fred heath

Normally it would be. But it's got the "heavy duty" 5 lug. LOL (no such animal).

You're correct John. The relay comment earlier was a "hipshot". I suspect the blue line splice is the culprit.

The blue cap is a line splice. It's used to piggyback power from one wire to another. Chances are that's what causing your problem. Remove it completely. You do this by folding back the blue band that secures the two halves together. Then slide a small screwdriver inside and pry open. Pull the coppertab off the wire with a pair of pliers. At this point you may have to splice the wire together. Basically, I think the wire is broken inSide the tab. Or, make a new wire with a 1/4" spade terminal (insulated) to attach to the horn itself, snip the old wire at the connecter and splice together. The problem with using a meter in a case like this is you only need 1 or 2 strands of wire to get your 12V reading. I always recommend using a test light. Remember to pull your fuse first. That way if you accidentally ground the hot wire making the splice it won't blow the fuse.

http://www.oregon.gov/OSP/SFM/docs/Licensing_permits/LPG/OPDExemptions.pdf Found this online. Its from 2004 but a more recent update is probably available.

If the body is showing that much rust chances are the frame is in bad shape. Don't think its originally from NC. Or it was parked next to the ocean most of its life.

This person is DREAMING. Maybe 1K tops. More like $500-700. I wouldn't mind buying the grill sections.

Check the pos feed to the horn. Run a jumper wire from the battery to the horn (+). Then try the horn button. Or place your voltmeter on the pos feed wire for voltage. Its fairly easy to run a new supply. Just be sure to install an inline fuse if you run from the battery pos.

Chances are it's the button wires under the horn ring. You have two recessed screws on the back side of the steering wheel (Phillips). Remove them and the front cover will detach. Check the wires for breakage and button for continuity. As a last resort, ground the feed wire to the metal steering column. The horn should work. If not it's in the power supply wire or the horn itself.

Thanks Karin.

I don't think it'll make a big difference. I just did it because they were accessible. Do the head bolts have the same thread as the sparkplugs? I saw only 1 tap in your post. Lucky my threads were all good. PM me with a contact # if you run into any problems.

90 spot RV campground in NC for $175K. Close to Ft. Bragg.

Found some carbon on #4 piston. Scraped off gentley being careful not to scrape the piston. Keep a shop vac running to catch any small pieces. Be sure to blow out your bolt holes with compressed air. Any liquid will throw off your torque settings and potentially crack the block. Manually hand thread each bolt into the block before you reinstall the head. They should go in smoothly with no binding. If not, chase the threads with a tap. Last, clean the mating surface of the exhaust manifold and header pipe. Put a new gasket in. It's much easier with the head off. Mine went back together fine and is running good.

I agree with John. Looks like a standard BBQ tank. Very dangerous on its side.

I had a problem with one of my two horn buttons not working. If your steering wheel is the same, remove the two screws on the backside of the steering wheel and check the connections for continuity or broken wires. Linda is correct on the fuse. It shares the brake fuse. If your brake lights work, the fuse is good. My vote is a bad wire or ground. If you have 4 headlights it's a 1978 chassis even if the model year is 1979. Checked the 1979 wire codes. The pigtail that attaches to the horn should have two wires. One grey (ground) and one green with white stripe (hot). The g/w should be hot all the time. When you push the horn button(s) it completes the ground circuit activating the horn. My book shows the haz-horn sharing the same 15A fuse. You may want to check the pigtail itself to make sure its not defective.

Just thought I'd throw this out. http://fayetteville.craigslist.org/bfs/3651673748.html Sorry, couldn't get the link to work.

My toy is on a 1978 chassis. Different body style but my horn is found behind the left headlight slightly above the bumper. It should be visible from under the front left. With horns it's usually a bad ground. You could remove it and bench test with a 12 volt battery. If the horn works, it's the fuse, relay, or buttons on the steering wheel. Personally, I would buy new and relocate to a more accessible spot.

Your town or city clerk should have that information when you register your vehicle. In NH it shows the list price and they depreciate by how old the vehicle is. Not sure about other states, but they have to use some method to value your vehicle for registration purposes.

make sure your rv dealer works on Onan generators, many do not. Also, did you check the two glass fuses on the outside panel near the start switch? One sends power to the pump. I have the 2.8 microlite with onan remote start and onan factory transfer switch.

As this is a Toyota forum, I think you'll find we're Toyota biased. I really know nothing about the Dodge product. My best advice is to read through the archives regarding things to look for. Most every question you might have should be answered there.

Depending on your engine you should have a block drain on the drivers side of your engine. On mine it's a 12mm bolt about half way up the rear of the engine. It works like your radiator drain. As your adding fluid through your T-stat housing open this valve up with a catch pan underneath. When you get a steady stream of fluid coming out, you've removed any air trapped in the water passages of the head. Retighten the bolt, continue filling as instructed by other posters. Good luck.

I agree with John. Check all your terminal connections on the heavy wire going from the converter to the coach battery. If all are good, physically check the wire itself for any breaks or wear through. Especially the areas where the wire passes through any openings.

Digital volt meters are very sensitive. Try with an analog meter and see if you have the same wonker readings.

I had a similar situation several months ago. It came back to a bad chassis ground on the coach battery. Worth a check.

Thanks Kim, On ours it's 12mm. It's the first bolt out, last bolt in.

I just did mine, and am awaiting parts. You can remove as a unit. A 1 ton engine crane makes the job easier. Remove the hood and use the factory engine slings. Your exhaust bolts are 14mm. Valve cover 12mm. Head bolts 17mm, cam bolt 19mm, crank bolt 19mm. 6 point sockets are the way to go. (12point will work). Engine hoist makes the job pretty easy if your working solo.