Ctgriffi

I also enjoyed the expertise provided by the user in question, however... Linda's position is completely valid in my view, and I support it. I greatly value experience, knowledge and accuracy, but they do not trump civility, courtesy, and humility. Too many conversations seemed to devolve into personal disagreements and nearly useless discussion of minutiae, while the OP and his/her concerns were sidelined. But, still not the kind of outcome that anybody hopes for. "It is what it is."

Actually, it turned out to be a 20" screen, and I feel like it's a really great fit. Love having the built-in DVD as well, since having wifi (or even a cell signal) is not a given at some of the parks we've visited. I used this little mount on Amazon to hang it on the wall—seems very sturdy (I recommend you use all the screw holes) and gives you a reasonable amount of left-right and up-down motion. I put a combo 12V/USB outlet right under it, and it's really a good setup for the road or camping. We also keep a phone-to-hdmi adapter attached to the TV, so we can watch Netflix/Amazon when wifi (or adequate cell signal) is available. Both of those services, by the way, now offer the option to download content onto their apps, so you won't even need to use wifi or cell data, if you plan ahead. I don't have a great photo of this setup right now, but this one should give you a decent idea of where we mounted ours (centered between the kitchen sink and entry door).

Exactly right—EGR valve was causing all the trouble. I pulled it off and ended up making a steel plate to cap the opening on the plenum. Motor idles near perfect now, pulls strong and smooth up to highway speed with no hesitation. Good stuff, thank you, Maineah!

Well, to answer my own question: Sounds like the dust boot is not mandatory and lots of people run these without 'em. Moving on...

I just picked up these KYB KG5458 shocks based on some earlier research and the fact that they're listed here on shockwarehouse.com as an ideal replacement. My original shocks are Toyota OEM of course, and as you can see the dimensions on new-versus-old look pretty similar (OEM is a bit shorter because I lopped off the top during removal) . However, the KYBs have no dirt/debris cover for the rod itself—is that a concern? Appreciate any quick help, guys/gals!

Did some fuel system cleaning and cleaned the TB and throttle valve. Replaced fuel filter and also dist. cap and rotor (w/Toyota parts). Verified idle speed and timing. No improvement that I can see; still noticeable missing/hesitation under acceleration. Guess I'll doublecheck the PCV valve and hose too, like Dan mentioned (thanks!).

Thanks, everyone. HG was done years ago as part of the special service campaign (I verified this w/Toyota before buying the Warrior). No CEL's on the dash. It hasn't been driven much in the last year because it was needing a major cabover repair. I did start it up and run it for 10-15min, every few weeks. I think I will do a fuel system cleaning with the 3M kit, which has worked well for me on other vehicles, and see if that helps at all. And, yes, I need to plan on the valve adjustment in the near future (did that job on my Celica's 5SFE a few years back, so I have some idea what's involved).

I haven't had a chance to dig into this much yet, but I'm just looking for some likely problem areas. This 3.0 is in my 91 Warrior with 83K miles, which I've owned for two years. I do not know if the scheduled valve adjustment was ever done (but I doubt it). Last year, I did the T-belt, water pump, and installed new plugs and wireset, and it drove fine after that. Basically, the last few times I've taken it out, there's initially been a lot of "missing" and hesitation so that it's pretty difficult to get up to speed. Then, after awhile, things seem to improve. Last weekend, we drove for about 10 miles at around 40-50mph while the problem continued; then, I got on I-44 (crossing my fingers) and seemed to do pretty well after that—drove for the next hour at 65mph+ without much difficulty and no hesitation. What's this sound like to you?

I would agree with your description, Hannah. Remove the frames, reapply the butyl tape (make sure you have plenty at the corners), screw the frames back together and you should be good. For extra insurance, you can also caulk around the window exterior, but it probably won't be necessary if the butyl tape is done right.

They can be very loud and disruptive, I agree. My usage has never been, and never will be, running a generator in the middle of a campground—that's not what it's intended for, by any means. I use mine for 1) keeping the coach cool while trucking down the road 2) occasional power needs when hanging out in a public parking lot (very rarely) and 3) running my Worx chainsaw on the back of my 3 acre lot. It's the Wen 3500, big photo at the top of this thread...

Actually, my unit only has one 115V socket, which is fed by just the one hot leg, so I don't think that would work. I guess that solution would work on other setups, as long as the two 115v outlets aren't 180º out of phase, with respect to each other (yes?).

Hmm, maybe I will try it after all, although it still sounds like the AVR issue could be a problem (something mentioned in part 2/3 of the video I mentioned above).

Found this YT video with a HF generator that looks very close to mine, in terms of nearly exact wiring, etc. Some good information, but not exactly a clear, definitive solution to the problem. Sounds like the voltage control unit (AVR in the above chart) creates a problem because it's designed to read a specific control voltage, which will change a great deal, once you've wired both coils up in parallel to maximize amperage. Hmm... might just have to set this little project aside, for now.

This thread of mine is kind of old, but I had a follow-up question for any electrical gurus out there: I'm still happy with this little gen and have used it a few times on the road, with good results. Still, I'm pretty sure that, since I'm connecting to it through the L14-30 socket, I'm only getting half of the potential amperage. Basically, I've got a heavy-duty 10-3 cord running from the RV panel to the generator, and the twist-lock plug is wired up ground-to-ground, neutral-to-neutral, and hot to X (see top-right of diagram). So, the other hot leg is currently unused. How might I go about rewiring this setup in order to potentially use all ~25 amps?

At 55mph?

(Sorry, lost track of this thread, I guess.) I actually did keep the U, yes. Mine's not all that uncomfortable, although I do have a topper across the entire bed that helps. At some point, I guess I might buy a good memory foam mattress and deconstruct/replace the entire thing up there. I did remove the covers to wash 'em, and the original foam pieces are not too shabby. I know a lot of people just build right over the whole thing, but my wife and I like it... when it's flipped up and out of the way, it's much easier to traverse between cab/coach while chugging down the road (like, if one of us is thirsty or needs an emergency sandwich!). It's still not easy for a big guy closing on 40 years old, however—I'm sure I wouldn't even attempt if I were pushing 50 or more.

Finally got them working again but I'm not 100% sure how/why. It looks like maybe that 15A fuse was bad after all, although it looked fine and was tested over and over on my meter (?). The rear light fixtures are original Bargman 84s, and there is something strange about the center light (turn signal) bulbs on each fixture: the RH light takes a two filament bulb, while the LH takes a standard one filament bulb. At first I thought the wrong bulb was in one of them, but they actually have different sockets. Why are these different? Anyone?

Update: Well, the fuse is definitely fine, and the taillight relay is also good—clicks and sends voltage to the fuseholder just fine. But, nothing seems to make it to the tail or clearance lights...

I wonder if Alfin ever got these working again... ? I'm having the same problem right now—taillights, front/rear clearance lights, and bulbs that illuminate the speedo are all dead and used to come on when the headlight control was turned to the first indent. Fuse tested fine, but I am concerned about the what I believe is the 3-pin taillight relay: Denso 90987-01003. It was pretty hot when I pulled it out. Is there a test procedure for these things? After I yanked it, I found 72.6 Ohms between pins 1-2 and nothing between 1-3 or 2-3. From the drawing above and the comments, it sounds like IF the relay is working, there would be voltage at the 15A taillight fuse, so maybe I need to verify that. Appreciate any ideas!

Finally got this project done, so we could do a little trip this weekend. Photos show some of my prep work on a great piece of 1/2" ply I found at Meek's, along with our eventual campsite at "Shadow Rock Park," Forsyth MO.

Cool, think I've got it all squared away, and it seems to be working great. Appreciate the help. Btw,I ended up ditching the lower case completely because everything was riveted in there, and I don't have time for that!

Well, so I did a bit of research. Here's what I found (feel free to correct/expand)... Large red wire connects to: + lug on converter Large blue wire connects to: + lug on converter Large white wire connects to: - lug on converter Small black wire connects to: + wire on converter AC plug Small white wire connects to: - wire on converter AC plug So, the large blue and red wires both carry 12V+. In the original system, one was "filtered" voltage, one was not. In the PowerMax, I think, all voltage supplied through the positive lug is filtered, so the red and blue wires can be jumpered together—that way, all circuits get filtered voltage. (Does this sound correct?)

I'm in the middle of almost exactly this same scenario right now, so I was excited to find the write-up and the photos. But... I could still use a little more detail, if possible. Could someone fill in the blanks below explaining the exact connections to the PowerMax, please? Much appreciated. My Magnatek has three large gauge wires coming down to the converter/charger on the right-hand side: red, blue, and white. On the left-hand side, there are two smaller gauge wires: black and white. Large red wire connects to: ________ Large blue wire connects to: ________ Large white wire connects to: ________ Small black wire connects to: ________ Small white wire connects to: ________

Appreciate the info. What's the typical lifespan on those 27 and 29 sizes, in your experience?

Well, the list of needed repairs continues to mount—arghh... when will I be able to start actually using this RV again?! So, yesterday, I discovered that my Walmart Group 29 Marine Battery is registering <4.0 volts; I'm pretty much considering that thing toast... I can't imagine it would charge up again at this point (?). It is two years old, on the dot, and has been consistently abused, I assume, by the original Magnatek 6300 system in my Warrior. I have ordered a new Powermax converter/charger to upgrade my system, which I hope will increase the longevity of my replacement coach battery. My Question: Anyone found a good deal lately on a deep cycle battery that they'd like to recommend? Wally-World still the best bet for a sub-$200 replacement?