Maineah

I'm all for stock in the long run they are less trouble. Headers will give you a little boost in power, cats are restrictive as are small pipes with bends but I doubt that you had drag racing in mind. Cats do clean up the act and it may not pass emission test if it's required where you live a lot of states even if they do not test emissions require the cat even if it is only visable. The older exhaust manifolds the ones wrapped up inside of a tin shell cracked all the time I have welded dozens of them with a mig.

Remember your cam turns half the speed of the crank so it would take twice the torque to loosen the crank bolt going the other direction.

OK here is the new See Level gauge and the little frame I made to hide the big ugly hole where the old one was. I need to match up some stain and glue it in however it maybe awhile until I get to finish the project they recommend 60 degrees or above before you stick the sensors on the tanks probably won't see that till May some time! guess I'll ID the wiring put the panel in and just wait for warm weather for the sensors..

The head gasket should have nothing on it they are coated with graphite to allow them to move around as they are torqued. The valve cover has a very neat type of rubber snake gasket and needs no sealant the machined ends of the head where the half moon plugs are might benefit from a dab of rtv. As far as the cam turning hold the crank bolt with a socket and bar braced against the frame.

That's why the pan is the best place for the sensor the fluid is just back from the cooler and it is what is about to be pumped into the workings. Here are some neat gauges: http://www.tradervar.com/Digital-Automotive-Gauges-C9312.htm

I think a generator was an option on all of them and it should have a propane heater.

Can't help you with the gas tanks but the generator will charge the batteries and if it has a socket inside of where the power cord is yes it has to be plugged into it in order to run off the generator. There is no need to take it out unless you need to plug it into the house. The fridge is pretty dumb it has no ideal weather it should be on gas or electric so you'll have to help it out. Some propane tanks are fixed and some are not your best bet would be to take the MH to your local propane station most bigger campgrounds have propane. Some of the portable tanks (ones that you can actually take out) can not be refilled they must have the tank valve that only has 3 sides where as the fixed tanks do not. Also you should not lay a standard tank on its side (the type for a standard back yard BBQ).

OK it looks like you have a replacement radio so all bets are off. 9 volts is not enough I don't think the lighter is a good place to pick up power any way. Usually after market radios have two power wires generally, yellow +12 volts all the time for the memory and the clock. Red, 12 power from the key (turns radio on) black, ground and blue. The blue is used for power antennas or receive amps if you have neither don't hook it to any thing it will confuse the issue. I would guess if your lighter does not work the 9 volts is probably a back feed form the radio if the clock works. Your black box is most likely a choke it's used to reduce noise. It looks like the plug is an adaptor plug to interface with the Toyota wiring there should be power speakers and grounds right in the Toyota plug that is where your radio wiring should connect. Earlier Toyota's had two plugs one for power and the other for speakers so you may have to pick up power from the smaller plug.

Good find glad you let us know what you found. The only thing I saw in the wiring was a relation to the A/C control and that's tied to the engine ECU.

I think that stuff soaks up water pretty good. They make a type of paneling for showers not cement board but a water resistant paneling for wet areas that might work for you I think it's called Laminex.

Gross vehicle weight rating. What that means is your fully loaded vehicle passengers, fuel, gear, food, water etc can not exceed 4600# the way it is presently setup.

Strangely enough most drum brake shoe frames are pretty much the same so with drum size and widths a good parts person should be able to find just what you need. I know Ford truck brakes and I believe the wheel cylinders too will fit the Toyota rears (do not remember what year or module though)

Yeah mine is big and ugly too I do wood working so I'm just going to make a nice panel with some molding around it kind of like a picture frame sure would be nice to know what's in my tanks. Too bad your sensor did not work but I think you will be real happy with the See Level unit.

The stock 4 speed is 1:1 in 4th the 5 spd. will be over driven in 5th as will an automatic in O/D so be careful with very low final drives or you'll end up with the same revs as you would in 4th at "X" mph. Yes it will have more pull but a faster turning engine will use more gas. A 4.88 drive shaft turns 16% faster then a 4.10.

Yea simple fix! Good job.

He had better go to confession Sunday either that or he is very bad with figures. More like 6/8 mpg.

The 712-lt is on the way I asked about the price and the girl said the company let them sell them really cheap because of over stock it is an entire kit can't go wrong that is real close to 50% off.

Got a wiring diagram in front of me the tank float wire should be yellow with a red stripe that goes back to the gauge if you ground it or hook a test light to it it should read full.

So if you put the old battery back in it works? Check to see if you have 12 volts at the fuse panel should be a fair sized lug with around a #8 wire. No ideal about your big red wire generator maybe? Picture?

Yes I have seen them nice brass one big bucks new I buy all kinds of stuff at the boat parts stores cause they are pretty weather proof. I tried to find a place in the MH for one and there was just not enough room to mount it any where that it would not be in the way and I was not real enthusiastic about putting another hole in the roof but thanks for suggesting it. I wrote to one of the pump people about a small pump that they had does about 1 gpm but I was not sure how it would like 100+ degree water so I'm still waiting to hear from them.

Try mcshanks rvupgradestore.com site they have a super good price!

Wow that's a **** of a good price the Garret site has them in the $300 range I wonder why they are so cheap! I have no use for the heater switch but so what. I think I'll give them a call and make sure it's the whole kit. Thanks.

Yeah I live in Maine and go often where there is no power and some how the generator is over kill so electric is out. I tried a catalytic heater they work great but ever time I have used them even vented I ended up with a smashing head ache even the Mr Buddy type that say they are OK even in a tent. In May I go to Canada and it's not unusual to get snowed on so heat is a good thing. The propane camper heaters do a really good job but I think I could sleep better in a subway so that is the ideal behind the hot water heater the exhaust is all ready out side of the camper and does not require a huge fan to expel the fumes. Case in point the truck heater does a fine job so why not use the same ideal to heat the camper? When I have power a 1000 watt heater is all I need unless it's in the teens outside then I have to go to 1500 watts. I think I am going to built a proto type using house hold tap water and see how it does.

Mine is worthless also I am going to install a See Level unit using the existing wires. The See Level units use a flexible board that you stick to the outside of the tank and uses only two wires. The one I am buying is a 709-p3w they are not cheap ($235) but it does black, gray, fresh and propane there is also a pump switch. I emailed the dealer about the propane and he said the fixed tanks all come with a float and most were never hooked up I guess I'll soon find out about that. The biggest issues with the in tank sensors is the fouling with gook inside of the tank and the excessive amount of wiring. I kind of doubt that a different sensor will work with your system.

Sorry I can't help you with colors with out sliding under mine. From there you will have to get under the dash and it maybe a lot easier to take the dash out and then probe the back of the gauge. Pretty much the same drill one side will blink the other side should glow dimly and the gauge should hear towards full. I would not give up just on your tank connector make sure you have a good ground to your test light. The tank sensor is the most likely problem but I like to know for sure before I replace any thing parts are just too expensive to just replace until you fix it.