Jeffrey

I forgot to mention. As I mentioned in the above post, I had some slight voltage readings (when the coach battery wasn't hooked up) from the coach battery cables prior to starting the engine and a slight change after starting the engine. When I checked the cables when I turned on shore power they were low but not the same. When turned off the shore power, an entirely new (low) reading was indicated, i.e. the low readings all over the place.

Thanks waiter, Maineah and Fred H. So, I just returned from a auto parts store where they checked the Battery and found it to be in excellent health. Went out to the rig and put a volt meter on the coach battery cables without the battery hooked up. The meter read 2.1 volts. Then, I turned the engine on and immediately the volt meter indicated 1.3 volts. Then, after the alternator kicked in, the volts went to 1.1. waiter the coach lights work when shore power is on and when just battery is now hooked up (shore power off) Maineah Are the "isolators" the small boxes that are on the inside wall of the coach battery compartment that seem to be "fuses" or "shunts"; positive cable connects to them? If so, they "seem" to be functional, i.e. when I hook the volt meter on it and turn the dial to get a "beep" if the circuit is complete, and hook them to the "Isolators/Shunts/Fuses" in that compartment, each one seems normal. Fred My brother cleaned that connection two days ago so thanks for that suggestion but that doesn't seem to be the issue. It seems that the problem might be somewhere where the wires "Y" (from truck battery/alternator and from the shore power) TO where the cables run into the coach battery compartment. Sound logical?

"Your coach battery should charge from the truck when its running, or from shore power when plugged in." The battery does not seem to be charging from either. "Reading across the batteries when the truck is running, you should get around 14 volts at both batteries." Yes to the truck battery and no to the coach battery. (3.6 to 7.5 have been the two readings thus far. I have not put the fully charged battery back in the rig. It's raining and I've been busy all day. Will tomorrow and give an update) "The fact that your reading 7 volts at the coach battery on both shore power and truck running seems to make me think you have a broken wire or faulty self resetting breaker somewhere in the battery line." I agree. What are the (two in my coach battery compartment and three in my brothers coach battery compartment) small "shunts"(?) that come off the positive wire and are attached to the compartment wall? I'm getting a "ping", i.e. complete circuit, on my voltage meter indicating they aren't blown(?). "Its also possible your battery could have shorted cells." I'm assuming "shorted cells" occurs when one cell goes dry? We topped them up with distilled yesterday but the lead plates were still under water. Is this a new coach battery? The battery was in the unit when my brother bought the Toy Home last spring. It "appears" to be "new" from it's external condition even though the tag reads "4/11" "One test you might do, disconnect the coach battery, and check th evoltage on the battery, and on the wire you just removed from the battery." I'll do that tomorrow when I hook the battery up. "ALSO - Do the coach lights work when on shore power with the battery disconnected. What happens to them when you connect the battery." I'll check those tomorrow too. Appreciate your info thus far.

Excellent question. It "appears" (small red sticker "4/11") it's a little over two years old. I just (trickle) charged the battery over night and will test it shortly. Let's just say the battery is good, for the time being. The reason I say that is because, regardless of the battery's health, I'm still curious as to the answers to my original questions, i.e. how the charging system works. thanks

My brother and I have almost identical 91 Winnebago Coaches and he just returned from a trip to Yellowstone yesterday (he stores his unit at my place) and when he brought it in, his coach battery was on it's last breath. It is my understanding that the coach battery is either charged by the Engine Alternator, while the engine is running, or, by AC shore power (or on board generator). I'm curious, does the engine/alternator, when running, charge the coach battery directly or does the "power" go through the converter/battery charger then to the battery? If the engine/alternator charges directly, how does it do it? If not, how does that indirect route do it? I'm not, nor is my brother, an electrician, but most the time were able to use logic and the power of deduction to figure "most" reasonably simple things out. I put a voltage meter on the truck batter and when the alternator kicked in the voltage eventually jumped to 14 plus, so the alternator is working. However, the voltage at the positive and negative cables at the coach batter started out (when engine was running) at 7.5 volts, then a little bit later, 3.6 volts, then a little bit later (10 minutes or so) 7.5 volts again. Would that indicate a short somewhere in the wiring? Same thing happened when hooked to AC shore power. Does both the AC power and Engine alternator power go through the on board battercharger/converter? Am I making sense, here? I suspect there is either a short in the wiring or the converter has an issue or the battery charger has an issue or both have an issue or the issue is all three. Am I getting warm on this? Any suggestions, comments, questions to my questions, (or, if I need to be more specific in some area) would be a help. Thanks Jeffrey

" the 4runner/truck SR5 seats from 1989~1995 will just bolt right in for you" http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3985

"Did you notice the part in the video where the price quoted for one month of groceries on this diet was $400.00? Not exactly an affordable option for most people to do this diet unless you have a garden to grow your own fresh food. But one thing I do know about raw food diets, you have to be extremely careful and get the fruits and veggies washed very clean. I had a neighbor die of E-coli from juicing. " Regarding the $400 price. in my opinion, and experience, one can't afford not to spend the money. I guess it comes down to priorities. For me personally, good health means everything. I don't get sick anymore, haven't in a long, long time. I literally watch everything that goes in. And with my perceived "good" health I find that my life is so much easier and fun because physical issues are minimal; no ill health bills, i.e. I haven't been to a doctor in 20 or 30 years (can't even remember) and I'm certain it's because I watch my diet, get daily exercise, get plenty of rest and focus on a veritable kaleidoscope of "preventative" measures to stay ahead of the game. But back to the $400 figure you mentioned. Wholesome, organic, non-gmo, fresh foods unfortunately aren't cheap. But with the money I believe I am saving from being in good health (no doctor bills), I'm able to buy those groceries that prevent ill health. So, as I see it, it's a trade off. Besides, from my point of view, a can't think of anything better to do with my hard earned dollars than to spend it on working at being healthy. For some reason, though, I don't think my philosophy is the norm (unfortunately). Regarding your point on veggies gardens. EVERYBODY, or least those with the land for it, should have an organic garden. It should be mandatory, i.e. those who want good health. Nothing like going out to the garden and picking veggies that are still "alive" when one eats them. Regarding your friend who died from E-coli. I don't know anything about that person so I can't comment on them and what happened to them, but I can say this. As one's physiology gets stronger, and the immune system works better and more efficiently, various "bad" bacteria have a harder time of "infecting" the body when cells are functioning optimally (or close to it). I wash organic veggies that I get from the store, but unless the veggies I pick out of the garden or the fruits aren't dirty, I'll throw them in the juicer right off the tree. In fact, I've been picking our apples (no chemicals on them) and juice them straight away. Couple of worms here and there are added protein, LOL. Anyway, maybe I have an unusual digestive tract that seems to devour anything and everything, but I suspect it's because it's running on almost all cylinders. But you are right, veggies should be cleaned and I just happen to not to be too concerned about scrubbing food with a brush and soap. I do think that weak immune systems are vulnerable to all kinds of bacteria, so when in doubt, wash'em. Anyway, if one can juice veggies from their own organic garden, that's the way to go. We've got a green house and that helps in the colder months. Got Kale growing in it now.

If so, you're probably not alone in America. Over eating and over extended "tummies" are quickly becoming the norm in this country, along with a plethora of dis-eases associated with poor eating habits. But even if one finds oneself caught in this vicious cycle of food addictions, I'm here to tell you that the body is amazing piece of cosmic technology and no matter how much abuse and ridicule that's poured in it and on it, it has the remarkable capacity to heal itself if given the right amount of time and "ingredients" to overcome the "minds" self inflicted punishment. With obesity in America running rampant, along with the associated diseases, a timely and amazing documentary made in 2010 by an Australian fellow named "Joe", addresses issues he had with his weight and a skin disorder. He decided to go on a "Fresh Juice" fast for 60 days. What happens during these 60 days, and who he encounters, is presented in this inspiring and uplifting film. No matter what one's condition is, even if one "thinks" one has passed the point of no return, there's always hope to turn things around, and this film is proof of that. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ia-gi9IQzSs

When I lived in Crestone Colorado (elevation 8'000') a few years ago, I spent some winters there in an older '63 Airstream. Insulation in that seemed non-existent. I used two Wave 6's in it. It got to minus 20 and ice would form on this inside walls from the condensation, as John so eloquently described, from these heaters and me and my pets. Personally, I think these are great heaters. I've been thinking about installing one of my two in my '91 Winne Warrior but I'm not sure where. It has the legs but also can be mounted on the wall. Either way, might be a tight fit. Might have to sit on the floor, just inside the door, facing inward. Or, where the bathroom door is when pulled out. I guess I could hang it, although that might be a hassle. Then, there's the propane hose. I could bring that up through the floor somewhere since I have a "Y" off a propane line underneath the tank compartment with a quick release fitting attached (for an external tank). "So the more "soft" surfaces you have to radiate back the heat, the better. I was thinking carpeting would probably hold and radiate that heat better than vinyl." Actually, radiant heat does better in heating an area when the mass around it is denser, like a brick. The brick "holds" the heat, once it gets heated, much longer than your carpet or "soft", as you put it, surface. It just takes longer to warm the mass. 3 ways to heat something. Radiation, Convection and Conduction. Radiation: Energy is transfered by electromagnetic radiation, e.g. sun radiates heat (like wave 3/6 heater) to the earth. Ceramic heater uses Convection (energy is transfered by the mass motion of molecules) e.g. when there is a "fan" connected to a heater, although the ceramic material also radiates heat. A radiant floor utilizes Conduction (energy is transferred by direct contact) (floor heats from hot pipes) and when the floor gets hot it radiates to other forms of mass, but not the air. That's why with "radiation" objects are warm but air is cool, somewhat. Whereas, heat from convection warms the air, but objects generally aren't warm except closer to the heat source. Now if you could just build a small kachelofen...

I would think it's a combination of: 1. Weight of person walking on roof 2. Where that person steps 3. Condition of MH I've spent considerable time on two, both in excellent condition, walking in bare feet, avoiding skylights/antenna/vents, and, at 6' and 165 lbs, found them both to be quite stable. However, I would think, if one is on top of a MH that has had issues in the form of rot walls and or ceiling, I certainly wouldn't take a chance. And, they can rock sideways, so one wants to be careful in that regard. Plus, a little water up there can create a very slippery surface on the smooth exposed metal. These coaches aren't exactly made of steel, either. I wouldn't lean a ladder against one and I'd make sure a step ladder is high enough up so I can avoid putting any weight on the trim running on the edge of the sides. Also, I would suggest staying off the front area where the upper bed is, at least two or three feet from the front edge. Remember to walk slowly and stay focused up there. It's about 9 and a half feet down.

and this

Done a lot of racing on road bikes and of course, drafting is essential, can reduce output 30% of output of lead bike, if one want's to be on the podium or at least finish the race with the leaders. AND, in training I've drafted off of 4 wheel vehicles more than once ;-0, however, need I say, this is crazy? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wb7JJlvXTfc then there is this

When I read the (above) posts about "drafting" I thought to myself "holy sheet", no way. Now I'm not suggesting to those who draft, not to draft, however, even though my rig is great, top to bottom, the brakes aren't anything like my Tundra's or other vehicles that i've owned. In fact, the brakes seem to be the weak link of this motor home. When I was driving on my trip from Western Washington to Colorado and back early last month, a few times I found myself unintentionally in the tail end of a semi's slipstream and found myself getting sucked in. But I know if some heavy braking were to take place in front of me, I'm not so sure I'd want to "slam" on the brakes, and/or, what the outcome might be. Anyway, I have to second, or I guess "third" Bob c and Straygoose. I'll draft in a bicycle race, but that's it. Besides, to tell you the truth, and I'm not suggesting truck drivers are "bad people" in any way, but I don't like semi's. In fact, I disdain them. They all are generally, but not always, speeding. And speeding can be very dangerous. Not to mention, I don't think they appreciate it when someone "legally" is in their way, i.e. going over the minimum but under the maximum speed. I always give them plenty of room when they come roaring by, and I've noticed some like to "buzz" me, come up close from behind then slide around, as if to say "I'm bigger than you are, BUDDY"! I'm sure there's a lot of great truckers out there but even if my brakes allowed me to stop on a dime, I'd never temp a trucker's "emotional capacity" by drafting off them. Who knows what mind altering substance might be in their bloodstream.

The benefits of having a ToyHome, or as far as that goes, any RV, but especially the Toy for it's "camel" like fuel efficiency and noted dependability, is having it as a "second" home, i.e. one with all the primary amenities needed for living in relative comfort while navigating in and around an adverse and unpredictable landscape. Whether to out run (at a casual pace) an impending storm bearing down on ones region, e.g. "Sandy", or to move into if ones primary home is possibly damaged or leveled, from either a natural or man-made disaster, it's an invaluable asset that one can't afford not to have. I've mentioned (in other posts) that I'm finishing up a solar system on our rig, in addition to an external propane hookup so our setup will give us added flexibility if our RV should be called into some form of permanent, short term duty. We've got plenty of provisions in our primary home to ride out a veritable kaleidoscope of storms, but today I basically duplicated, on a smaller scale, filling our rv with the basic necessities to support myself and my girlfriend and our pets, if the need should arise. I don't consider myself a "survivalist". Those days (back in the 20th century) are long over with. However, being "prepared" for a number of potentially volatile situations, revolving around an economy/society teetering on what I perceive as "the brink", is only natural considering how the insanely ludicrous mindset is of todays demented politicians, from BOTH sides, top to bottom. Add to that the potential of a natural disaster and our Toy Home, as back-up, is looking sweeter, by the minute.

So, for anyone who is interested, I asked a similar question at another ToyHome site. Here are some responses... Howdy We're looking for a dependable cover for our '91 Toy Warrior. We live in a wet climate, NW Washington State, and are willing to pay for whatever it takes to keep our rig dry and comfortable. Whatever the price might be, it's worth it to us to protect our Toy home. What do you recommend? What do you have? Brand, model and size (LxWxH) would be helpful. Thanks ---------------------------------------------------- http://www.nationaldiscountcovers.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=GLRVC2022 copy and paste into browser i don't have one but others are using this site to pick one. ------------------------------------ I keep mine indoors for the winter. I tried the smallest ADCO Class C cover on my previous Toyhome and it was WAY too big. Not sure if the manufacturer packed the wrong size in the box, but I returned it. ---------------------------------------- This is the one I bought last year: http://www.empirecovers.com/rv_covers.aspx?rvTypeId=3&size=RVC-B&source=search It actually is made by Bugge, the car cover makers. It has 2 sets of adjustable tighteners both front & back, along with tie downs to either go over the coach or under. It was about 6" too wide on each side, but that allowed it to go all the way to the ground. Length was perfect. And it has zippers to open up both the driver & passenger doors as well as the coach door. If you put a large ball/bag of styrofoam pellets on top to allow moisture to drain off easier, it'd be perfect. I keep my 92 Itasca 321RB under cover in a pole barn that does have a few leaks & gets wind, and it stayed dry. I use it as well to keep it clean as the ranch is pretty dusty. It's very lightweight and is easy to put on, off. I noticed no wear after a year, and the price is right! ---------------------------------------- We also live Western Washington (Bothell) and can relate to 'wetness' issue. Started with tarp and more tarp, but ended up with more permanent solution: Metal carport. For less money and perpetual replacements of various fabric/canvas materials, we've found it's efficacy far exceeds the alternatives. ----------------------------------------- Covers are temporary and not very good in wet of snowy areas. carports are more permanent (metal or tube and tarp type) Inside storage is the best. http://www.toymike.com/toyhouse/DONE.jpg ---------------------------------------- I'm very happy with mine: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-campers/photos/album/1432968488/pic/109 2939162/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc It is 12 x 20. Siding is actually 20 1/2' end to end. A tad short but I didn't have the south end enclosed. I hang a tarp there which gives me a little lee way. If I'd had more cement slab I would have had it longer but the slab and pampas grass bush were already there and I needed the clearance between it and the fence so this is what I settled on. The Rader is 21' and sticks out a tad. Hind sight tells me I should have had them enclose the south end down to just above the nose of the Rader, then I could have used a short tarp (be easier to put up) but I think they would have wanted to put up a center post which would have defeated my purpose. The tarp rubbed the nose of the RV and before I noticed it rubbed a little paint off so I am now touching that up and this is what I have come up with to solve the problem: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-campers/photos/album/1432968488/pic/100 6967733/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc A little rinky-dink but no one can see it but me. If you have room, get it long enough. I can't remember the cost exactly. Seems like it was around $1000, $1200? Can't remember for sure but you can go to those websites and it will tell you how to calculate exactly what you want.

Might have a direct bearing on covering outside "cooling" air for your radiator, i.e. many Toy Homes (maybe it's just the V6's) already have an issue with the possibility of overheating. I wouldn't want to press my luck having it mounted there. I'm assuming you mean on the front bumper. (Not top of the hood, like my '67 Land Rover 109 Safari might be cool)

I just drove 2800 miles, Colorado and back, and got 16 mpg. ('91 Winne Warrior with V6) I was able to get what I believe were decent miles per gallon because I didn't "punch it" (except maybe 3 times for just a few seconds each time) and I hardly used my brakes (stop, go, stop, go), except going down long, steep descents. I went as slow as 40 up some very steep ascents. I pulled off the road if a couple or more cars got behind me on single lane portions of the highway. But most importantly I made sure I kept the speed inside "the sweet spot" window; between 51 and 54, but mostly at 53. Some people believe these speeds are too slow, possibly because money is not an issue for them so higher speeds aren't an issue for them, or, they need to get to their destination within a certain time frame, or, they feel a certain need to conform and stay with or almost up with the speeders or, they're just plain impatient. I believe I've seen a sign on I-5 that reads "Minimum Speed 45". So, keep it above that and all is legally well. But if you truly want to save gas and not go under the minimum speed limit, you need to learn to be mellow at the wheel. Just get into the far right lane, and stay in the right lane, and keep an eye in the mirror for safety sake, and sit back and enjoy the "moment" and literally allow the opportunity to unwind nice and easy while being present, i.e. not overshadowed by an insatiable need or desire to keep up with the masses who, by the way, are generally wired by time and wanting to get from point A to point B with the least about of discomfort possible. The choice is yours. I-5 should be at least a 16 mpg adventure if you want it to be. If you were getting 11, I suspect you were pushing it. Remember, don't punch it. Keep it in the sweet spot (window) and play some easy listening music to keep you contained and happy. Happy driver, happy ToyHome.

or, if you road out the storm at home, how'd you, your family and your MH fair? (I suspect if you thought your rig potentially might leak, this would have been THE Test.) I've been reading, not necessarily from MSM, how catastrophic things are on the coast, especially in Jersey, and beyond. And how the situation may get considerably worse, still. I've always got gear and grub in ours just in case any number of "turbulent" (natural or man made) events take place, and we have to move out of our home, into the rig.

Thanks 90TD and Vman.

Thanks Totem, I was thinking about the dual angle but it seems as though it would be easier with a straight shot.

@DuN Seems strange that they'd sell Toy Homes without spares. The weight thing seems secondary to the fact that what does one do if one drives out of the dealers with a new rig and a half an hour later sitting high and dry on the side of the freeway with a flat and no way to fix it. Thanks for the link. Looks like I have to rig up something underneath. Not sure I want a spare on the bumper. (side note: my valves seem pointed in, away from outside, on my dualies, How does one add more air? Are they on "backwards" or does it take one of these air nozzles that has the double end to it?)

I've got a '91 Warrior that came without a Spare. I have yet to purchase one, even though the tires were new when I got it, and still are basically close to that condition. Even so, I know I'm treading on thin ice every time I take it out for a spin (2800 mile trip 3 weeks ago, knock on wood), anyway, what I'm wondering is... Did all toyota motor homes come with a spare when they came off the assembly line? Did each coach model have a different location? Where was the spare attached? Underneath? On the bumper? There doesn't seem to be any place underneath where one ever was attached. My friends recently bought a '93 toy home and have a spare on their bumper, but the set-up doesn't look like like an OEM. There does appear to be a location where a spare was mounted underneath on the frame. A bracket of some sort but that's it. Mine doesn't have a bracket in the same place because there is a propane pipe running perpendicular, attached to the frame and almost underneath that "heavier" cross member frame that my friends bracket was attached (they didn't have the same propane pipe crossing there). I have all the original manuals and nothing shows where the spare is except for the Toyota owners manual that shows it under "the bed". PS I'll be purchasing a spare before the "home" goes out again.

I live about an hour from where it's located. If I head up there, if it's still available, I'll take a look at it. Anyone get a reply from seller yet?

Yes, I agree. Roof with walls and heated would be ideal. Carport would keep the water and other elements off top side. thanks

Hey MontereyDave, I'm surprised no one is covering their Toyhomes, here. How did that tv ad go? "You can pay me now or, you can PAY me later"? With all the horror stories, generated even at this site, regarding that "one little leak that turned into a tsunami that gutted my coach and cost me thousands" has me willing to fork out $429 to make sure I avert any danger before it begins. I think I've got it narrowed down to this one for the many reasons the "reviewers" came up with. I don't want mold or anything other than the shiny, clean RV that I covered at the end of the season and opened again when the warm, sunny days re-emerge come spring time. This one is suppose to be good and in the next week I'll be making the final decision. Let me know what you think or what you end up getting for your rig. http://www.nationaldiscountcovers.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=GLRVC2022 Click on the reviews, too.