Boots

Hi Lisa, I am familiar with your particular model, but now I own a newer model. I have a Parallax 6300 charger unit in my unit which provides charges the battery when it is plugged in. I have attached a PDF file with the 6300 series manual. You say you have an "electrical problem "no electric power" so I am assuming you are experiencing an AC power problem (commonly refered to as "house hold power); this power is supplied when you plug the cable into the campsite outlet. It is usually 120 volts AC at 15 amps. if this is the case, you need to locate and test the single AC circuit breaker - In my original rig, it was located on a panel next to the furnace; it was a typical looking 20 AC circuit breaker and is there to protect the power cable and prevent nusiance tripping. The electrical power comes into the rig from the cable, is feed into this 20 amp circuit breaker and then is distributed to Parallax power center and charger. If nothing is on, it is likely because of the following, the power cable is faulty, the connecting plug is faulty (or wired incorrectly), the 20 amp circuit breaker is faulty or worn out, some part of the AC power circuit wiring has come loose (wires not connected) - all of these require some knowledge of working on electrical systems; if you are unfamiliar with this call an electrical (and more specifically an RV technician who is certified to work on AC in RV's) and he may help. Hope this helps. OwnerOperatorManual6300Series.pdf

Hi, There are a number of ways to find and fix 12 volt wiring, if you don't already own one, then first thing is to purchase a simple 12 volt test light. I am using a "INNOVA" Equus Model 3410" which is a bit fancier than the old ones but has additional features that I found to be surprisingly handy. Alternaturnately, you can purchase a "signal injector test kit (these can be expensive) and then begin the process of testing and tracing the wiring. The first tool proves whether or not you have power and/or a ground. The second tool is attached to the (suspect) wire and when activated you use the tracer to follow the wires that may be hidden in the walls. With a good quality tracer kit, you can come within a few inches of where the wire is. One other advantage of the tracer is that if the wire is broken (has become disconnected) you can trace the wire to that point where the disconnected wire is. One other point, I recently had a similiar problem on Spirit and I checked the fuses and lo and behold I had a blown fuse! I never found the reason for the fuse going, and it hasn't occured since, so I can only say check which fuse powers the outside clearance lights and see if that is the problem. I would be curious to hear what Led's you bought, model numbers and if you noticed any decrease in power consumption. Regards Brian Email me

Like I said the trick to keeping your transmission happy is to keep the fluid in the manufacturer's operating temperature range. Here is a typical comment from Yahoo auto blog; It is a partial quote and is by no means authouritative or complete, but it illustrates the point " Why Atf Wears Out An automatic transmission creates a lot of internal heat through friction: the friction of the fluid churning inside the torque converter, friction created when the clutch plates engage, and the normal friction created by gears and bearings carrying their loads. It doesn't take long for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to heat up once the vehicle is in motion. Normal driving will raise fluid temperatures to 175 degrees F., which is the usual temperature range at which most fluids are designed to operate. If fluid temperatures can be held to 175 degrees F., ATF will last almost indefinitely -- say up to 100,000 miles. But if the fluid temperature goes much higher, the life of the fluid begins to plummet. The problem is even normal driving can push fluid temperatures well beyond safe limits. And once that happens, the trouble begins. At elevated operating temperatures, ATF oxidizes, turns brown and takes on a smell like burnt toast. As heat destroys the fluid's lubricating qualities and friction characteristics, varnish begins to form on internal parts (such as the valve body) which interferes with the operation of the transmission. If the temperature gets above 250 degrees F., rubber seals begin to harden, which leads to leaks and pressure losses. At higher temperatures the transmission begins to slip, which only aggravates overheating even more. Eventually the clutches burn out and the transmission calls it quits. The only way to repair the damage now is with an overhaul -- a job which can easily run upwards of $1500 on a late model front-wheel drive car or minivan. As a rule of thumb, every 20 degree increase in operating temperature above 175 degrees F. cuts the life of the fluid in half! At 195 degrees F., for instance, fluid life is reduced to 50,000 miles. At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles. At 240 degrees F., the fluid won't go much over 10,000 miles. Add another 20 degrees, and life expectancy drops to 5,000 miles. Go to 295 or 300 degrees F., and 1,000 to 1,500 miles is about all you'll get before the transmission burns up. If you think this is propaganda put forth by the suppliers of ATF to sell more fluid, think again. According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced. On most vehicles, the automatic transmission fluid is cooled by a small heat exchanger inside the bottom or end tank of the radiator. Hot ATF from the transmission circulates through a short loop of pipe and is thus "cooled." Cooling is a relative term here, however, because the radiator itself may be running at anywhere from 180 to 220 degrees F.! Tests have shown that the typical original equipment oil cooler is marginal at best. ATF that enters the radiator cooler at 300 degrees F. leaves at 240 to 270 degrees F., which is only a 10 to 20% drop in temperature, and is nowhere good enough for extended fluid life. Any number of things can push ATF temperatures beyond the system's ability to maintain safe limits: towing a trailer, mountain driving, driving at sustained high speeds during hot weather, stop-and-go driving in city traffic, "rocking" an automatic transmission from drive to reverse to free a tire from mud or snow, etc. Problems in the cooling system itself such as a low coolant level, a defective cooling fan, fan clutch, thermostat or water pump, an obstructed radiator, etc., will also diminish ATF cooling efficiency. In some cases, transmission overheating can even lead to engine coolant overheating! That's why there's a good demand for auxiliary add-on transmission coolers." Brian

Hi I have a 92 Toy and it is Japanese made, and I think it has been in Canada for all of its life. Look at the door plate and see if one of the number(s) start with a "J" this means it was manufactured in Japan. I have no problems with my rig in British Columbia. Cheers Brian

Hi Recently did a transmission oil change (92 V6) and I was offered ( by one of the oil change shops) - one of two methods, drain the pan or flush. I looked at the cost and the convience of both and decided that the flush is the better option. My reasoning is simple, the manufacturer gives you the operating life of the fluid. They do not say change on 2 litres out fourteen litres, and I can understand this reasoning. Why would you want to continue to use 85% old oil in your transmission? If the oil fails, then you have an expensive and probably an inconvienent transmission failure. You save approximately 100.00 dollars and risk 1500.00 - not to mention the possibility of a ruined vacation. Brian

Hi Looks like sound advise, but I would like to add one note to this. Transmission oil is designed for a certain amount of use (abuse) and like all products has certain specifications and conditions that affect its performance. One issue that I do not see here is the operating temperature of the transmission oil. "Normal operating temperatures" for a transmission means that if the oil temperature stays below a certain temperature, then the fluid will continue to operate properly for the recommended period; howver, if the temperature rises up to its maximum range, then their is a correspondingly sharp drop in driving distance that can have dramtic affects on the transmission (read failure) - since most transmissions do not have a oil temperature guage, caution is to be exercised when transmission oil is be changed out. I personally change out all of my transmission oil once per year, and am about to install a temperature guage. The amount of money saved is negilable compared to rebuilding or replacing a transmission. Cheers Brian

Hi, I had an 84 Toy with that engine and transmission and it is underpowered. Having said that this is one tough engine and transmission and unless some tests the engine for compression problems, or timing or other similiar problems, you might have to live with the performance. Having said that you did not mention if this is a new event; where you in the past you did not experience this kind of problem. I now have a six cylinder 3.0 litre toy and the difference is very different and joyful.

Hi I'am not an expert on these matters, however, I would check to see if you have sufficient fuel in your tank, and that all propane tank fuel valves are opened fully, up to and including the heater and furnace. In both cases (the hot water tank and the forced air heater) the start up and operation of these devices are not producing heat, my first impression is that there is no fuel flowing to these appliances. In the case of the hot water tank, you normally depress and hold the gas valve in (when it is positioned in the "pilot" mode) and then light the pilot light; if the pilot light ignites and a small blue flame appears, keep depressing the gas valve for approximately 30 to 45 secounds, and then release the gas valve. If the pilot light stays on then move the gas valve to the "on" position and the system should go into action, with the burner starting to heat the water in the tank. If, when you "release" the gas valve in the pilot position and the pilot goes out, then the chances are that the thermopile coupler is not functioning. This is the safety device, that prevents propane fuel from flowing into the combustion chamber and eventually exploding. This is a standard device on many appliances (refrigerators, furnances, stoves and hot water heaters) and is relatively easy to replace, however, there may be a requirement in your state law that you are not licensed to work on these appliances or your vehicle insurer might not insure your vehicle if you have worked on it, something for you to check into for your own piece of mind. With the furnace, usually there is no requirement for you to "start" anything, there is an electric ignitor with a safety device to ensure that the pilot light started and stayed on, and after a short wait the furnace should start up and begin to produce heat. Again, if the pilot fails to stay on, the electrical circuit will prevent the flow of fuel into the combustion chamber. My guess on the furnance is that all of the devices are powered by 12 volts, and when the AC (120 volt) power is plugged in there is a 120 volt AC to 12 volt DC convertor that supplies the DC voltage to all of the furnace electrics. That way there is no need to use paralell electrical circuits when using different power services. Hope this helps regards Brian