fred heath

Just a footnote for U.S. folks. Due to 9/11 you are now required to have a valid passport to enter Canada. Drivers license alone will no longer work.

Found a 1991 winne 21ft with 92k for $8500. Vehicle located in Fayetteville NC. Posted on the Fayetteville CL. Unable to copy link with my phone. Looks good in the pictures.

Auxiliary Accelerator Pump Diaphragm (AAP) The auxiliary accelerator pump diaphragm (AAP) is located at the front base of the driver's side of the carb. It has three screws and one vacuum line. To check if it is bad, simply pull off the vacuum line and look and smell for fuel. If there is gas in the line, the diaphragm is punctured or cracked and should be replaced. I have heard of people simply plugging the vacuum port and being fine, although your idle/take off may stumble a little when cold. All the AAP does is squirt a little extra fuel into the mixture when the engine is cold. It has no effect on the engine when warm - even when not working properly. The AAP is vacuum operated - when vacuum is applied the diaphragm opens which then adds a little extra fuel. The vacuum is applied by the BVSV which is screwed into a water jacket on the head. This senses the temperature of the coolant and applies or does not apply vacuum to the AAP. A new diaphragm comes with any rebuild kit or can be purchased from the dealer and maybe from some aftermarket parts stores

This pump is specific to the asian 2bbl. carb Steve has on his toy. Its purpose is as I stated. I'm sure it means other things for different applications. The easiest check is to pull the vacuum hose off the unit. If there's raw fuel inside, the guts have to be replaced. I owned 2 Chevettes (76&78) and 1 1981 truck. All used this carb and I never had any problem with performance or mpg. It's a personal choice for me.

JD.... The purpose of the AAP is to add extra fuel to the mix when the engine is cold. It's vacuum operated from the BVSV which senses the temp. of the coolant and applies vacuum if needed. It has NO EFFECT on a warm engine. Maineah hit the first obvious thing to check. These carbs are tricky to rebuild. But if one piece from a $25.00 kit fixes the problem,its better than buying a new carb. I chose the Rochester 1bbl. because it is very easy to work on. They used these carbs in Chevettes,Vega's and 6 cylinder trucks. Never heard of any problems with them. Eventually I'm adding a GM 1 wire alternator and a DUI distributor. My goal is to make my toy bulletproof. If I break down on the side of the road I know I should be able to fix it.

I have the same carb. I bought the rebuild kit for about $25.00 at a local chain store. Unless your really good at this forget it. The are so many small parts I was pulling what few hairs I have left. One thing this carb does have is an enrichment diafram for cold starts. It basically adds extra fuel when starting cold. It sounds like this may be your issue. My diafram was dry rotted. This piece does come in the kit and is mounted to the outside of the carb facing the front. My opinion is these carbs are junk. I'm retrofitting a simple Rochester 1bbl. To my 1978 20R. My state is not anal on emissions with a vehicle so old. I still have smaller left over parts from the carb. rebuild. I replaced what I could. JD and Waiter would probably have more specific information if this is not the problem. Good luck. Fred OK I went back and checked my book. Its been over a year since my rebuild. The book identifies it as the auxiliary accelerator pump. It's vacuum operated and secured to the front of the carb body by 3 screws. Inside is the diaphragm and spring. I only found it was bad by accident. When I pulled the vacuum hose off raw fuel actually came out of the hose. I'm sure it has other functions beside cold starting. First check all your vacuum hoses to ensure they've good. Then try the kit and see what happens. If it works, it's a cheap fix.

My 1978 toy came with P195-14 passenger tires on all 6 wheels. I have the 20R with 4 speed. The tires were dry rotted a bit but still used them locally for about 1000 miles. My rig weighs in at about 4200 lbs. I upgraded to the Hankook RA08's and what a difference in ride and handling quality. One thing that concerned me about the rear duels was the spacing between inside and outside wheels. The two tires were almost touching each other (p-metrics). I looked for LT truck tires before buying the Hankooks. Closest size in 14" was LT 215. Too large for my rig. They were special order too. My advice is go with the Hankook or similar load rated tires. The investment is well worth it.

Off the snow subject a bit. I carry a short section of 5/4 (true 1 inch) x 4 next to my jack. It's beveled on both ends and about 24" long. If your outside duel should go flat, position wood by the inside duel and drive it up and onto the wood. You can now remove the o/s wheel without jacking the rear axle off the ground. Makes roadside changes real easy.

Sounds like you need a second opinion. Without taking a ride, I would check my front tires. What your describing sounds a lot like a "bubble" in the tread. When the plies break (usually from impact) a lump forms on the tread. If not, waiter or JD will probably have the answer.

Sounds like a good trip. I left NH on Dec 29 headed to Raleigh,NC. Hit major snow storms in Conn.and PA. The traction as you stated was great. The only problem I encountered was most of the weight is concentrated over the rear axle. In my case it made the front end very light. If I hit any icy patches I found it very challenging to keep the front wheels headed in the right direction. Other than that my toy is great in snow.

If it has the 20R engine, I'm looking for an intake manifold PM me with the price. Thanks, Fred

dumping the 2bbl.carb for a Rochester 1ME. Same carb they used on the chevette and 6 cyl.trucks. Will fabricate a base plate to mount to the Toyota manifold. I'm trying to make my toy as"bulletproof" as possible. The 2bbl Asian carbs are a real pita to work on.

JD: How did we get from discussing the inherent weakness of stainless screws to deck screws? I totally agree with you on the use of deck screws. Hang in there, warm weather is coming.

JD: TMI...... Karin said "weak" I said "soft". Didn't know we were splitting hairs here. I can't provide specs and pictures as you do. I do a lot of home improvement work. I prefer to use ss "trim head" screws to attach Azek trim boards. They are #2 square drive. Unless you want to predrill all your holes,you depend on the torque of the drill to drive the screw. ss screws tend to round over. Steel screws not at all. This is an observation made by me over time. I introduced it into this thread as an FYI. I am by no means an authority on ss screws. On a brighter note, how do you like this "cold snap" we're having?

Just a quick note on SS screws. Even with the square drive the have a tendency to "round over" when applied with a screw gun or drill. As Karin said, the metal is very soft. Usually happens when your about 3/4 of the way down. Hopefully you have enough screw remaining to use a small pair of vice grips to remove the damaged screw. Had it happen more times then I can count.

Hi Tony, and welcome to the best Toyota motorhome forum on the web. I'm looking for an intake manifold to fit a 1978 20R engine. I plan to do a carburetor conversion. If you have one, pm me with the price. Thanks. Fred

Plan on spending the next few months in N.C. Would be nice to meet other members of this forum. Drop me a PM so perhaps we can meet. Fred

I'm in NH. That sounds like a good deal. who are the underwriters? As far as theft deterrent, I wired a toggle switch to the ground wire for the fuel pump relay (carburetor). Should the thieves get it started, it will run a short distance then die. Hopefully in a well populated area. Can't see them hanging around to get it restarted.

I was with USAA but they don't cover Rv's so they sent me to Progressive who will insure Toyota motorhomes. one thing the USAA rep suggested I do was to take out a renters policy on the mh which would cover all your personal property, even the generator if stolen it's covered. My basic liability policy is about $128.00 per year with progressive. Didn't check price of full coverage. Might be worth a look. Just realized the original post is old. Insurance info is current.

Not sure with the later automatic transmissions but as a stopgap fix try manually downshifting on the big hills. Just remember to put it back in drive.

Derek, LMAO.

Sorry Linda, I have to jump in. Stamar: Your very insulting to members who have been on this site for a long time. You've been a member about 8 months and already have posted over 1100 responses. You claim to have read all archived posts and gleaned no useful information. It seems to me you enjoy starting controversy. I bet you're the kind of guy who blames other people for your inadequacies. I for one am really tired of reading your self-serving posts. If you're so disappointed with the quality of information on this site, I'm sure Yahoo may be a better venue for you. Give the rest of us a break for awhile.

The use of mineral spirits was recommended to me by the glass shop who evaluated my cab over window. I found it worked very well. As with any solvent you wash down the surface as soon as the silicon is removed. It did not affect the paint or stain the finish. I then applied a bead of "Phenoseal" adhesive caulk to the joint between the cab and coach. 6 months and still holding. The phenoseal will accept paint. I plan to eventually repaint the whole rig. Will keep you posted.

Derek, It's a long shot but the front buckets and fabric pattern are identical to mine. Think it could be a "Champion" mfg ?

I stand corrected. You're never too old to learn new things.