mountainmansteve

Hi John (Vanman): I don't know what the "Charge Wizard" is, but it may be what Parallax is calling their TempAssure ™ system that charges the battery at a rate based on the temperature of the battery (upgrade kit is supposed to include this sensor for the battery with a 25ft cable) I don't know when my Load Center was retrofitted with the Model 7345 RU Electric Power Converter, just that there is a sticker inside the drop down front cover stating it was retrofitted. However, I did some research and learned, from a single source, that this Retrofit Model is no longer available, and it pointed me to the TCRU Series Universal Upgrade Power Converter that I mentioned in a post above. My current, or should I say No-Current Model 7345 had a rated output of 45A. I have mostly been seeing the 55A version of the TCRU being offered as a stock item; again see my above post. I will most likely replace my Model 7345 with the 55TCRU and will follow-up with a post on how the install goes, etc. Truly, Stephen

Hi Maineah: I'm not sure how old it is, but if my EFI system problem (Engine Starts Normally, But Dosen't Run) isn't too expensive (just found a potential part of the problem today and wrote a post about it), I will most likely grab one of the 55TCRU's and fiddle with the non-functioning unit at my liesure. Thanks for your input and hopefully you are following my other Forum Topic I mentioned above. Truly, Stephen

Decided to try to push the accelerator to try to keep my Dolphin running after the initial start-up today with some very interesting results. I was able to keep the engine running as long as I was quickly pumping thlw accelerator. Fortunately, I had the help a very knowledeable Local Deputy Sheriff to look under the hood while I was madly pumping the gas. Initially Mike was thinking it was a vacuum problem, but quickly shifted his focus to the exhaust manifold when I told him that I discovered a missing bolt some time ago. The short version is that there is a significant blowout in the exhaust manifold gasket at the point closest to the firewall between the engine compartment and the driver's side of the cab. Mike explained to me that the leak could be causing an incorrect reading by the oxygen sensor located downstream of the leaking gasket. I think that this oxygen sensor dictates to the rest of the engine how much fuel to dump to the injectors. Mike said that the engine was definitely running rich--that the leaky gasket could also be allowing oxygen-rich air to enter the exhaust stream. So, my next step is to replace the exhaust manifold gasket, get new bolts and properly sequence and torque the bolts when tightening. I'll let you all know what change this effects in my next post. Most likely Friday as I don't yet know the availability of the parts I need. For those of you whom have viewed this topic, this is a good one to follow through to the end....... Truly, Stephen

This is a real downer. I drove the West Coast last December from San Francisco to San Diego. I had a great time hanging out in the PB Area, parking overnight on the street and getting up early to get a good spot at one of the many areas along the ocean. I looked into a few of the RV Parks. There was one between OB and PB that I recall was quite pricey ($50/ night) and another that was quite reasonable, but right next to I-5. Guess I'll be exploring North of San Francisco next time I head for the West Coast. Truly, Stephen

I did find some pricing ranging from $234.71 on Amazon to $274.99 at Camping World for the 55TCRU (55 Amp Charger) . This is a retrofit as I mentioned in the post above. Still, I would rather replace some components that are likely to be much much less cost. Truly, Stephen

Thanks for the feedback and link. I have already gotten to the "Converter Replacement Is Necessary" block. I was hoping that someone had a schematic of the converter. I did some research and found that Parallax does offer an "TCRU Series Universal Upgrade" that will work for replacing the converter portion of my 7345. according to Parallax the: " TCRU converter "Upgrade Kit" includes the TempAssure™ module and sensor cable. 45, 55, 65, and 75 DC ampere output models available! For Parallax and MagneTek model 555, and any model of Parallax & MagneTek 6300 and 7300 series". But, I have not priced them, yet, nor do I have any feedback on cost/benefit for this upgrade. I did find a distributer that stated the converter replacement for the model 7345 is no longer available. Does anyone have a schematic for the Parallax Model 7345 Power Converter? Truly, Stephen

Greetings Dolphin Masters: I have been plugged into shore power for about 2 weeks and noticed that my cabin battery was not keeping up with my very limited DC use. I checked the output of my model 7345 Parallax Power Converter with a voltmeter and read 0V. Does anyone know if there are schematics available for this power converter? Is it practical to troubleshoot to the defective component or is it better to buy a newer model 7345? The Parallax website claims that their newer model has filtered DC. Is this a good enough reason to upgrade to a newer model? Or is there a better model out there that someone can recommend? Can I get a new power converter section without changing the distribution part of the box? Regards, Stephen

Greetings Dolphin Masters: The saga of my 1986 Dolphin Electronic Fuel Injection System continues with a new chapter. The feedback andealth of knowledge I receive from all of you is greatly appreciated and highly valued. I turn the key on, hear the fuel pump running, the engine starts immediately and runs for ~2 seconds then quits. The fuel pump (my most recent problem) was checked by the mechanic that replaced it when I returned from my most recent road trip; system pressure is 40psi, so not likely the current problem. I have started some preliminary troubleshooting with a multi-meter. I am using the excellent 1988 Repair Manual that I downloaded from Waiter (John Mc) and have gained a fair understanding of the EFI System from the outstanding technical documents posted to a previous topic be Ya Baby! (Maineah), whom I recall previously taught this EFI System for Bosch. So far I have tested the following fuses No 1 Relay Block ( under the driver's side inside the cab) EFI, Engine, IGN, and STOP (pg 238 of the repair manual). And No 2 Relay Block (passenger side inside the engine compartment by the battery) AM1 40A and AM2 30A (pg 38 of the repair manual) I also checked the voltage at the ECU +B--E1, 12.2V and BATT-E1, 12.2V This is as far as I can go on what I know to this point. Please Help! Regards, Stephen

Hi Linda: yeah, my mechanic, Scott, said the tank is quite interesting. Snowing in Evergreen today, I'll get a pic in the next day or so. Truly, Stephen

Hi Bob: As far as I know, my fuel tank is stock. It fills very slowly, but is somewhere in the size range of 45 gallons. Truly, Stephen

Greetings Dolphin Masters: I finally bit the bullet and took my Dolphin to the local Toyota dealership for diagnosis. The short answer is that the fuel pump was the problem. Just a bit tricky because it seemingly ran fine at steady state. The fuel pump pressure was low ( building to 20 psi when it should get to over 30 psi). This contributed to the problem because the check valve that is supposed to hold the fuel system pressurized was bad. So, every time I shut the engine down the fuel system pressure was dropping to 0psi. Combined with a "weak" fuel pump the fuel system took a long time to come up to a pressure great enough for the engine to start. My regular mechanic removed and replaced it today and my Dolphin is once-again starting immediately with the turn of the key. a note to you do-it-yourself mechanics: the drive shaft needed to be dropped on my 1986 Dolphin to be able to drop the gas tank. I just disconnected the battery awhile ago to reset the ECM. I figure the new operating pressure of the system may affect the performance. I could be wrong on this since the fuel system pressure regulator was checked and found to be functional. Once again, I greatly appreciate the wealth of knowledge and support you folks have provided in resolving this problem. I can now move on to finishing my shower remodel............. Truly, Stephen

Hi Maineah: Thanks for the lesson. I'll start investigating the cold-start injector system. Regards, Stephen

Hi John Mc and Dolphin Masters: The hard starting went away briefly and I got her back to Evergreen. I've mostly had her parked, but have found the hard-starting problem to have returned......... I tried leaving the ignition on for a about 10 seconds before starting and I can hear the fuel pump, but this doesn't help. I did change the Oxygen Sensor while still in CA and the plugs were good. I think I posted pics of these earlier. I started investigating the air intake. It looks like there is a module that controls an air intake damper. Could this be a potential problem? How would I check its functionality? Also, the 6 min JB Weld has held up on the Charcoal Canister :-) As always, your feedback and input are greatly appreciated Regards, Stephen

Just ran the Mighty Dolphin after doing the ECM reset. I drove it normally, got it up to operating temperature. Took it to highway speed (65 mph) briefly. About a 20 minutes of running. Sit it down and restarted it. It starts pretty much like it used to, although Waiter was correct, it did run rough for about 10 minutes or so. Truly, Stephen

You folks are Rock Stars with this stuff. Wile waiting for the ECM reset I pulled the plugs. They look good, I think. 4,3,2,1 Left to Right in both pics. Considering just changing the O2 sensor, but don't like to change more than 1 thing at a time. Thoughts on changing O2 sensor? Truly, Stephen

Hi Derek Up North: Does the 1985 service manual cover 1986 ( the year of my Dolphin) as well? Truly, Stephen

Hi Donnie: Good stuff, thanks. Will pull a plug and have a look. This is something I was thinking about doing, but it slipped my mind. Truly, Stephen

Hi Waiter: Your last post helps, a lot. As I continued to drive yesterday it took longer to start, especially when cold. I removed the positive battery cable a few minutes ago and will wait at least 10 minutes before reconnecting and taking a drive; driving normally. The JB Weld is a good tip as well, thanks, I'll find some. Duct tape is a standard staple in my box of goodies........ I'll check in on the results of resetting the ECM. Truly, Stephen

Derek Up North: Thanks for the link to the repair manual. Truly, Stephen

GOOD NEWS! Fixing the vacuum leak has significantly improved starting. The first start took about 8 seconds of cranking, but did not have to give it any gas. I let it run until thermostat opened and shut it off. The next start took about 3 seconds, again without giving I any gas. However, as with the first start, there was some rough firing for about 1 sec, but ran smoothly immediately after that. I took the Mighty Dolphin on the road next, and initially it sputtered for the first acceleration through first and second gear, though not in third. The next acceleration had the same result, but after that smooth running on further accelerations though all gears. I ran it up to 75 mph on the freeway for a few miles and stopped to top off the fuel tank (want to check for gas mileage improvement). It takes slow gas pumping to get filled up, so The MD came down to below operating temperature (thermostat closed). This next start was about 2 seconds of cranking with only a couple of sputters before catching and running smoothly. I shut it off and started it a few times after getting back to operating temperature, and it fired without sputtering. At this point I think the primary issue of cranking a long time before starting is solved.. However, I had been running this way for about 2000 miles, so it may take some time for the charcoal canister to recover fully; it is still not starting in less than 1 second as it did before this problem. Also, the Loctite Adhesive may not hold.........so I want to replace the charcoal canister if anybody has a source for one of these vintage 1986 charcoal canisters. What years would work? And finally, I am grateful for the, once again, unbelievable wealth of knowledge and freely sharing of it through this forum! I am in the Central Valley near Modesto, CA visiting friends and my home base of Evergreen, CO is long way from here. Thank You! Truly, Stephen

Hi Waiter (John Mc) I used an Loctite Adhesive on the broken fitting yesterday (~18hours ago). Concur to reattach this first before trying anything else. Great information. Will post what happens next. Truly, Stephen

Hi skydancer2992: Thanks for the troubleshooting checklist. Do you know a good source to obtain this repair manual? Stephen

Hi Maineah: Once running it is OK. Planning to put vacuum line back on first before trying anything else. Changing only 1 thing at a time.

Hi Donnie: Nothing else going on with the running engine, heat works fine. Temperature runs normal, however sometimes when first running for the day the temperature will rise to above halfway briefly then go back down to about 1/4 where it normally runs. This, I think is the way the thermostat is working.

Hi stamar: It seems to run fine once running. But, when it is trying to start as I continue to crank it, sometimes it catches fairly soon once it try's to start firing, other times when I release the key it dies and I have to start cranking it again.