Odyssey 4x4

I had an issue with the transmission overheating on my Escaper and eventually wearing out the bushing and leaking all the trans fluid out. I brought the yoke with me to a heavy truck supply and they were able to provide a new one for me. I could not figure out what was causing the dang thing to overheat until I went to rebuild my engine. The trans cooler line going into the radiator was completely kinked off. The kink was so perfect that it looked like a factory error, but whoever installed that trans cooler line must have been blind or a dishonest mechanic. It never overheated or wasted the output shaft bushing again after opening that line back up!

You're going to need to be way more specific. The truck is a standard 1989 or 88 Toyota pickup. The motorhome portions were made by many different companies utilizing many different parts makers. It depends on what you need specifically.

On my old Escaper they tapped into the tank at the 1/4 mark! On my current rig it's in the fuel pump.

I saw some sunrader original manuals for sale on eBay if anyone needed to have them for collectors sake! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254321909081

Hey guys! I'm excited to announce that we are ready to apply the Filon siding to the walls, and then the walls to the truck! This thing is going to be shiny! Walls are prepped and filon is rolled out, I purchased 40'. Each wall is about 16 feet in total length. I have enough filon for both walls to be one solid piece of filon for the entire side, and enough leftover to do the rear wall as well as accessory doors and main entrance door. Tracing walls onto rolled out filon material for cutting. Trace Complete (double and triple check tracings are correct as well as orientation on filon since it has a good and a bad side)! Lots of careful cutting and then let it get some sun and soften up! It's really nice looking stuff and should really bring the Toyota a classy look. We will be gluing the filon to the walls early this week.

I think I’d rather have my yota!

We finally got a few minutes of dry weather today to get the truck out of the shop. This gave me a chance to snap some photos of the finished painted cab with bumper, as well as the near complete interior. Heated set buttons installed as well as marine grade 12v usb outlet. I also rebuilt and fixed up the shift console with new bushings and lubrication for smooth movement. I still have to wire the seats and USB as well as install a stereo head unit and speakers. The filon wall siding has been ordered and will be arriving within a few days which means the walls will soon be glossy and going back on the vehicle!

Sounds sweet! Do you have an instagram for the build?

nooooo why?

ARB deluxe front bumper installed.

yup, fortunately he was able to clean the evap coil which should give accurate hi/low pressures on the manifold. If the evap was still plugged up his readings would be all kinds of screwed up. Unfortunately, he cannot disassemble the system without losing his r12 charge unless he has a recovery tank. After that he might as well convert over to 134.

It sounds like you know what you're doing and are going about doing it the right way. I will say this though, I am rebuilding my 1990 and the air was the same as yours, cool but not cold. I pulled the AC system apart and replaced my condenser coil and will be doing the evap coil soon as well as the compressor. Multiple of the o-rings were wasted, they took on the classic crushed triangular shape rather than the flexible round shape they required. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture. Yours being even older than mine likely has the same issues going on which is normal for the age of these vehicles. When you attempt to charge the system, keep the gauges on it for a while and confirm that its holding a steady pressure, even after 30-45 minutes of sitting. If it has a leak obviously you're going to lose the precious R12, but you'll know the issue in the system. Also, considering the system is still R12, it's likely still the original compressor. The compressor is likely nearing the end of its life and not able to perform the way it did when new. Valves wear, bearings, etc.

There's always the option of the CSF all aluminum 3 row radiators for ultimate performance. They're expensive and people have different opinions on their performance. When I built my first Toy home (22re) I had the cylinders bored the next size up and also installed RV cams and it brought my engine temp up a considerable amount when exiting the highway. It was definitely on the verge of overheating. I installed a CSF 3 row and it never got hot again.

Very neat! I’d just be worried to be in the middle of nowhere while traveling and have a part fail that’s gonna take three weeks to locate and replace!

Very neat. I too am curious about locating parts for these JDM vehicles. Was this engine ever brought to the US?

AC temp doesn’t have anything to do with engine temp. Warmer ac is just usually low on refrigerant or normal lack of performance from high mileage parts (compressor, dirty evap coil in cab, etc). Obviously if the engine is overheating running the ac will put more of a load on the engine and cause it to get hotter. I had similar overheating issues in the past with other vehicles and putting in a new radiator did the truck. A previous owner put stop leak in the coolant to try to fix a leak in the heater core and ended up plugging up about 40% of the radiator from the crappy stop leak stuff. It got enough air across it while moving to not overheat but once stopped it just couldn’t keep up. Don't bother having the radiator cleaned, a new one isn’t much more expensive.

I will say the only time I've had a fan clutch fail it did fail in a way which made it permanently on and you could definitely hear it and know it was on all the time. It robbed a good amount of power but that's better than over heating! When you burped the system with the cap off are you certain the thermostat opened? You'll usually see the coolant level start to rise and fall a bit while it's warming up and starting to want to open and finally when the stat opens fully it will burp a bunch of water out of it and overflow a bit. Then top it off again and maybe have someone give it some throttle so that you can make sure you see water moving through the system adequately.

Have you checked out the fan clutch? Did you verify the Toyota thermostat opened before installing?

Why are people steering away from the standard RV units in the first place?

Somewhat related, my USPS person showed up in an imported turbo diesel land cruiser the other day. My jaw dropped!

Although a hole in the floor is the easier route, dropping a tank isn't THAT much work. Unless of course yours is custom and/or welded in or something!

Looked brand new as in a 2018ish body style?

If that ends up being the issue perhaps you could create an "intake" vent from underneath the camper and then have a mesh exhaust vent in the door making it so you don't need to open the door when running the system.

That's definitely a well fitting spot! Let us know what happens when you run it not in the box. I'm curious if the airflow is creating a circular vortex basically sucking the hot air straight back into the compartment and "recycling" it, which would obviously make the system not work.

I'm not sure there would be enough room or air flow in the generator compartment for the compressor to perform properly. It needs to be able to easily get rid of the heat and move fresh air across the condenser coil. I guess it depends on how you installed it in the box?