Rebecca K

@lambchop27, thank you SO much for that information! I hadn't gotten that far in your blog yet. It's obviously the "best" idea not to put anything on the backs on the Toys, but it seems that it's possible with the right structuring. "Right" being the key word. Your description is fantastically clear and helpful. We'll be sure to carry out our plan to put some extra supports running from the truck frame back to the bumper before we do anything at all. The previous owner had a flat carrier with a generator on the back hitch, and we drove that back across the country from Cali, so we should be checking for damage, too, I imagine. (Though, if I'm really really lucky, the previous owner did something to beef her up already!) Just waiting for the wicked New York weather to let up so that I don't get cranky while poking around underneath. Warm wishes to you and yours!

@cptmiker How did it work out? How's your towing going? We're in the middle of this great debate ourselves and trying to gather as much info as possible! Thanks in advance.

Hey @hunkaman , what did you decide to do? We are looking at the possibility of buying a little trailer and putting our motorcycle in there, maxing out around 1200lbs, so we'd be in a similar boat with our 91 Warrior. Would love to hear what you ended up doing or not doing to help our decision making process!

@lambchop27Thank you for keeping this blog! We have a sister Winnie Warrior, 91 as well, and are just suiting her up for at least 6 months of living and exploring once we sell our home in New York. I see that you used the hitch to carry some items on the back, and I wondered if you could give me an estimate of how much weight that was in total, including the weight of the cage? We are considering pulling a light trailer with a 400lb motorcycle, amongst a few other items, but with the trailer weight distribution, it would probably put up to 100lbs of pressure on the back at any given time. Trailer-pulling with a Toy is very controversial, I know!, but we want to be sure we do it right if we decide it's safe. We have been looking into whether or not we need to take measures to sure up the chassis, and having folks like you who did some boots-on-the-ground testing (and what a long test you did!) is really helpful. Thank you in advance!

Well, it's far from "like new" but it wasn't going to get there after that damage and a bit of a rushed, saturated peel-back. We'll do a "proper" fix when we decide to tackle the whole ceiling and wallpaper business with new material, replacing what needs replacing underneath, but I'm pleased with the band-aid. Thanks again for the tips! (Avoided spray adhesive on my personal self in exchange for looking ridiculous. Worth it.)

@neubie Thank you! We caught the leak in time to save the ply (thank goodness). The smoking gun was a wet shoe under the L-shaped dinette. If we weren't heading out for another vacation and in need of that pair of hiking boots, I don't think we would've caught it in time! I'll follow up and let everyone know how my trials turned out. Again, big thanks for the time and thoughts. I'm surprising the other half with a mini trip this weekend. We're planning on moving into our Toy once our house/bed and breakfast sells, but that timeline is vague, and so I figure that one weekend away to scratch the itch will be a nice anniversary present. It'll be nicer without the ceiling brushing our hair every time we walk by.

Hey all, Thank you for your replies! I will be attaching the square foot or two of peeled back wallpaper to the plywood ceiling. Unless I'm missing something, there's no foam involved at any stage. I don't know if this effects your recommendations. So far, I'm leaning towards the spray adhesive.

@neubie or anyone else: what type of glue do you use when fixing areas of "wall paper" (mostly ceiling, a few wall corners) that have delaminated? We had some water come in over the winter and peeled back areas to let her dry out (with the assistance of heaters, dehumidifiers, and keen eyes and noses searching for mold), but now it's time to close these little areas back up. Do I generously paint on wood glue, press some pieces of wood flat against the areas, and hold them tight with tension rods until they're dried? Or is there a better glue/trick for the job? Thank you in advance!

Hey everyone, I'm bringing this up again! We just hauled a 1990 Toyota Winnebago Warrior (20 ft) back from Cali and want to keep her looking good in New York. Has anyone found the Holy Grail of covers? Tarps make me nervous for scratching. We'll be storing it in a windy area. Willing to spend what it takes for a good, durable, fitted item. I was looking at these: https://www.nationalrvcovers.com/expedition-rv-covers/Class--C--RV/20.html https://www.rvautoparts.com/64812-Adco-Covers-RV-Cover-For-Class-C-Motorhome_p_22527.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA15vTBRAHEiwA7Snfc7EKr45aTUnn-9tLixN_STWAYn4YC-1zShiDXe5LGMIVYgzU8KnLyBoCD8UQAvD_BwE (The photo is wrong for the listing but the part number is correct, see this link: http://www.adcoprod.com/Fit-Finder#cover198 ) Any input is greatly appreciated. We couldn't have had any more fun than we did on our two-week trip across the states in Mabel, and look forward to future adventures! Cheers, Rebecca

Thanks, WME and Derek! I'm definitely a "better safe than sorry" kind of gal, so we'll surely heed your advice. I will get one of the blow-out tools regardless, and we can see how adventurous we are feeling. It would be nice to be able to cook while we make our way back across (and do dishes and whatnot- disposables are a pet peeve, though I acknowledge their convenience). This could be creatively achieved with water jugs though, as long as I can use the grey and black tanks with some anti-freeze in them. Re: the tires- they look like they have some good tread and life in them (not cracking) from photos, but we'll be sure to be sure. The previous owner really did a lot to her. Heading to Cali, he put a very powerful AC unit in. Not so helpful with this NY issue though.

Hello, new friends! We are extremely excited to join the world of Toyota RV owners after purchasing a sharp-looking 1990 (Micro?) Warrior in southern Cali. She's an eBay purchase, so please cross your fingers for us as we fly out to pick her up early next month. Everything seemed very solid based on videos, conversations, Carfax, receipts, etc., as the previous owner had dumped a lot of money into her and then had a sudden change of life plans. He just drove her from VA to CA a few months ago. I have spent (too much) time reading through the forums here, and thank many of you for your previous posts, as the shared experience has already been helpful. We will now: be sure to take her right to an RV mechanic to have her looked over before the cross-country haul (if anyone has a recommendation for a good one between San Diego and LA, I'm all ears!); I have good roadside assistance recommendations; dumping how-tos; and so much more. Any general "first timer" advice is more than welcome though! We will be hugging the southern border as we drive home to NY, aiming to stay in above-freezing temps for our own happiness' sake (winter vacation is better when you're escaping the winter), but while I am an outdoors-woman and thus no stranger to the cold and not worried about keeping myself warm in 25-35 degree temperatures, as the owner of an 1850 Victorian home which had an unfortunate attic draft + exposed copper pipe situation one winter, I do not want to go down that road again with my new Toy. You all have given great insulation advice, which we will take. I've read about a dozen conversations that touch upon the matter, but they didn't quite hit home for me, so I'm hoping to reach out for more specifics: - Can we have the whole rig's plumbing running as normal in below-freezing temps, as long as we heat it properly? Or are there pipes close to the exterior that will freeze, regardless, and need to be drained and not used? - If the answer to the above is "Yes, proceed as normal if you are heating!" as I hope and suspect, I wonder, if we are driving with temperatures in the 30's (figure a lower wind chill), should the heat (furnace or, I'm guessing because the battery is being charged, a portable heater) in the cabin be on during the drive to protect the pipes? - Do I still dump a bit of antifreeze down the poop-chute and sink after emptying black and grey, for good measure? My husband keeps mentioning heating tape for the pipes, but it seems inappropriate and I'd really like to avoid all of that complication, though I'd rather do this correctly than to be fixing broken pipes and the consequences of leaks in the springtime. It is our plan to hang in warm-ish climates until we hit the east coast, and then have her professionally winterized (we'll learn how to do it ourselves next autumn, I'm not feeling like taking a chance and sweating it all winter) in north Florida/southern Georgia before driving her briskly back north to hang tight as we wrap up our matters at home for the rest of the winter. Thank you in advance for any and all thoughts on this matter and any others! We're planning on hitting Southern California on the 5th, getting sorted, and then heading along the southern border, so if you see us, come grab a drink and tell us what we don't know. All the best, Rebecca