a2ndopinion

I haven't opened it up to look, but would a new t-stat fix my issue? I don't think turning the knob is making a difference.

The problem with those spark plugs is that they are almost completely shrouded. The four ground electrodes close the area of the spark, restricting the flame travel once the spark has ignited the mixture. They might work great with a large amount of advance in a high compression engine that is much more subject to detonation (NOT pre-ignition), but can't do much on an engine like a late ('85+) 22R/RE that has closed chamber (faster burning) heads.

Was that on gas or electric?

If that's the case, how do they do when it's in the 90s?

Great idea Fred! Thank you!!

BTW, the fridge sits at about 22 degrees F.

Was it National's bright idea to put the t-stat straight across from the furnace? Two nights ago, it got down to 33 degrees, and with the furnace set at about 65 (actually 60 degrees - it's off by about 5 degrees), it was cycling about every 3 mins 40 seconds, both run time and off time. Is this a common issue? I'm tempted to move the t-stat to the end of the cabinet by the door, hoping that it will take longer for the t-stat to sense the temp increase so the furnace won't cycle so often. I'm also building a diverter to direct the heated air towards the front of the coach, as we (cats and myself) sleep up top.

To resurrect and hijack an old thread, I'm having the same problem on electricity. Our ambient temp has been between the lower 30s up to almost 60 here in the greater Portland, OR area since I moved into my '87 Dolphin. The fridge is an RM2400. I just turned the t-stat down to "OFF", then back on a minimal amount. I'll check the temp when I get back in this evening, but I'm getting tired of frozen liquids. Ideas?

I didn't look close at the valves this morning, and won't get back until late tonight. Are there valves so I can shut off/bypass the water heater?

Thank you for the quick reply! I figured as much. I think I'm going to go with a tankless heater then.

I didn't know if I should high jack this thread or start a new one. I just picked up my '87 Dolphin, and had checked all propane appliances beforehand, but didn't have water available. I found out this AM that water is leaking from the hot water tank. I haven't investigated really close, but don't see anywhere else around it the water might be coming from. And for a second question, Linda mentioned that the clean tank water will be coach "room temp" anyway... If I'm connected to city water, the shower cold water would the be the temp of the incoming water, right - not the temp of the water in the tank? I'm in Portland, OR, and the weather is getting a bit chilly.

It looks like the Bosch platinum +4 but as a +6.

I had an '82 for a few months that was a 300, but it needed more work than I wanted to do, so I let it go to get this one.

Obviously a 900. Thank you Linda S!!

How do I figure out which model Dolphin I have - 300, 500...? I'm a noob, and have "searched", but haven't found an answer. I just acquired an '87 21' Dolphin. I'll say hi in the "Where are you" thread soon.

I know the A40D isn't as strong as the A43D, but if in a pinch, which is kinda what I was assuming from the OP... I'm building an A43D for my Corona wagon with a higher stall converter, better clutches, modified valve body... The stock A40D doesn't like the built 2xR hybrid's increased power! jdemaris - I have found info saying there are some stock converters with different stall speeds depending on the application, although stall speed is relative to torque, and a 2 or 3TC in a Corolla doesn't have near the torque of a 20R, which has less than an early 22R, which has less than a later 22RE, and much less than a 5M, which all use an A4x_ trans.

I'm with jdemaris - spark plugs are spark plugs. People who tell you they feel a difference - it's in their head, just like those that run premium fuel when their engine only needs regular. I use iridiums in everything I own - '81 Toyota Corona 22R to my '95 Lexus LS400, and will be putting them in my newly acquired '87 Dolphin. The big advantage with iridiums is that they'll last well over 100,000 miles. That in itself is peace of mind to me, as I drive about 40k a year. I also live by the adage that "friends don't let friends use Fram", as I've seen and heard of engine failures when they fail. I prefer Purolator PureOne filters, as they have routinely been listed as one of the best in many studies, and I use the big (Ford type) filter on all of my 2xR/RE motors and in my Lexus (Purolator 30001), and only Valvoline oil (NAPA oil is made by Ashland - same stuff, and NAPA filters are Wix).

Lee & Joan - I'm going to assume that since you posted your question over two months ago that you've already had your trans issue resolved, but to answer your question, if you have a 22R/RE, the A40D out of a Celica or Corona ('81-'85) will work, but your driveshaft might be a couple inches too short. The A43D behind a 22R is only found in trucks, but your bellhousing could be substituted to an A43D out of a Supra or Cressida that used an M series engine.

Brake fluid should be flushed at least once every two years. Brake fluid is "hygroscopic" - that is, it absorbs moisture. That is what causes master cylinders, wheel cylinders and calipers to go bad - simple rust. As for bleeding brakes when alone, here's a trick. Fill the master cylinder, pump the brakes, then, in the usual "starting farthest from the MC, crack the bleeder loose, put a hose (vacuum line works great) on the bleeder, submerge the hose in a bottle with a little brake fluid in it, then go pump the pedal a few times. As the bubbles are forced out, fluid will be drawn back in. I've done it this way for many years.

Per my Dometic manual, "NOTE: After a replacement of the gas container or a long shut off period the gas line is likely to be filled with air. In such a case the lighting procedure has to be repeated until the air is pushed out of the line and the gas has reached the burner." This may be why you are unable to get it to light off. I had the same issue with the '87 I just bought. I still haven't gotten the furnace to light, but did finally get the water heater to light. The stove had the same issue, but only took about 30 seconds to light.

Rock Auto (.com) is a great place for online parts. Too bad you can't piece together the exhaust. A performance aftermarket cat, 2.25" pipe w/ mandrel bends, and a decent muffler, and you'd notice a performance and fuel mileage increase.

I agree with the heat in the bowl affecting fuel. Pedal to the floor may help. Also, this has a mechanical fuel pump, so may be vapor locking, although it should still start with the fuel in the bowl. I had a Corolla that after warmed up, driven and shut off would start, drive a few feet and die - like on top of the RR tracks one day (I was tempted to leave it).

You all are missing two numbers out of the tire size. The 185 is section width (widest portion of the tire) in MM, and 14 is the rim size in inches. In between those numbers is the series - 60, 65, 70, 75, maybe even 80. That is the profile - height of the sidewall in percentage to the width, which makes a huge difference in gear ratio, speedometer accuracy, fuel mileage and performance - just like changing rear gears.

Just buy a Weber DGEV 32/36 off of eBay - about $275, and you won't be disappointed!