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The heaters use a fair amount of battery so if it's really cold it's going to need a recharge pretty quick. Most of the campers had two batteries and they should recharge from the truck engine or 120 volt (running the heater when it's plugged in is no problem). There are a few different propane setups so maybe if you stopped by a campground that sells propane they could help you. I would say hands down the propane fridge is the winner over ice they use very little gas.

Well they had a welded rim that was dual rear tire set up it was an attempt to make up for the lack of load carrying ability of the 1/2 ton rear it may have been worse then one tire. They were fitted to the 5 bolt rears not a true full floating 1 ton rear. Sorry can't help you with the frame maybe one of the other guys knows I thought they all were based on the 1 ton frame work.

tirerack.com has a pretty good site and they give a good run down on sizes,loads etc. The ply rating of a tire does not mean it has as many ply as the rating just that it is rated to be as strong as having X number of plys so the ride is not adversely effected. The Toy Home has a long wheel base so the ride is not bad regardless, higher pressure might make you notice little bumps more.

Agreed. But newer 22RE's have O/D 5 speeds they are quieter, use less fuel and run just as long.

The lock up is a big plus no doubt both in heat and fuel economy and with a 6 it will work. The 4 does not have the power (plus the age factor, not new enough for the technology) all converters do act as torque amplifiers to some extent (if they are not in lockup) and the 4 needs that. Converter slip is what causes the heat no doubt about it but driven in a sensible manner you can reduce the converter slip, slower speeds, lower gear on the hills and don't try to keep it to the floor. Generally the trans will down shift if it's working too hard that should be the first clue to shift it out of O/D until things improve. IMHO if you take care of the transmission even with using O/D it will last a long time.

Found one http://www.bigway.com/CARTgallery2.htm (I was looking for a female pol)

Feel like driving as far as Maine? I would love to get one going here. I own 80 acres of land and have 1,800' on the river but the road to the river is not that good. There is however a large campground across the river from me that has all the amenities and I'm sure we could made a deal with them. We are minutes from Conway NH and the White Mountains.

I guess you are talking about the bull nose that fits in the tank valve end. The older ones did not have a gasket but the new ones have a small "O" ring either will work. So maybe if you can't get the old one to seal you could try a newer bull nose with the "O" ring they do unscrew from the regulator. I was looking for a propane fitting and found what I wanted on line I think I found it under "propane brass fittings"

I agree with Dennis I can't stand to hear the engine wound up for no reason when it's so easy to use O/D. Change (flush) the fluid every 30K use synthetic put on a big cooler and drive on. Will I get 100K out of mine using O/D? Probably. Will you get 100K out of yours not using O/D? Probably.

A lot of it has to do with the ply rating a "C" is rated 6 ply and load pressure of 50 psi and a "D" rated tire is rated 8 ply at a load pressure of 65 psi. When I bought my Toyota it had "C" rated tires on it one of them split right in the middle of the tread it did not come apart but the next day I bought 6 new "D" rated tires.

Yes they are nothing more then a switch just on and off voltage is not an issue so one for a house furnace will work fine. A lot of them will have a differential setting so look at the directions and set the differential as high as you can that way your furnace will not cycle as often most home are set around 2 degrees try your camper at 4 (I think that's the max).

Most of the newer 26" or smaller LCD TV's are only 35/60 watts so they should run just fine on a small 150 watt inverter. One with a built in DVD will probably use twice as much. I'm not much of a TV watcher so I use my laptop and a monitor to watch movies monitors are getting cheaper every day usually half the price of a TV. A lot of guys are using TV tuners in their laptops hooked up to an antenna out side. Maybe that would be an option.

If they are "C" rated tires you need to go see your tire store they will not stand the load of a 6000# motor home and they are not designed to run the necessary air pressure. You really need a "D" rated tire don't mean to scare you but a "C" rated tire is not a good thing and should be changed. When people look at our little motor homes they would never believe they weigh 3 tons! Most people are running some thing close to 50 psi on all 6.

I have never heard of that, most of the bigger stuff has a flexable line between both rear wheels to keep them at exactly the same pressure. Maybe it is some strange thing they did on the fake dual wheels (5 bolt rear). The ideal is to increase the load carrying capacity so it seems to me the one with more pressure would be doing most of the work.

wickerman is right make sure you have the proper tires first it's bad enough have car tires that won't handle the load much less way over inflating them. Some where behind the drivers seat there should be a plate from the coach maker that will have their ideal on how much pressure the tires should have might be a good starting point. The Toyota plate will list pressures for a truck not a motor home.

Most of the stock heaters only try to light once so if it does not light it will just sit there and blow cold air until you turn the thermostat off. If the lines are full of air on the first try it probably will not light so it has to be recycled to try again it might take a few tries to get it to light. The ideal with the fan running first is to blow any propane that might be left over out of the fire box before it lets the next batch in.

Have a look at newegg.com and type in inverter in the search tab I'm not sure they have the best prices but it's a good place to start it's an easy site to use. I saw one that was 3,000 watt for lass then $500. Hope you have a big battery/batteries and some mighty big cables!

OK here is the response from K&N:Hello, I am sorry to say that we do not offer an intake system for your specific year. Thank you for your time. Have a great day. Thomas Walden Technical Support & Sports Marketing 800-858-3333 ThomasW@KNFilters.com So I guess they no longer support our 22RE's I did tell him it was for an "87" but my old "94" pickup was exactly the same as my "87" MH. I know they did because I have seen them on the 22RE's and the users were pleased with the results oh well I had thought about one for mine also.

I think a lot of them the sink drains to the black water it's kind of right there and the bath sink does not really get too much use. The bad set up is the shower also drains to the black water not a good ideal for people that use the shower it does not take long to dump several gallons in the black water tank. There are those that have disconnected the piping and used a 5 gal. bucket for the shower drain. I guess the best way to find out is open the gray water valve and turn on the shower a full black water tank is no fun.

superbrightleds.com has some rated at 120 lumens for led's that's pretty bright. They have them in cool white that color temperature is closer to what you maybe used to (not an intense white light). They are tiny chip led's mounted on a pc board with a standard bayonet bulb type base. Don't buy led's by watts that is very misleading instead look at the lumens (a measure of light output)if you can't find a lumens rating try another web site. LED technology has changed dramatically in the last year or so and so has the price.

Good plan that by far is your best way to go. I know I'll hear about it but I run mine in O/D all the time (so maybe I'll only get 120k instead of 150k out of it) and it's bone stock. You may ask about your warranty if you change the cam.