getout
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Everything posted by getout
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I've seen pictures of the voltage regulators and have a decent idea of where they go in the system. I suck at soldering though so that might get interesting. If I'm understanding correctly, I've got a few options: Use a LM7805 and a 50 ohm, 2W resistor Use just the LM7805 Use just a NTE960 Price wise it looks like maybe only $1 a piece or so between the options though the NTE960 seems more expensive. I'll be doing about 18-24 lights. What's best/difference?
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I don't know about removal. Mine didn't have the stove or oven installed when I bought it so I had to get this from the classifieds. If you want the cooktop but don't want the stove, I'd probably just look for a stand-alone cook top. I don't doubt that you could cut this up and re-install it so it was just the cooktop, but it seems like it would be a huge mess. There's a bunch of insulation around the stove box. I'll take a look at mine when I'm home later and snap some pictures for you if you want to see how the top is connected to the bottom. I'm pretty sure this is similar to what was used in the sunraders but I know it's the 'the one' that was actually installed.
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Sweet. Thanks for the info. I'll give it a shot.
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Trying to do some inside stuff while it's cold out. First, if you know anything about trying to wire some AAA LEDs for 12V, please take a look at my post in the electrics section: http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5612 I've been doing some wet sanding of the stainless stove/oven I got from a guy. It's cleaning up pretty well. I still have a ton to do on it though. Mostly before shots: One shot after:
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I bought some LED puck lights from Costco that I like because they're remote controlled and they can be individually pushed on and off. The only problem, they're powered by 3 AAA batteries and I don't want to be changing batteries all the time. I'm trying to figure out how to wire them so they can run off the 12V system. If there are some Electrical Engineers out here, a little help would be greatly appreciated. Or you can just tell me I'm crazy and this won't ever work. I thought I'd try though. Here's what I know: The 3 AAA batteries in series produce 4.76 Volts and the current is 112.8 Mah when one light (set of five LEDs) is on. I used some online calculator that told me to go from 12V to this system, I would need a 2W, 68 ohm resistor. I thought I could run that and a 12V linear regulator to make this work. I haven't tried it yet because the resistors are special order. Cheap, but I thought I'd ask if this all makes sense before I spend a week waiting for parts I won't use. Here are some pictures: Thank you all!
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Must have been from here: http://www.openboxdirect.com/Edgestar-80-Qt-Portable-Fridge-Freezer-FP861SD/FP861SD,default,pd.html?cgid=Appliances-Scratch_and_Dent I should have read more but I don't think I'd want anything bigger. I'm putting mine under the small bench that will be behind the driver seat. Any taller and it wouldn't be sit-able.
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Holy smokes. I breezed through the thread but apparently didn't read it well enough. Where'd you score that from? I thought I got a good deal on mine at $325.
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So, I got really concerned after reading everyone's responses to the flooring insulation question and I started thinking I had forgotten what the floor was made of since it's been so long since I've been out in the Toyota. Apparently I had MDF on the brain from another house project I was doing. I braved the cold this evening to go look again and take some pictures. It's an 3/4" OSB (not MDF...sorry) and that's it. The little strands are fiberglass from earlier work but I think you can still make out the OSB pattern. Still too cold for me to be interested in actually doing anything out there, but I did buy this over the weekend for it...eventually. A 63 qt edgestar portable fridge. Have it plugged in testing it out. Thanks for all the input! Eventually you'll get some pictures the sunrader getting put back together...after the snow melts some.
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Hello all, Sorry it's been a while. It's cold and we've been working on a bunch of other house projects indoors. Question for everyone: what should I do about insulating the floor? As mentioned in the previous post, it's just thick mdf. I thought about laying down some foam board insulation between a wood slats every couple feet and covering it all with another ply but I don't know if the loss of interior height and minimal insulation is worth the work. Any thoughts?
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I don't know yet. I just finished reading all the responses to your other post. My floor is just a few pieces of mdf - about 1" thick. I'm thinking about covering it with something insulated and then flooring on top but haven't made a decision yet. I've still got holes to fill first, and then cover. I think you're moving much faster than I'm going to be able to.
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Sorry to screw up the trend. It's a 1990 Sunrader...which also looks like about the newest on the list as well. Young owner and young toy (relatively speaking of course).
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I'm 29 with a 3 year old, 1 year old, and one on the way. We got the toy because people this small need some space on trips on any distance, setting up and taking down tents in the cold and rain with kids isn't a lot of fun, and separate sleeping areas is a must. Plus, now that we've got one using the toilet, having one close is nice.
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What are the cabinets and interior walls attached to inside a Sunrader?
getout replied to Stevo's topic in General Discussion
This is the one where I got my 'inspiration.' It's worth looking through as well. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=206 -
What are the cabinets and interior walls attached to inside a Sunrader?
getout replied to Stevo's topic in General Discussion
Be careful or you'll end up with this on your hands. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5249 Most hard mounting seemed to come from the floor. Lots of screws into the ground. Not much glued to the walls. The window frames seemed to hold the walls with their foam insulation in place. There were some screws into the fiberglass but not many and not very deep. Thinking about it, I'm not sure how it survived the dirt roads we took it down. It seemed like I'd pull out a few screws and entire sections of cabinets or wall pieces would just fall off. Maybe there was glue and it gave up. -
I've put the glassing on hold until the budget can recover and until the weather is more cooperative. All the pieces are glassed from the interior so they're not going anywhere. I stuck the windows back in temporarily and covered the top in plastic so I can start working on the interior through the winter. I made some extra support for the back on the driver side where the wood was sagging so much and where I need to fill the hole where the generator box was. The neighbors were throwing away a futon bed frame and the steel is the same gauge as what's holding the floor so I figured it would work for support. I ended up having to cut out the middle support after I welded it in place because it didn't touch the frame. I put one back in now that it's in place. I used two bottle jacks to push the floor up and into place, then welded the supports to the frame. Now the floor is about as flat as it's going to get back there. Slowly but surely this thing will come together. It's just going to be a while.
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I'll have to ask for sure when I'm back at the shop but you're probably right. Where do you get your West System from? It always seems super expensive.
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Yep. Just pulled them out to tear off the carpet and foam, grind off the rust, paint, and reinstall with a new steel support structure above. Installed, it feel much stiffer than the wood that was there before. I'm pretty sure it's epoxy. The fiberglass shop I got it from said I could glass at colder temperatures as well by adding additional hardener. From what I've read though, increasing the amount of hardener isn't always a good thing but I think it will have to work because I've got a lot more to do and it's supposed to get colder soon. I got all the interior parts glassed. Some good and others ok. There's only one window section I'm really worried needs some structural integrity. I'm going to spend some extra time when I glass it from the outside. I've now got itchy arms because I was messing around today without my jacket. Not a good plan. Before: After:
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Got a good bit done yesterday and today during the afternoons and evenings. Also did my first glassing (one little hole on the roof). Pulled the roof support bars off. Took the air conditioner off. That was a huge pain. Had to cut the gasket all the way around with a sawzall. Got all the 'plugs' cut from the shower and held into place with wood (not pictured yet). More to come over the next couple days. Pictures here: http://postimage.org...myfb2/10d4c52f/
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They're carriage bolts that go through the shell which I think I have to remove in order to remove the supports. They haven't leaked yet but I also don't think they've ever been taken out. We'll see how that goes. This week is supposed to be mid to high 50's so it looks like this is the week to get a good bit of glassing done. Conveniently I've got some time off work so I'm hoping to get a lot done. The ceiling foam was a lot like floral foam. The only leaks were around the waste water tanks. Those are going to get sealed up. Gas filler? For the truck gas tank? That's under the floor and doesn't pass through the shell at all. Did yours go through the camper? Propane is under the rear passenger side. The hole in the back was for a house battery. I'm going to throw two batteries attached to the frame under the camper. Ideally, some future version of this beast will get a hatched rear window like a truck tailgate. I think I'll put that off until the basics are done and this thing is usable again, but I the large hatch would be a nice way of getting larger objects in and out of the camper. That's great. Now it's got me thinking about insulation options. I'm pretty fixed on the FRP idea. I don't know that we're putting carpet anywhere in the camper section. Out of curiosity though, how do the walls feel when you push against them? Any give? Have they held up ok with just carpet over foam? Thanks to everyone for all the feedback and helping me keep motivated. Hopefully I'll have some progress to show before this next weekend is over.
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I don't have a yahoo account so I can't see the pictures. Could you post them on the forum somewhere? The tear out has been the easy part for sure. Last night I just stood in the shell trying to figure out the next steps. I think if I can get all my glass work/hole patching done, I can spend the rest of the winter working on interior stuff - floor, ceiling, then walls. I've been really worried about that but knowing that I now have some responsibility to the forum to finish, a relatively simplistic design, and the need/desire to at least have it usable by spring makes me pretty motivated.
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Bought a work light today so I got some pictures of the back about empty. I think the next step is to finalize an interior design and start glassing some holes. It's really cold here though so I think I'll have to glass on the inside and run a heater against the areas to allow them to cure.
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We've got (now had) the dinet that turned queen in the back but the problem was two little girls 'sleepling' (term used loosely) in the same bed together. They just wanted to play and not sleep, so we have to separate them. I like the idea of the U shape. We could just add another piece in the middle/back section and add a seat to it. Not sure about the table yet. I really don't like the single leg into a hole in the floor.
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That's a great idea. It feels like one of those 'duh' moments because I never even considered it. It would be a lot easier to build a thinner, stationary shelf above than some extra, free floating bunk. Our girls are used to sleeping on the ground from camping and honestly, most of the time we won't be completely full in the back except on some types of trips. This one was a struggle for us and still is. We've typically let them roam free/semi-contained in the big bed area in the back. For sure, not a safe solution at all, but I also figured that the little steel bar with the seat belt bolts glassed to the back walls wasn't going to save anyone either. Honestly, this is a topic probably best argued in it's own thread but I don't know that with the glass sunrader shell, we'll ever feel like our kids are completely safe back there.
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Finding free places back east seems difficult. I was in high school in Georgia and we managed to camp/sleep in parking lots often, but we also weren't terribly worried about the consequences of getting kicked out in the middle of the night and somehow managed to never get tickets (probably because we were young). We also didn't have an RV or generator so we were a bit more incognito as we slept in the back of the 4runner or just on the ground next to it somewhere. There were a bunch of tent camping places that it seems like you could pay that wouldn't include hook-ups and you could just use your generator there. I don't know the rules at most places like that but I do know it's usually cheaper to get a tent site than an RV site.
