jjrbus

Now that you bring it up, people put a 6 lug on what started life as a single rear wheel 5 lug, with no change out of computer. 4 vs 6 but have not heard of anything bad happening?

My OE Dometic the label is under the inside cover.

I can only speak for myself, they are too expensive for what you are getting. I have never heard a RV roof unit with an acceptable noise level. Except for the Polar Cub at 9000 btu which has many noise complaints the smallest roof air is 11,000 btu which I believe is too large for my Toyota. I notice some of the Toys originally came with an 8000 btu roof air, which has been discontinued. I also want to run my RV with a 2000 watt Honda generator, the Honda will run an 8000 btu AC dependably under all conditions or would run a 9k inverter mini split with no problem. The 9k inverter mini modulates, will run between 2000 and 11000 btu, depending on conditions.

There seems to be more and better options around the world for RV cooling than in the US. A window ac for under $300 seems like it would be the best way to go. I like the mini's and that is what I have in my house, but the inverter mini's are more computer than AC and if an issue comes up it will likely not be a simple or cheap fix! https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=1.5+kw+to+but About $1200 us for 5k btu!

Some duct tape, cardboard and a scrap lumber bracket to test. Did not drive anyplace like this, only to experiment with AC size. I had read enough on the net to know the 5 or 6k window unit would not be large enough, so went directly to the 8k.

45-60 inside should be giving good results inside? My 11k roof air will cool the toy down in no time, but is putting out 350 cubic foot a minute on high fan which is a lot of air. The 8k takes some time to cool it down as it has smaller capacity and puts out less air per minute. I would expect a mini to take some time to get down to the temperature I wanted. I would check for large air leaks, such as gasket missing on entrance door or some such thing. Also opening a roof vent makes initial cooling go faster, hot air rises and goes out while cool air fills in below. I know of no way to know difference in performance for one AC to another other than put it in window and see what happens. Plus we do not know if the 10K is some arbitrary # or something made up. For me personally in FL I think 10k would betoo big, it would be fine during the heat of the day, but would not run enough to keep humidity down at night. That is only my opinion and worth what you are paying for it : )

Should be a noticeable difference with it sitting out. Measure the Delta T, the temp of the air inside the RV vs the temp of the air coming out of the inside unit.

I looked all over America for an old 8k roof air. They are not made anymore. Should have said I have an 8k window unit mounted in the bathroom window. Not visually appealing but I would rather be cool than look cool. There is more outside with box for generator and metal frame to support AC.

Not an AC guy but have installed some mini's and yours installed in that compartment does not look like any of the install specs in the manuals. They need to move large volumes of air and in an enclosed space are not going to do it! Did a bit of experimenting with my 93 Sea Breeze and 8000 btu seems to be the best compromise. Small enough that a 2000 watt gen set will run it dependably and just adequate cooling, sitting in full sun, no shade in upper 90's, very high humidity weather in Florida. The 8k is just keeping up temp wise, just under 80, but in doing so is keeping humidity down which makes it seem much cooler. The portable minis were getting horrible reviews not that long ago, now they have good reviews. That is rather odd. 73% giving it a bad review! https://www.amazon.com/P800-F001B-Rollicool-Conditioner-Dehumidify/product-reviews/B0745L255K/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews

It was not intelligence, knowledge, skill or resourcefulness. A Samaritan stopped and had an idea what was wrong or I might still be there!

I certainly have had a few issues on the road, that some would call for a tow. But I fixed them. It is great to be self sufficient. I do not carry a bunch of spare parts. Duct tape, wire, a small selection of tools and jack. I keep my vehicles up so have never had an issue. I did want to call for a tow in Hells Canyon that time, but no cell phone service and then the Sheriff said he had no idea where he could get a tow truck from! It never clicked to tow to an auto parts stores, super idea. Thanks for pointing that out.

The issue I have with towing service is unless you are out of gas, locked out or have a flat tire they always want to tow. I do not want to be taken to an unknown shop and be at their mercy.

If you are only traveling a short distance from home and know the local towing guy, the ERS ryder could be ideal. For my car and truck that almost never go more than 100 miles from home I only use the State Farm ERS ryder. I can find a tow truck or a locksmith or whatever I need and know where I want my vehicle towed and do not need help with that. The only drawback is I pay upfront and get reimbursed by State Farm.

If I had the room for the the inside unit, I would install a mini in a heartbeat. But I do have all the tools and knowledge for a proper install, which really is a big deal. A 9k mini would be perfect size, nice and quiet and would run on a 2000 watt genset with no issue. The heat pump minis modulate and can supply from 2000 to 11,000 btu of cooling.

The $249 is the online price for their full package with all the bells and whistles. I am only interested in basic towing and do not understand why they do not show that option on their website?

First no towing company owns any equipment. I am not sure about right now but Good Sam did not even have call centers and subbed out to other companys. All towing is subbed out to towing companys. So if a towing company says they will tow you from parks. But there is no towing company in the area that will go into parks then you are on your own. Good Sam Roadside Assistance would cover you for roadside assistance and towing on any improved road - such as Interstate highways, state, county, local, or improved forest service roads. In addition, GSRA covers you anywhere on your personally owned property. Your and my opinion and the tow company and GS opinion of what an improved forest service road is may all be different. I am biased as I have seen too many GS members have all kinds of ridiculous issues and would not take it for free. I called Coach net and talked to Carrie, if you call her you can get basic towing for $129 1st year and then $109 a year after that. 877 801-0333 choose option 2 and then extension 5 for Carrie. You can of course choose any level of service you want. I also asked about forest service roads and she stated that as long as it is a maintained road they will service you. No service will be perfect or be trouble free and make everyone happy, but Coach net is about as good as it gets, my opinion of course and worth what you are paying for it.

Hmm, $249 year? I'm paying I believe $99 year. $249 is way more than I would pay and would only use the State Farm ERS ryder if I had to pay that much. I could be wrong on this, I believe that no towing company will go off paved roads. AAA does not guarantee the availability of repair facilities within the towing area. Vehicles intentionally driven into areas that are dangerous or inadvisable for regular passenger car travel (beaches, fields, construction sites, unpaved roads, etc.) will not be rendered service. The ERS ryder on my State Farm policy is about $10 year. There is no 800 # to call, I have to find my own tow truck and repair facility. I have to pay for service out of my pocket and be reimbursed. I carry both because the ryder is dirt cheap and I have double coverage. Yes a good Samaritan, not Good Samaritan company. Before sending your money Google "Good Sam towing complaints" or any company you decide to sign up with. So you go in with eyes wide open. I would also look at other RV forums where you will get more input.

Hmmmm, had a fuel pump go in Hell;s canyon, no cell phone service! Sheriff told me he had no idea where they would get a tow truck. Good Samaritan saved the day by banging on tank while I started the Toy. I carry ERS ryder on my car and truck as I do not need an 800 # to call or free maps and trip tics. On my Toy I have the ERS ryder and Coach net. I consider Coach net the premium service and If I have a problem with my Toy I do not want to screw around with amateurs.

Engine control modual, takes signals from various componants and sends signals back to the engine and transmission. Not being a mechanic it was one of the worst diagnosing jobs I have ever done. Compounded by people saying the ECM never goes bad. Being unable to find a problem out of desperation I sent the ECM in for testing and it was the issue. Symptoms can vary widely, mine would just plain not start.

My 93 Sea Breeze needed TLC, so I did everything, the Pro Thane kit, all new steering components, tie rod ends and such, KYB shocks, front end alignment and it went from wandering all over the road to slot car! All the bushings were from sorta ok to absolutely destroyed. I would use Energy Suspension instead of Prothane if I did it again, the regular kit does not have the right parts for the 1 ton. at least Energy Suspension says it is not for the one ton, instead of being in the middle of a job and finding out I did not have the right parts!

Ouch! The dual rear wheel ECM are hard to find. We had a discussion about this one time and the consensus was that other ECM's would work. I have only heard of 1 person saying they had done it. The only thing that I can think of that might be an issue is cable drive speedometer vs electronic. The electronic speedometer sends a signal to the ECM which might cause an issue, I am only guessing at this. I do not know what years were cable vs electronic? Googled part # this came up https://store.allcomputerresources.com/1991-toyota-truck-89661-35560-pcm-ecm-ecu-engine-computer.html

Google Toyota ECM rebuilders, brings up a long list of possibilities.

Can't be fixed? Hmmm, there are various ECM rebuilders online, 3 years ago I sent mine to I think Chicago to be repaired and have read about others sending to various places. Sorry do not remember names. Slightly different #, I think yours has a cable driven speedometer vs my electronic drive speedometer.

I seem to recall the pull handle shaft being threaded for the handle, so makes sense that the gate valve end is threaded also. So pulling on the bolt might open the valve. Just don't try it in the driveway!

I used to be anal about inflating duallys to the exact same pressure. Almost bought a dual head inflator so both tires would be the same. Then I got a 4 tire pressure monitor and found that the pressures are all over the chart, the tire in the sun vs the one that is shaded can be way higher! The tires on the shaded side are always lower psi than the ones in the sun. The monitor did alert me of a leaking inner dual on a trip, which I would not have noticed, so maybe saved me a tire? Cheap monitor system lasted me about a year. 65 psi may be generally accepted somewhere but not on my Toy. Tire place put 65 psi in mine and on the way home thought I was going to jar my teeth loose or hurt my back, like riding on bowling balls! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-gPwNZgDGA