fred heath

This person is DREAMING. Maybe 1K tops. More like $500-700. I wouldn't mind buying the grill sections.

Check the pos feed to the horn. Run a jumper wire from the battery to the horn (+). Then try the horn button. Or place your voltmeter on the pos feed wire for voltage. Its fairly easy to run a new supply. Just be sure to install an inline fuse if you run from the battery pos.

Chances are it's the button wires under the horn ring. You have two recessed screws on the back side of the steering wheel (Phillips). Remove them and the front cover will detach. Check the wires for breakage and button for continuity. As a last resort, ground the feed wire to the metal steering column. The horn should work. If not it's in the power supply wire or the horn itself.

Thanks Karin.

I don't think it'll make a big difference. I just did it because they were accessible. Do the head bolts have the same thread as the sparkplugs? I saw only 1 tap in your post. Lucky my threads were all good. PM me with a contact # if you run into any problems.

90 spot RV campground in NC for $175K. Close to Ft. Bragg.

Found some carbon on #4 piston. Scraped off gentley being careful not to scrape the piston. Keep a shop vac running to catch any small pieces. Be sure to blow out your bolt holes with compressed air. Any liquid will throw off your torque settings and potentially crack the block. Manually hand thread each bolt into the block before you reinstall the head. They should go in smoothly with no binding. If not, chase the threads with a tap. Last, clean the mating surface of the exhaust manifold and header pipe. Put a new gasket in. It's much easier with the head off. Mine went back together fine and is running good.

I agree with John. Looks like a standard BBQ tank. Very dangerous on its side.

I had a problem with one of my two horn buttons not working. If your steering wheel is the same, remove the two screws on the backside of the steering wheel and check the connections for continuity or broken wires. Linda is correct on the fuse. It shares the brake fuse. If your brake lights work, the fuse is good. My vote is a bad wire or ground. If you have 4 headlights it's a 1978 chassis even if the model year is 1979. Checked the 1979 wire codes. The pigtail that attaches to the horn should have two wires. One grey (ground) and one green with white stripe (hot). The g/w should be hot all the time. When you push the horn button(s) it completes the ground circuit activating the horn. My book shows the haz-horn sharing the same 15A fuse. You may want to check the pigtail itself to make sure its not defective.

Just thought I'd throw this out. http://fayetteville.craigslist.org/bfs/3651673748.html Sorry, couldn't get the link to work.

My toy is on a 1978 chassis. Different body style but my horn is found behind the left headlight slightly above the bumper. It should be visible from under the front left. With horns it's usually a bad ground. You could remove it and bench test with a 12 volt battery. If the horn works, it's the fuse, relay, or buttons on the steering wheel. Personally, I would buy new and relocate to a more accessible spot.

Your town or city clerk should have that information when you register your vehicle. In NH it shows the list price and they depreciate by how old the vehicle is. Not sure about other states, but they have to use some method to value your vehicle for registration purposes.

make sure your rv dealer works on Onan generators, many do not. Also, did you check the two glass fuses on the outside panel near the start switch? One sends power to the pump. I have the 2.8 microlite with onan remote start and onan factory transfer switch.

As this is a Toyota forum, I think you'll find we're Toyota biased. I really know nothing about the Dodge product. My best advice is to read through the archives regarding things to look for. Most every question you might have should be answered there.

Depending on your engine you should have a block drain on the drivers side of your engine. On mine it's a 12mm bolt about half way up the rear of the engine. It works like your radiator drain. As your adding fluid through your T-stat housing open this valve up with a catch pan underneath. When you get a steady stream of fluid coming out, you've removed any air trapped in the water passages of the head. Retighten the bolt, continue filling as instructed by other posters. Good luck.

I agree with John. Check all your terminal connections on the heavy wire going from the converter to the coach battery. If all are good, physically check the wire itself for any breaks or wear through. Especially the areas where the wire passes through any openings.

Digital volt meters are very sensitive. Try with an analog meter and see if you have the same wonker readings.

I had a similar situation several months ago. It came back to a bad chassis ground on the coach battery. Worth a check.

Thanks Kim, On ours it's 12mm. It's the first bolt out, last bolt in.

I just did mine, and am awaiting parts. You can remove as a unit. A 1 ton engine crane makes the job easier. Remove the hood and use the factory engine slings. Your exhaust bolts are 14mm. Valve cover 12mm. Head bolts 17mm, cam bolt 19mm, crank bolt 19mm. 6 point sockets are the way to go. (12point will work). Engine hoist makes the job pretty easy if your working solo.

With shipping mine came to $32.00. I'm still waiting for them to be shipped from WA state. Sounds like you got the better deal.

Spoke with the company Tech this morning. The inexpensive set is 3mm shorter than the OEM factory set. The reason for the more expensive set was that extra 3mm was used on the 1975-80 20R. This company is Toyota specific,and tech told me there would be no problems with the cheaper set. They're a common use item. These bolts also work on the 22R and 22RE blocks. They are OEM.

While changing the head gasket on my 1978 20R I found one bolt was slightly bent. I went online and found two different bolt sets, both for the 20R. One set was $20.00 the other $63.00. The $63.00 set specified for 1975-80 OEM. The other set $20.00 was non specific but also OEM. Is there any real difference or can I use the cheaper set?

When I first redid my suspension I added 4 additional leafs per side. The unsprung lift was noticable but as soon as weight was applied (like you experienced) the ride height disappeared. Maybe an inch at best. Perhaps I should qualify my statement in terms of money spent vs desired goals. How many leafs would it take to get you to that magic 3" mark mentioned earlier? And over time that arch will depress even more as the springs stretch. 3" shackle extensions gave me 1.5 inches of body lift with no extra leafs or special hardware. With deep pockets I'm sure you could elevate the ride height to anything you wanted.

What ever...... Mine is real world too. I drive it every day. I evaluated adding extra springs be could see no advantage. You seem to have many projects going in your yard. Are any of them on the road? Knowing you need to have the last word, I'm done with this thread. Unlike you, my pencils come with erasers.