shibs

I run soyshield made by Schaefer, but it is a pain in the u know where. I just buy good diesel now with good addy already in it or with good lubricity rating. Meijer diesel has Schaefer's addy, in summer I just buy 10 to 20 % bio every other tank, the truck smells better :-) soyshield costs 1.50 a tank

I thought you could use off road diesel as long as you had proof of payment of gas tax. I had plans to produce biodiesel to run on my duramax diesel and part of making your own diesel is you pay the gas tax, either estimated by miles driven/gas used. TX cops are notorious for giving out tickets cuz they can.

Sky, I will check out the pilot led marker lights. Totem, cool, I will get a set of the led bulb replacement set. Thanks!

Thanks , here in mi peak season rooms run nearly 300$ a night . Free is always good and even better when the view rocks

I am want to switch out the marker light and some of the internal lights to leds. Do they make led bulbs for switching these out? Thanks,

sure, http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Ftoyotamotorhome.org%2Fforums%2F%3Fact%3Didx&ei=U-tJVI-fHIuayQSM5oDoCQ&usg=AFQjCNGsiYWNrUJaEhIIWc5NuKzYBYEkRQ&bvm=bv.77880786,d.b2U I do a search in google for toyotamotorhome forum the first link is for toyotamotorhome.org/forums/?act=idx This is link to the above loooooooong url. first time I click on it, it will redirect, next time on it goes to toyoformindex fine.

ok, I will get the one available locally and do the marker lights with it to learn/practice. I will do the pinch test. I have generalrv few miles from the storage place but don't want to go down there and find out it is putty and not butyl. Lol, I hear you on age related memory loss, I have to write things down nowadays, kinda scary for me as I lost my dad to dementia.

will this work, http://www.menards.com/main/p-2369069-c-5713.htm or this one http://www.amazon.com/Colormetrics-Gray-Putty-Butyl-Single/dp/B00FHH7CG6 ?

jdfrost, I have to swing by sometime before the white stuff start coming down to take a peek at your build. I can't believe how much time you spent on the build. can you please tell me which plywood you picked for you build and where did you source them from? I went to menards wyoming and they had marine grade ply, it was 2x the price of regular ply. Also, how are you sealing the edges? Thanks,

Sky, I like the idea to use resin and fiberglass cloth, it will bond everything and add strength. I am sorry I did not quite follow the last paragraph. any pics? Thanks,

14 inch thick ceiling, in terms of insulation that is 10 inches more than what I probably have in my 60 year old ranch ;-). I am sorry to hear about the roof leak, you will probably need to add timber framing from the inside to support the load of the roof at the seam. Plex heating was probably done so the floor hold the heat and radiates it as you have vaulted ceilings. maybe adding a few fans to the roof will circulate the air and make it comfortable and save some heating expense. you want to some body with lotta mass, like concrete floor and then that radiates the heat slowly. ok, I will get polyiso, it is closed cell, I found it in lowes, I am not sure what i am going to use for the bottom and top layer to replace the rotting plywood for the cab. I am trying to understand how the cab was constructed.

Butyl Tape - can someone pls confirm that I need to get the gray butyl tape to reseal the windows and marker lights. Also, how many holes are behind each marker light? 2 holes for screws and 1 for wire?

I luuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuv those round port hole windows. Can ya buy round rv windows online?

I have not driven my Winnie enough to comment on mpg. my duramax diesel gets 20 mpg at 70 mph unloaded with my chunky u know what in it. same vehicle towing a Holiday rambler 30 ft camper get 14 mpg at 65 mph if I buy good diesel, truck+camper = 16000 lbs approx Is there a wind tunnel test for the Toyota cabover camper?

Jody, 4 days, wow, now that is fast, were the walls preforms? can I staple the pieces of wood in question to the foam board that is sitting next to it? Are you still working on your toy?

Dave, what kind of ply did ya use? and what the wood frame attached to at the rear/base of the base over? yes, I plan to get some butyl tape when I take my HR to flush out the grey and black at general rv. it wil rain again this week, so I have to wait to seal the front windows and marker lights.

jdemaris, No way, you live in a sips panel home, wow, that is soooo cool. Did you have it built from scratch? I am bit versed with sandwich panels being an engineer in my last life, I have been looking at energy efficient homes construction as a hobby. it was interesting to see how the winnie was put together. I plan to replace the foam boards with closed cell rigid boards. Any recommendation as to which one I should get, pink board? I don't really need the a/c as most of my trips will be during the cooler months. Will adding sqaure beams to the roof to add to the support from the inside be any good?

I had a 90 v6 camry and it had valve cover gaskets leaking, rad failed, pulsation damper failed, battery cable corroded, exhaust. but that sucker ran and ran and ran. it is still running today. under powered, yes a bit, fuel efficient? I think for the weight and shape, you are getting plenty.

It was been raining for the past 3/4 days off and on. I drove to the storage place today to check out the water intrusion and pinpoint the leak source. As I unlocked the door and entered it an overwhelming feeling of "Oh expletive, this is probably way beyond what I can handle" came over me. I kept digging at the rotting plywood and reached the foam boards. It was pretty amusing to see how winni sandwiched the foam boards to the ply to the frame. I carefully removed the foam board from the center, then the 2 side foam pieces. I discovered that there are 2 triangular metal pieces attached to the inside edge of the cabover (see pic below). The front of the foam boards weighed a ton as winni used an open cell foam board which absorbed water. then I began to clean up all the loose plylayers and reached the fiberglass skin of the cabover. I was surprised to see that the center wood going to front of the cab over is NOT attached to anything in the front. I found that the passenger side sagged like half an inch and the previous owner tried to attach an aluminum plate to edge, which I pulled to see and bent it :-(. I checked my phone and it was time to head back home as the midgets are going to wake soon. I started to bag the garbage wet rotten ply pieces and told myself that this is doable and I just needed to break the task down to manageable pieces. I also found that the roof around the a/c has sagged around an inch. How do I fix this? So here is the plan: 1. seal all the windows and marker lights and edges. 2. temp seal the pass side edge above the door 3. fix water leak above bathroom 4. seal awning both holes 5. seal the entire length of the edge trim.

Linda, Derek, thanks a bunch, you guys are on the money, I drove over to the storage space after lunch while the little ones were taking a nap. I took a picture a screws from the inside. The sealant from the outside looks pretty weather beaten. I checked the windows on my holiday rambler and they looked exactly the same as the Winnie and only bigger.

Here is my apprehension for the OP, this "looks" like a turn key camper that the op and his family can jump on board and drive across the states. Most likely the other systems in the vehicle has been neglected and needs attention. The exhaust system is probably shot. No offense but those thick layers of fiberglass and insulation can hide a lot of latent problems. I would only get something like this if I had a month to drive it around and take my time and fix all the issues and service all the system in the vehicle before embarking on a long trip.

Linda, How do I take the front and front side windows off? also, the marker light, do I just pop off the cover and then unscrew the light frame and then apply putty and then reattach the marker light? Sorry, I have never taken a RV window out, don't want to break anything.

"Truck and slide-on camper. He said he bought the camper especially stripped to lower weight and hopefully get better gas mileage. No propane, no water, no stove, no AC. Camper weighs 900 lbs. before loading. Basically just an expensive box and a bed, and storage. Total outfit cost well over $40,000" Yeap, those rigs are not your regular rvs, it is the 4wd off road capability that has people buying light aluminum structures. here is my rig, FWC Grandby with nearly every options sits on top my duramax, no toilet though!

Linda, Dave thanks, I am assuming the butyl tape is something I can buy at a RV store only? how do I take the window off and the marker light off to reseal them? Thanks,

Yes Sir, a full size ext van will meet your purpose and will be less risky than a toyo. rip out the bench seats or better buy a cargo van. cabelas sells bunk beds that you can put in the back and sleep like a king. only issue will be shower and potty, just book good camp grounds or truck stop with shower facilities. even if you idle all night, you will not consume more than 4 gallons (ask me how I know :-)) your van has a/c heat built in, if needed install a hitch carrier or tow a little enclosed trailer behind. As the toyo guru JD pointed out, a 20 plus year old camper will have issues and needs to be looked over. I had mine for years and have not been able to take it out camping yet. nearly nobody sells a good camper. be very leery of someone selling any camper without the mention of any issues. go a chevy dealership and check out the space inside a full size extended cargo van, then go and check out one of the Toyota rv.