ranger

Found my problem. I traced the black(hot) wire that hooks to the positive battery post and found an inline 30 amp fuse which was blown. Replaced the fuse and the problem is fixed.

No-replaced the old dead battery with a new one. Everyting was working fine prior to that.I checked the black and white wires at the fuse panel but no juice. Sounds like I have something wired wrong but I have recehecked several times. Hope it is not a converter problem. What do you think? I think you are right on the red wire being the generator wire. Thanks Ramger

Installed a new coach battery today to power my 12 volt lights, pump, etc. Once I hooked up the cables no power, no lights, etc. Re-checked my wiring and according to the instructions on the invertor the black wire goes to the positive and the white goes to the negative cables of the battery. Checked fuses, breakers all OK. Everyting worked fine with the old battery. Hooked hoop just like the old battery was hooked up. Checked the new battery and it was OK. Any ideas what could be wrong? Also, I have a large red wire (about the size of your finger) which hooks to the positive side of the battery which runs to what appears to be a resistor? block. Does anyone know what the block is or does?

Thanks everyone. Do you all recommend the one with intake and exhaust or just exhaust, thermostate or not, etc.? Ranger

I would like to add some addditional information to this post. My response was to a post by "Maineah" about his rear mount generator.

Will the Fan-tastic Fan install without any modifications - does the trim ring fit snug against the ceiling as it does with thicker roofs?

I would love to hear more about your (or anyones) rear bumper mount generator with its own fuel tank. What type/size of generator, how is it mounted, fuel tank kind and mount, how long (hours) will it run, can you run the generator while traveling, how do you connect the camper power cord, etc.

If it is a Aqua Magic or any other Thetford brand you can give them a call and one of the techs will help you analyize the problem and provide you with the correct part number. You can buy repair parts from them but I have found the part I needed (water value) I could buy much cheaper if I shopped around. Thetford's number is 1-800-521-3032 and their hours of operation are 8-6 eastern time. Hope this helps and good luck. Ranger

I am replacing the exterior vinyl insert trim that covers the screw heads around the overhead bunk area on my 86 Shasta. Could anyone tell me what size the vinyl trim is? 3/4 inch or 1 inch? I tried lying a piece flat to measure but it crumbled due to its age.

Thanks - I will put that on my "to do" list. Ranger

Now I am really confused. My Shasta has a Coachman sticker on the drivers door that shows the tire size and pressure. It says the tire size should be 185R14LT8PR, the Gross weight is 6000 pounds and the air pressure for the front and rear (dual) tires should be 26 pounds each accordng to the sticker. Sounds low to me. I looked at my tires and they say 50 pounds of air pressure. It also says they are Load C. Should I be concerned?

Due to the recent downpoors here in NC I was able to take a look at my moisture problem which is located in the overhead interior bunk area (passenger side) front corner/side area. It appears the moisture is coming in around and under the 2x2 wooden frame work behind the paneling on the side at the bottom which is where the exterior metal seam is located. I am assuming I need to remove the exterior vinyl trim, screw heads that holds the metal trim panel on and in turn the metal trim. It appears the metal trim was sealed with butyl caulk tape from the factory which appears to be deteriated. Do I just clean and replace the caulk tape and replace the metal trim or is there something in addition I can do to help resove this issue? Any advice or recommendations will be appreciated. Ranger

Tried to post photos of the interior of my 86 Shasta for your reference but had no luck. Everytime I would try to attach the file I would get an error message that read "No file was chosen". Do you or anyone else have any suggestions on what I am doing wrong? Ranger

Had a similiar experience. I was running off the water due to the unit being winterized with RV antifreeze when I bought it. I had the bath sink on and the gray water value open. Low and behold I came back a few minutes later and found the sink backed up and running over, also the water had backed up in the shower. Luckely my black water tank contained no ?. The best I can tell it appears my entire bathroom is on one tank and the kitchen sink on another. Hope this helps. Ranger

Hi Lance, I noticed you live in Fayetteville, N.C. I also have a 1986 Coachman (Shasta) which I purchased in late 2009 and I live in Erwin, NC which is only a few miles away. Ironically, after reading some of your posts I had some of the same problems (battery isolater, cruise not working) with my toy. My toy is a 22re with automatic. Luckly mine had a trans cooler and warning light installed when I purchased it. I am currently in the process of doing some upgrades on the interior. I would think your unit and mine would have alot of similiarities, wiring, problems, etc.. Being these Toy's are new to me maybe we can get together one day and share some information. Unfortunetly I have been having problems trying to post photos. Ranger

I too love the rear dinette/bed with windows all around. As stated earlier I am in the process of updating the countertops (kitchen & bath), range hood and all cushions are also in the process of being covered. I will be glad to provide you with some photos of my work in progress. Would you like to see anything or area in particular? My ceiling shows no sign of leakage and believe it or not all the original appliances (heater, fridge, AC, water heater, invertor) are in good working condition. Did have a water heater leak, a leak under the tub and some general maintaince issues which I have fixed. After cleaning the metal roof it looked very good and I have coated it with the white RV elostomatic roof coating for now. However, I really like the spray on bedliner idea on the roof. I have noticed a small damp area in the corner of the overhead bunk on the passanger side. I'm thinking it might be coming from the front bunk window and running behind the wall and eventially making it to the corner. I understand the front over cab windows are bad for leaking. You or someone else may have another idea where I could look - if so I would appreciate any advice. Could you or anyone else tell me what size air conditioner typically comes on the coach? I can't seem to find the BTU information but the unit is a Brisk Air. Thanks again for the generator information. I see yours is a 2500 watt. Ranger

I also have a 86 Shasta Revere with the exact floor plan and interior/exterior colors, cabinets, etc. It has a 22re with 28,000 miles and automatic on the column and luckly in good shape overall. However I am in the process of replacing the countertops, sink, range hood and just dropped off the couch cushions to be recovered. I noticed your Shasta had a side compartment for a generator? Does it have one? If so could you tell me what kind and size? Thanks Ranger

Had a very similiar problem with a furnace in a travel trailer I had. It appears that condensation had created rust in the slots/holes on the burner directly below the igniter. Therefore, gas would not be directly below the igntion area and had to build up from the other slots in the burner and then igntion would happen with a BOOM. I had to remove the burner and clean with a wire brush and re-intstall. Worked great after that. Hope this helps. Ranger

Good point and THANKS!!

Truck battery still cranking fine and alternator charging. I still have the coach battery removed. It appears that the DEAD coach battery was drawing down the truck battery and I am assuming due to the battery isolater being wired wrong if that is possible. I am thinking of installing a battery maintainer (2 amp automatic) on a new coach battery instead of messing with the battery isolater which will need to be replaced, properly wired, etc. The trips I take are less than 2 hours one way and I do not do any camping without electrical hook-ups. If my understanding is right then I could plug up the battery maintainer without having to plug up the entire coach. If I am missing something or am wrong in my thinking please let me know. I also plugged the coach up today and pressed the battery button on the monitioring panel in the coach - it read acceptable even though the coach battery is removed. Can anybody explain that? Does it mean the invertor is saying the battery is charging?

Thanks Again! I will try tomorrow and let everyone know. I did replace the fully charged truck battery yesterday and took her down the road, Stopped and cranked her several times with no problems. Tried her today and she fired right up. I still have the coach battery removed.

DEAD! but I can jump it off with a jump starter. I did remove the coach battery today and found it was dead as well ( and low in water) and it will not even take a charge. I replaced the truck battery and checked for voltage at the wires that were hooked to the coach battery and found no power. If the battery fails again it should be something with the truck?

Thanks Maineah, I'll try that today and let you know. It's strange, I bought the MH in October and have used it and had no battery problems until now. I did unhook the wire from the truck battery that led to the solenoid and inturn to the coach. Once I unhooked that wire I had no power in the coach so I thought the coach was pulling down the truck battery and may be causing the problem but as stated earlier the truck battery still went dead.

The main engine cranking battery on my Toyhome is going dead in about 2 days. I have had it checked it checks good and afterall it is only 4 months old and showed no signs of failure prior to this. I have not been able to find anything such as lights, etc. which could be draining the battery. I have even unhooked the main wire from the positive post to the battery isolater (sylonide type which is another story) just to see if that could be creating the drain. No luck there. I'm thinking it might be the starter?? Anybody encontered this before? On another note - after reading the posts about battery isolaters I looked closer at mine. Again, mine is the sylonide type and appears to be wired wrong. There is a hot wire leaving the battery post to a relay (I think it is a relay or circut breaker?), then another wire leads off the other side of the relay and hooks to one side of the isolater. Then another hot wire is hooked to the same side as the previous wire and runs to the coach battery. In other words all wires are hooked to one side of the isolater. No wires are hooked to the oher side or middle connection on the isolater. I am thinking the isolater may not be working and the previous owner just placed both wires on one side. What do you guys think? Where can I buy another isolater and how should it be wired? Thanks, Ranger

The electric fuel pump does get fuel from the MH tank. The exhaust is made from metal conduit and exists out the rear of the coach but not very professional looking. I do not know how the electric transfer works. There is a swith (on/off light switch type) which is connected to several wire leads and located in the generator compartment. The heat generated during operation is handled by a 16 inch plastic electric fan (such as used on race cars for addtional cooling) which is mounted under the generator at the bottom opening. The fan is connected to a switch which will allow the fan to run in the both directions. Obviously someone went to great links and expense to install, hook-up, etc. this generator. I have had it running for a few seconds but really have not had time to really check it out. I could use some advice on the electrical wiring issue - what wire/color should go were, etc. Thanks