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My TV antenna is the luggage carrier and is completely worthless! Good thing I don't watch much TV I even tried it when we still had analog signals I think holding up my right hand would have been better! Now maybe if I pointed the MH a little more to the north.....

Your panel will have 2 buss bars one is insulated the other is bonded to the panel box. All the white wires go to the insulated buss bar the greens or bear wires go to the one bonded to the panel. In turn there is a usually bear wire (may also be green) that finds it's way to the frame from the buss bar that is bonded to the panel. This ground keeps the truck frame and any metal part from becoming "hot" if some thing goes wrong, it allows it to "ground" through the shore wiring as tires are pretty good insulators. If you connect a "white" or neutral wire to the ground it will work but it will cause ground loop problems and make the safety ground ineffective.

The best place would be the pan. You will have to have it off the change the filter any way just make sure it has room where you want to put it before you start drilling!

By code you can not have a grounded neutral (except in a sub panel). But the ground (ie green wire) and the 12 volt ground are one in the same. The best tool you can buy for your motor home if you are going to plug it in is a simple plug in 3 light tester very cheap and very handy. If it fails the test unplug your shore power right away. Just about every where you go now has GFI’s so it’s less of an issue then it used to be.

OK that is probably your answer it is not running fast enough to make power. Can you hold the choke lever open with your hand? There is a big screw down under the rod for the choke that is the choke adjustment, now you can make it too tight or too loose so if you are now comfortable adjusting it maybe you can find a friend that is. What you can do is prop the choke open after it starts a stick or some thing to hold it open there is a paddle (that is probably what you see vibrating) push it back and it should smooth out and run faster. That will get you going for the weekend then maybe you can find some one to fix it.

Nope they all use frame ground that is to keep you from shocked from metal parts on the MH. The Green goes to the round pin on your power cord and to the shore ground. I'm thinking your 120volt problem was a connection between your 120v fridge heater and the 12v fridge heater that's about the only place I can think of where they could tangle.

When you mean starting do you mean it won't crank? Yes all of the breaker have to be on including the one on the generator I'm not sure of your breakers up down or side ways but they should have on /off markings. Does this thing sound like it's running fairly fast and smoothly?

I would check your oil filter if that is about where it is leaking more then once I have seen the old filter ring stick to the engine and then some one screws the new filter on top of the old ring. If it's leaking running it means there is oil pressure some where trying to get out. An other spot they like to leak is the oil sending unit if it never have been replaced it will have a rubber cover over it pull it back and see if oil runs out.

You trying to run lights, heater, etc or your A/C or microwave? There is a main breaker in your inside panel but it should still run the lights and such if it were tripped the A/C and outlets would not work. On the side of the generator (assuming it's an Onan) behind the access door is a generator breaker if it is tripped you will get no output looks like a house breaker. I can't say for sure but I think the only thing the small fuses will do is not let it start one I think is fuel pump and the other control wiring. would not hurt to check them any way.

Have you replaced the oil filter? The pans usually don't leak. One of the most common places they leak are from the front seal behind the belt pulley.

There is also a breaker on the generator looks like a switch for the 120 volt output.

Some of the MH have a socket in the same little door where the power cord lives the socket goes to the generator so you have to plug in the power cord to the socket to get power from the generator.

The converter/charger should charge the coach battery even if the isolator is toes up. It may take awhile but it should. Can you disconnect the coach battery from the isolator? Does it charge the truck battery with the new fuse installed? If an isolator diode fails it usual fails open so yes it's possible it would not charge the coach battery but your charger still should. Is there a circuit breaker inline to the coach battery? Do you own a volt meter? Sorry about all the questions but every thing is related.

The guy with the engine know how to put it in? That maybe your answer one stop shopping. Your head is probably still good so that's not an issue easy to change sitting on the floor. A 40 mile tow is a lot cheaper then a 300 mile tow you maybe able to talk the guy into taking it the entire way. Don't tow it very far with the rear wheels turning it will damage the transmission from lack of lube unless you remove the drive shaft.

It's not so much the hauling it's what are you going to attach the hitch too? There is not a Toyota made that has a strong enough bumper. I assume it's an automatic and flat towing it for 200+ miles is not a good ideal unless you remove the drive shaft. Have any friends with an AAA card? A rollback will haul it just need to be careful with low bridges. You are between a rock and a hard place the safest way would be to let a tow company haul it.

It's not wired right wait until Greg gets his wired with pictures.

Group 31 is a fairly heavy battery most likely at least 120 ah you should be fine as long as its deep cycle for your coach. Mine is a 31 been in service in two different units for over 4 years with no problems.

They are not speed demons I guess it is hard to tell with out driving it but don't put any bets up if some one wants to race you. The brakes do not feel like they are doing much but they do stop pretty well if you have to, they probably are a bit rusty from sitting and may improve with some driving. It takes a lot to get 6,000+ pounds moving with only about 130 HP.

Look at the wiring to your isolator there is a new wire that is attached to the alternator "ign" terminal that goes to the "E" terminal on the isolator it is a smaller wire I would carefully check it and make sure it is not touching any thing it will blow the engine fuse if it has a short to ground. Because this was recently add it would be suspect if you see nothing disconnect the "E" terminal it could be shorted to ground but very unlikely then see if it blows the fuse. With that wire disconnected it will not charge but at least it would either be the problem or eliminate it. Get out your Toyota book if you have it and see what is on that fuse other then the alternator I don't think there is much I think what you saw is pretty much it.

Yes.

What size is the fuse and do you have a solid state isolator?

There is a guy on the site that has used spray on truck bed liner on his roof it looks really good! That's some pretty tough stuff.

http://www.gmcws.org/Tech/dsimmons/onan/on...#general-repair Good repair procedures and wiring.

Yes it will happen again if it is a 5 bolt axle and most likely soon as the other axle has the same mileage it's the flexing that kills them. I can't answer your 1 ton question I'm not sure of the difference from year to year there are guys in the site that have been through this before that could help you out. Definitely fix it before you go or find a MH with the 1 ton floater.

That is the beauty of the little combiner it reads both voltages. With the 4 terminal isolator the diode is built in and goes from "E" to "A" and passes voltage from E to A and blocks from A to E. The "E" terminal recieves power from the "ign" wire at the alternator when you turn the key on. What this does is provides a 12 volt signal to the alternator battery lead other wise it would not energize the field through the regulator it has to see battery voltage at the alternator output terminal. With both terminals 1 and 2 blocking return voltage there would be no voltage at the alt. output terminal. This could be accomplished by adding a diode to the alt. between the regulator "ign" lead and the output terminal and would achieve the same results with a 3 post isolator as a 4 post. So with the two diodes on the isolator battery leads the only voltage the alternator sees for regulation is through the battery sense wire from the truck wiring. Try your ohm meter between 1 and 2 and A then A and E and I think you'll see what I mean. There are some alternators that self energize and they do not require the "E" terminal.