turtle

Motor mounts for the V6 and the 4 cyl diesel are going to be completely different. If you got a 1/2 cut you can cut off the donor mounts and weld them onto your frame (maybe). Otherwise it will be a ground up fabrication on the engine (and maybe trans) mounts. U-channel steel welded from the original frame rail back to the bumper. Something like this should be done by a qualified welder who is familiar with hitch design. You have a lot of "things" back there to avoid such as the propane tank and the waste tanks. Make sure that who ever does the welding uses a shield between their torch and the coach tanks so that you do not have to replace them once they are finished with the hitch

From your use of the term Hilux I assume that you are not from the US? Slide in campers can be found to fit import/Toyota trucks. The most notable are the old (70's vintage) Sunrader slid in units. These are rather hard to find but when you do find them they are not too expensive. I am not sure if Chinook made a slide in. All that I have seen are frame mounted type (bed replacement backs) but I have not seen everything by any stretch of the imagination

Depending on where the rip is you can use either standard automotive products (bondo) or replace the Filon panel (if it is a small lower panel). A photo would go a long way in helping understand what you need to do

I am VERY happy with my V6 shorty. Once I get the diff re-geared I will be even happier.

Those have been up for a while. They are late model and will fit only on the 1 ton front rotors like the ones on my 1991 http://www.toymike.com/sunrader/pics/frontRimAdaptor2.jpg If you look closely you will see that they are 6 to 6 not 5 to 6

The first thing you should do is go over the coach and truck chassis to make sure that it is sound and worth the time and effort to expend the money on a replacement axle. Go through the coach body and poke at the ceiling around the vents (both the air and sewer vents) to see if there are any "soft spots". Poke around all the windows. remove the cushions from the overhead and look at the flooring. Open all of the overhead cabinets and poke at the walls near the roof inside of them. When I say poke around I mean stuff your fingers at the walls and ceilings. You should NOT feel any soft spots, if you do there is structural damage under the paneling and depending on how sever the damage the cost to repair can exceed the purchase price of your vehicle (unless you can strip the interior, rebuild the wall/ceiling interior walls, and replace the interior yourself). You are going to find some problems unless the coach was kept inside of a garage all of its 24 years of existence. If it is not severe/terminal you can move on to a mechanical evaluation. Suspension wears quickly on these motor homes because of the excessive weight they carry around. Have a mechanic look at the engine, trans/clutch (or auto), the front suspension, brakes, etc. If it passes all of these "tests/trials" THEN you can consider getting a rear axle and install it. Your vehicle has the narrow frame so you "should" try to find an axle from a 1985-1988 truck. Axles from 1989-1993 will have wider springs and require more fabrication. You can use a later model axle, it will just add a little more to the cost.

you can get stock rubber ones from any Toyota dealer and several major parts houses. you can get polly ones from the off road shops like Downey Off road http://www.downeyoff-road.com/SuspensionCo...lyurethane.html

Contact Winnebago and ask for a roof structure diagram for your year/model. Also ask them what was original used on that year/model. The roofs on Toyota motor homes are not very solid so I would be hesitant to put anything of weight on top, especially if you have a roof top AC.

"Most" leaks are from the vents, stacks, and AC roof unit. Once water gets past the butyl putty tape it can go just about anywhere. The 1st ting you should do is remove the vents and stacks, clean off the old putty tape, apply new putty tape and replace the vents and stacks. You "can" go around them with eternibond tape starting at the rear and ending at the front (so that when wind blows down the forward facing seams are covered by the tape in front). The side molding can be removed and the same routine for cleaning and replacing the putty tape followed. The rubber screw cover should be replaced at this time as it has more than likely shrunk and it may just break up when you try to remove it new screw cover rubber looks good too). T he windows should be treated this way and it is probably time to reseal them. Gooping with caulk or sealer is only a temporary fix (if at all). Proper way is to remove and replace the putty tape. The AC unit uses a special rubber seal so replace that and do NOT use any putty tape around the new seal

Tika had them refabricated/reproduced. They look as good as the original ones http://www.toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showuser=4

My 1991 Sunrader has a sliding window in the door which has a screen. Not as nice as a full screen door like the diesel has but better than nothing. I am sure that these are standard size so a search of an RV supply house should come up with one. Send some photos of the outside of your lockset to some of the larger RV salvage yards. I am sure that there are a fair amount of these door latches sitting around on shelves just waiting to be found. They were not extremely common but I have seen a few of them still in use.

There are lots of different types of RV door latches. A photo would go a long way in figuring out what you have

Max psi for rated load will be printed on the tires just like the manufacture date. The simple rule of thumb is to stay within 5 lbs of max rated because of the load being carried on them. The worst thing you can do is run under inflated. Running over inflated (at max recommended) will only make you ride harder, running under inflated will generate excessive heat which can lead to premature tire failure

I am going to have to get the Sunrader weighed once I finish all of the "add-ons" Things I have done since I purchased it Onan 2.8 kw genset (and xfer switch) Prosine 1.8 kw inverter (+ wiring, breakers, etc) nice sounds (in-dash + amp & multiple speakers) Satellite communications dish (motosat + controller, modem, router, etc) I know all of this will add about another 300 lbs easily. Time to go back on a diet

Make sure you check your spare. It should be the same size as what you are putting on new (185 R 14). If it isn't, grab one of the take offs and use it as the spare.

I bought 6 tires from tire rack and they were within 4 months of manufacture date. Buying from a high volume dealer like them ensures that you more than likely will get fresh tires. The deal tire rack has with local tire stores for installing is a lower price then what it would have cost me to walk into the same store off the street. If you have a blow out on the road you more than likely will not find anyone who will have a replacement tire in stock and if they do it will be rather old as this size and load range is rater obscure. So buying from a national chain would be no different than buying from anyone. When you need a replacement you will have a hard time finding it no matter who you purchased your tires from.

This was done by one of the members of the toyota-campers Yahoo group. He sold it on eBay about 8 months ago. When he was talking about the project he seemed like he was up for doing this swap out for other people if they were interested. The fuel economy on the engine swap was very near to what a 4 cyl would get. I'd have to dig back in the group to get the exact figures but it was impressive. There was a sunrader in Montana for sale that had a 350 chevy swap back when I was looking for the sunrader I purchased last year. A v-8 swap is a good alternative is you have a dead or tired engine. The additional HP and torque means that the engine does not need to work as hard and the gas mileage is no lower then what the original engine running full tilt would get.

I don't know man.... Ya think they would negotiate on the price or be open to offers?

If you are looking at a "Sunrader" they were built by Gardner-Pacific in Vallejo California. For a short while they also built simultaneously in Indiana by another company but using the same name. Interior construction was a little different between these 2 versions/companies. A Photo would go a long way in helping to identify what you are looking at.

You can order them from this company http://www.customcommercialwheel.com/ They also sell new toyota 1 ton 6 lug rims

A stock Toyota 1 ton rear end will look like this: http://www.toymike.com/diesel/pics/dieselUnder.jpg http://www.toymike.com/diesel/pics/rearAxleBrakeFittings.jpg http://www.toymike.com/diesel/pics/rearSprings.jpg Sorry, I don't have a pic from the front but it is a solid axle with a front hogs head (no rear plate like a US rear end)

I have never been a big fan of awnings and I wish that the last motor home I purchased did not have one. I view them as just more places for debris to collect and more holes in the coach to leak. With that said.... Both of my Toyotas have Carefree Colorado Freedom awnings... These are self contained roll out awnings and considered by some to be the finest you can use as there is nothing hanging around when they are retracted to catch the wind as they close up in their own self contained boxes. http://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/rvmhpa_f....asp?m=01010108 They are not inexpensive but they will last longer as when they are not in use they are stowed inside a weatherproof enclosure so no sun fading and no mold or mildew from exposure. when folded up you only have the stowage box and no dangling bits like some other less expensive awnings you will see. If you are going to punch holes in your coach you should get a high quality awning.

Check your lines and connections first to make sure you do not have a leak at a fitting (use soapy water just like you would to find a gas leak). If you find leaks fix them and see if the system will hold air. You can just hook up the bags to be manual inflation if you do not want to put in a new compressor. Do you have the dash mounted pressure adjusters? If you do it would be worth your time to get a replacement compressor, if not it would better to just put new hoses from the air nipples to the bags, cutting out the compressor. Give either of these folks a call and see if they have or can order just the compressor (not a full kit) http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...+115+4294849352 http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-whee...de-rite-kit.htm You may be able to hook up an air bladder/tank and aftermarket compressor if you can't find the direct replacement compressor.

Your year truck did not come with the 1 ton axle so you would have to look at what was put in as a replacement to your stock 1/2 ton axle at a later date. It "should" be as outlined in the page from the service manual if it is a Toyota axle. My 1981 has a very early 1 ton Toyota axle (1985/6) that I put in about 14 years ago which has the left hand lug nut threads on the driver's side (1st year production) and it has self adjusting rear shoes. My 1991 also has them so I would say that unless you have a NON Toyota rear axle yours should be the same.

Oh I don't know about that... Those old spinning horn Hammonds are very sexy