paulnptld

My Dolphin V6 has 118k on it. I'm doubtful the oil has been changed in recent history. So you think I should use the Dex 6? How many changes did you do to make sure debris wouldn't cause issues?

I just had Bilsteins done as well as respringing my Dolphin. It made a huge difference. I also found out on a recent trip that the trick to surviving washboard is completely counterintuitive - ie, go FASTER. I was amazed at the difference this made on a lengthy stretch of gravel road in eastern Oregon a few months ago.

Can anyone offer some advice as to how to secure sagging and detaching cabinets? It isn't a major problem...yet. I've just noticed that a few of the screws have worked their way out of from the ceiling and some gaps are beginning to show. The screws also seem to be stripped. Are there other anchor points? Thanks.

- Can I asked how you got Toyota to pay for this? I had the head gasket replaced last year. Would love to hear more.

I thought all of the V6 engines in our Toyhomes were 3VZE models. Is this not correct?

I have a lot of experience with this one since my Dolphin was also a ski chalet last winter. Nearly 200 hours on a 20lb tank of propane. 1/2 the heat from conventional propane heaters gets blown outside the RV. Go stand next to the heater vent the next time it's running. Running my Big Buddy at 9,000BTUs actually left the interior too hot...and the outside air temp was 14 degrees. Incidentally, there have been deaths from traditional propane heaters in RVs as well...both from CO and from fires. The only downside worth noting is that these heaters do produce water vapor when running, which tends to condense on cold surfaces, particularly windows. Finally, blower propane heaters just don't seem to work that well when a coach battery goes dead on you.

I just use the Mr. Buddy heater. Sips propane. No electricity used. No CO issues. Just leave windows cracked, and you'll be toasty warm all night. I'd remove the original heater if I didn't risk lowering the resale value one day. Incidentally, I have two CO detectors at the front and rear of my Dolphin. The only time it has ever registered over .01PPM was with the water heater running.

Good suggestion. I'll check on it, but I'm guessing the company that did the springs would have noticed if the sway bar weren't attached.

I just had mine resprung and new ones added. Also did new Bilsteins all the way around. Huge difference, though there still a lot of sway in windy conditions or when being passed on the freeway. Be careful about adding a lot of air to your air springs. A higher ride, though firmer, is even more susceptible to sway. You'll be white knuckled in a heavy crosswind. I leave mine at 30lbs now that I've had the springs redone.

It seems that no matter which item on the control panel I press, I see a single LED light up. For example, my fresh water tank is 100% full, but the panel indicates empty. It would be really useful to know the approximate status of my tanks. If these are prone to failure, does anyone have a replacement recommendation? Thanks!

Great feedback. Thanks. Sounds like I probably should just go with propane. Ugh.

My Norcold is ancient and is 12v/120. No propane. It's also poorly insulated and seems to cycle on frequently. I suppose buying a propane refrigerator would be cheaper than buying additional solar panels or a $1,100 solar refrigerator.

Here's why I'm asking. In looking for energy efficient refrigerators (EcoSolarCool, etc.) I found that most of them were 40 watts and more. On a forum someone pointed out that Kenmore makes an Energy Star model for $199 that they've powered entirely with a single 100 watt solar panel. Seemed impossible, but here's the model: http://www.kenmore.com/kenmore-3.1-cu-ft-2-door-compact-refrigerator/p-04695693000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 Looking at the Energy Star rating it seems he might be right though: http://c.shld.net/assets/docs/spin_prod_931511512.pdf Any thoughts on this? I want to yank out my battery sucking Norcold ASAP if this $199 refrigerator could really work.

We just wrapped up 950 miles in the Dolphin from Friday - Monday. SE Oregon is absolutely spectacular. Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/21222314@N05/sets/72157644878035355/ Enjoy!

The refrigerator ran fine for two days with just a single battery and the solar panels hooked up. It's an older 12v Norcold. My next project is to either a) better insulate the Norcold or buy this small Kenmore energy star model: http://www.sears.com/kenmore-3.1-cu-ft-2-door-compact-refrigerator/p-04695693000P?prdNo=5

As you can see, I'm 'camping' at the moment and just hooked up a 150 watt portable solar kit. Here's the question: It has cable ends that are similar to jumpers. I've hooked it up directly to the battery. Is this generally ok? I'm guessing the battery is draining more quickly than it's recharging anyway because we have our 12V refrigerator running.

Hi all. I'm going to replace the shocks and get the springs done next week. Is this the Bilstein set that I want? http://www.eshocks.com/bil_Ind.asp?VC=90Q11&SubChar=Q Thanks for the feedback.

Been thinking along the same lines. Zero risk, though I question the durability. I'm guessing maybe a few years at the most. On the upside, and assuming the color doesn't change, touch-ups would be pretty easy!

How has the wallpaper held up? Was that install tricky?

I think I've finally found the smallest available window mounted AC unit. I'm going to yank my ancient rooftop AC unit and install this: http://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-Window-Mounted-Conditioner-Full-Function-FFRL0633Q1/dp/B00IYQYN82/ref=dp_ob_title_hi I have an efficient refrigerator that runs on 12v or 120, largely powered by solar panels and 2 deep cycle batteries. I'm going to use the existing vent on the RV for propane refrigerators and vent the AC unit that way. Thoughts?

Thanks for the feedback. What type of performance improvement have you seen from changing the gearing?

Exactly what I was thinking, Zach. It would only be used because it has to be used. I will say that Turtle's comments do make me want to give this more careful consideration.

Last year I got stuck at the beach. I also take the Dolphin up skiing frequently, and have definitely had a few occasions (particularly in resort parking lots) where a locking rear would have been helpful. I figured that if I could get into one for less than $1,500 it might just be worth it. Also, I didn't realize that we had completely open differentials. Would a limited slip differential make more sense than the investment in a locking diff?