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I should mention up front: this is not a "recommended" or "approved" approach—it is purely experimental at this stage, although I will probably report back later with more conclusive results, especially if they're positive. So I've complained for a long time about the regular bumps and bangs up front, especially when taking the Warrior on extended trips. I would set the torsion bars to spec, with proper ground clearance up front, and then do some test drives—all felt good. However, once we were loaded with all the humans/dogs/gear on a real excursion, the suspension travel would virtually disappear and we'd all take a beating on rough roads. (Basically, like some of you have probably already realized, our torsion bars were not up to the job anymore and couldn't really handle the weight of the fully-loaded rig. And, by the way, lifting the rear-end higher by increasing pressure in the air bags, only exacerbates this kind of front-end problem.) So, the only replacement option out there these days for a '90 chassis, far as I know, is the always-backordered, $300+ Sway-A-Way bars. Which I probably should go head and do, yes. Goshdarnit. But, instead I did a bit of research and measuring and then came across a set of these Gabriel #34073 Front Load Carrier shocks at a discount price of $72 for the set. The extended/compressed dimensions are correct, the mounts are pretty close (more about that in a sec), and they're typically used on big hoopties from the 70s-80s, along with Suburbans and a few GM cargo vans, etc. The biggest reason to use these, of course, is that they add a few hundred pounds of lift to the front-end, which should be enough to maintain some decent suspension travel on an overloaded Toyota pickup, in tandem with the existing t-bars. Installation was not very difficult: the shocks slide in just fine from below and the upper mounts bolt up per usual with nut + locknut. The only real hurdle was that the lower mounts have a slot that needs to be opened up (basically to match the lower mounts on, for example, the KYB KG5458 shocks that I installed about 6 years ago). Modifying the lower mounts took less than 5 minutes with a hacksaw, and I made sure all that was very securely bolted to the control arms by using thick fender washers on the bottom, Grade 10.9 M8 flange bolts, with locknuts on the top side. It's too soon to say if this is "a real fix," but the initial driving that I've done has felt good, with less swaying/rocking in turns and more general smoothness. We'll continue to test with some actual, fully-loaded-camping around southern MO this Fall. That's all for now...!

This question deals with the models before the factory 1 ton C&C was used. The door sticker on my '83 for the GVWR is from Sunrader - replacing the original Toyota sticker - and presumably adjusted for any upgrades they made to the suspension. (My original documentation mentions 2000lb overloader springs on the rear. ) The sticker gives a max load for front axle as 1800lbs. This seems high for a stock 1/2 ton. Does anyone know if changes or upgrades were made to the front suspensions on Sunraders? And what they may have done. FWIW, my is carrying 1600lbs on the front axle.

I have a 1983 Toyota Sunrader 21 ft RV. The rear is sagging quite low. I was told to do the following: * Get 4x4 leaf springs with extra leaf * Get blisten air shocks * Get airbags I am trying to save money so do not want custom made leaf springs. Can you please give me specific part #s, links, and costs please? Thanks! -Tim

hi everyone! TOTAL newbie here: I am going to apologize in advance for anything obtuse I say as I am not just learning about my rig from the ground up, but most vehicles in general (was never interested in the details until I got my rig.) SO- my issue is this: my Dolphin DRAGS so low that I scrape over every speedbump, every driveway, no matter how slowly or carefully I handle it/angle it. I would really love a little LIFT in my system so I can not only overcome this annoyance, but also feel more confident on uneven terrains and more longevity for everything on my undercarriage! Any suggestions on what would be the most affordable long term solution? Preferably not DIY at this point, as I would probably screw it up. Maybe after I learn a bit more, I will take on those projects!

Took our first trip of the year last week and noticed that the driver's side air bag would no longer hold pressure. Oklahoma roads were, uh, pretty iffy in the rural areas (sometimes, miles of nothing but gravel), and the banging/crashing did not make for a pleasant adventure. Tried the Slime® option a few times, with very limited success. Well, at least we got home okay, with no other difficulties... So, I got up under the back-end with a spray bottle of soap/water and quickly found a pinhole leak near the top of the bag. I contacted AirLift and explained the problem with my LoadLifter5000 system (P/N 57113), offered to provide photos and all that. Without any question, they took down my address and shipped me a new bag. "Limited Lifetime Warranty" means something after all! I now have the vehicle frame up on 3-ton jack stands and have PB Blaster-ed all the bolts/nuts in the vicinity of the bag, including the dreaded u-bolts. I am monkeying with a jack under the differential in order to raise the axle to the point where "tension is relieved from the leaf springs," as my repair manual puts it. Problem is, I can't tell when that happens. Can somebody provide a little insight here, please? I can move the axle up and down just fine, but at no point is it obvious that the leafs are no longer under tension. Don't really want to start pulling stuff apart until I get this straight. What am I missing? Here's a reference photo, so you can see where I'm at... literally. Thanks for any help!

I've been browsing posts regarding airbags. I understand the benefits for drooping rear ends. Can someone please describe how they affect ride? A prior owner installed two extra leaves on each side of my 1985 Sunrader. Drooping is not a problem, but I'm looking for a way to make the ride a little less stiff in back. Airbags? New or different shocks? Or just live with it?

Hello all, I've tried finding the right shocks for my Dolphin and I'm still not sure of exactly what the right models are. Can anyone recommend the correct KYB shocks I should get for my 1984 Dolphin? Thank you so much.

Greetings everyone, I just purchased a 86 Sunrader (21') and the front suspension is completely flat. I purchased a new prothane bushing (full) kit and new Blistein shocks for both front and back. But i can't seem to find anything about the actual springs. Can you purchase them? are they a complete pain to replace? I have heard people of taking them to a shop to be rearched / put in helper springs but i guess i'd rather have new ones put in if possible. I'm not above bringing it in but if i can do it myself i'd much rather do that. Thanks in advance!

Has anyone installed these? http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=19781 If so, how did your installation go? How are they holding up? Would you buy them again or go with another manufacturer?

We are at the halfway point on a round trip, 1000+ mile journey to Waco, TX. Engine and tranny are doing well (thank God), but I am dreading the drive home due to the extremely rough ride we experienced today. To explain... This is the first "major" trip we've done in our new-to-us, 20' Warrior, and I worked hard to try and make sure everything was shipshape for the drive (including a brand new set of Nexen SV-820s). We left from our home in SW Missouri and I was very happy with the smooth, relatively quiet highway ride, tested at up to 70mph. All this changed when we transitioned to the roads and highways of Arkansas and Oklahoma; it was virtually a nightmare of continual hammering and banging for many hours. I remember one curving entrance ramp in particular: every eight feet of the ramp was a new slab at a different height, like trying to drive down a massive staircase. My wife and I were both afraid that something might come apart in the process and, sure enough, when we arrived in Waco, we discovered that the oak face frame supporting the shelf our microwave sits on had torn apart from the buffeting. I hope that more damage doesn't surface in the AM, but I don't know... We're both stressed and exhausted. So, am I way off in left field on this? Does this sound like a normal cross-country trip in a Toy RV? I mean, what the hell?! (Btw, I'm running between 60-65mph, tires all near 55psi, air bags at 60psi.)

Hello all, I have a leaning Toyota Motorhome and have been doing some research to replace the rear leaf springs to fix the problem. I was under the truck looking for a part number and saw that there was a sticker on the top leaf that said Alcan Springs. Which mean I do not have OEM springs on my rig. That said I have a few questions: Did the body builder (Odyssey) replace the springs when they put the camper on? Or where the springs replaced by an owner due to failure or aftermarket improvements? Does anybody know the OEM part number for the rr springs? The trucks is a factory 1986 1 Ton 4X4 with a 22RTE. Does anyone have any suggestions for replacement springs? Note I do have Firestone Ride Rite helper bags on the back Thanks in advance for any feedback! Paul

I have a 1988 Toyota Dolphin that makes creaking noises when driving slow over medium to large bumps. The front end feels tight and tracks in a straight line when driven. The vehicle has 51,000 miles. New to vehicle and Chilton idiot book is no help. Possibly dry bushings? A kick in the correct direction would be appreciated.

My 1989 toyota Dolphin is riding way lower than it ever has. I know for a fact that the right air schock (where you would go to fill the air up) is popped or broken because when you fill it up you will immediately hear the air draining from the inside. As far as I know the left side is still in tact. So I am on the road and I noticed about 2-3 days ago that it suddenly was riding lower than it ever has been. The back rack is scraping even when going over a bump :/. I am very low on funds so I do not want to take it into a shop until I have a general idea of what's really going on. If any one has any insight or knowledge on this subject please get back to me, I appreciate it so much!!

What's everybody's take on this setup? http://m.ebay.com/itm/141098055682?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1 Seems reasonably priced, but how hard to install? Will it fit on my rig? And will it get my poor rear end off the ground enough to justify it? I've already knocked a hole in my black water tank from dragging my behind on something, probably backing out of an incline ( I know, poor choice but I'm new to this and still learning)... Any thoughts?

Hi, We are swapping our 5-lug rear axle, for the 6-lug one ton, but we do not have the correct size u-bolt or shock plate. Does anyone know the dimensions for these, or whether we can buy universal u-bolt. Thank you, any help is very appreciated! Brittney

I need to fix flat leaf spring going to install my self i have no airbags. what is my best options what size do i look for>1987 1ton dually> 1.junk yard leaf springs 2.helper springs <not sure if would help old springs> 3.new springs what size and how many each side