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Try a generic brand of Oxyclean mixed in water. It is a peroxide type of bleach. It will oxidize the mold. Use a wet vac to suck it up. This will not work unless you can get it to dry within a reasonable period of time. So use some ceramic heater with ventilation. Good luck

Use a hair dryer with just enough heat to soften the decal. Use a plastic scraper. Don't be too aggressive or you'll scratch the paint. I guess that's not a big issue if your repainting. Any remaining can be removed with mild solvent.

How about just replacing the engine with the 4.3 liter V6 from the Chevy Astro. It is a serious truck engine and not too heavy. The later models have 190 hp and 250 ft lb of torque and multi port injection. It's been done before and the installers say it's relatively easy. You would have almost double the torque. http://toyotatruckworld.tenmagazines.com/e...ic.asp?id=53390 http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/...l.jsp?id=274607 http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-suv-s-tr...s-involved.html

This is the online service manual for a 1993 Toyota pickup electrical http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchana...electrical.html For the future the whole manual is at http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/ Everything's down loadable as pdf files. God luck

The Winnebago stock shower faucet is grade A crappola. I had the same problem and finally bought a whole new shower faucet for about $20+ after I fiddled around all day trying to get the old one to work. The new one works great.

I purchased Nankangs load range D from Les Schwab, a western tire chain. Nankang is an old well established tire manufacturer who specializes in truck, trailer and performance tires.

I lived in New England when I bought my first Toyhome. I was with a group that did year round camping. There's no practical way to fully insulate the holding tanks. They're slung too low. Some water tanks and lines are inside so that you can hold water for drinking or the sinks. You have to isolate and drain the water heater though. Some of them have bypass valves. Most of us just drained the whole system and used gallon water jugs. We flush the toilet with winter grade windshield washer fluid. The big problem if you're not hooked to a land power is heating. Most Toys only have a 7.5 gallon propane tank. You'll use about two gallons propane a day if the heater is on half the time. My Dolphin had a removable tank with a rubber hose and I could hook a spare tank. My Winny has a chassis mount tank so I bought a retrofit kit that lets me hook an external tank. This is one http://www.marshallbrass.com/rv.htm A skirt around the bottom is a good idea like mobile homes have. Dual rear wheels have an amazing amount of traction except on ice. I had mud and snow tires at one point but the road noise was terrible. I now carry cable chains. Of course they only go on the outside wheels. Park with the wind on the opposite side of the heater so it won't blow out. Put a cover over the windshield so that you don't have to clean snow and ice off of it. If you don't have one, make a curtain to separate the cab from the rest of the MH. I know some people that have made inside storm windows out of acrylic plastic. Get some some heavy plastic foot wipe mats like Wally World has for outside and the entrance. Otherwise you'll have melted snow all over the inside. Have some slippers by the door so you can leave your boots by the door well. If you have carpeting, get cheapo rubber backed carpet to line the inside. Find a way to put some hangers in the shower stall so you can hang up your wet clothes to dry. Oh, zip two sleeping bags together for warmth, assuming you'll be with someone. But leave one side zipper open for getting up to use the bathroom. Remember heat rises so the upper birth will be the warmest place. Good luck

It's all about current. It's called I squared x r loss. That's current times resistance. That is how heat is created. If you create the same wattage (current times voltage) by higher voltage times lower current, you reduce the heat loss. That's why high intensity lamps work so good, they're low voltage times higher current. It's also why power lines are 110,000 volts. To reduce losses. Now I betcha didn't know this. Auto wire of the same gauge is different than house wire. How you may ask? It has more and finer strands. That is because electricity flows around the circumference of wire. So if you use more strands for the same gauge, there's less heat loss and higher current capacity. Your 45 watt solar panel generates 4 amps so size accordingly. Good old Harbor Freight.

I have three different bulletins. You figure it out. Remember the chassis is one year older than the model year. Any Toyota dealer should be able to tell from the VIN. You have to tell some of them it's the head gasket recall or they won't find it.

When you replaced the battery breakers, did you wire brush the terminals? Also check with a ohmmeter to see if the terminals are corroded where they connect to the wires. When I install new crimp type terminals, I also solder them so that they can't corrode inside. On the main breaker box, it's good to turn the breakers all the way off and back on again once in a while. A breaker can trip without going all the way off. Also take the 12 volt fuses and slide them in and out to make sure that you have a good connection. Check the battery with a hygrometer. I also use them to add water to the battery. You know that the old style inverters don't do a good job of charging a battery. Good luck

It's hard to see what kind of a fitting they went in to. Beats me from the pics. Maineah's recommendation is a good idea. I replaced some of my faucets with "gooseneck" type bathroom faucet. Their much easier to get hands and containers under.

I mentioned this before. Chlorine in the bleach reacts with the ammonia in the urine to produce chloramines -- NH2Cl, NHCl2 and NCl3 These cause eye and respiratory irritation. A good alternative is generic oxyclean. You can get it in the dollar store. It uses peroxide as the oxidizer.

The only ones that I have seen use cone washers like the one attached. They have a metal retaining snap ring behind them. They're used a lot for plastic piping. They usually last a long time and will leak if they're pinched or not installed straight. Have you tried tightening it? Is the old one cracked? Take a picture or make a drawing with the posting so we can help you.

I did the add a spring by relieving tension and sliding in another spring on a previous Toy. I found something easier this time. It is a full length spring that has and indent that allows it to fit over the shackle. You just have to jack the MH enough to get the right arch for installation. It cost $36 for a set and added 2,000#s lift.

Dolphin is better designed and built than Winnebago. Winny uses the cheapest of everything and design, fit and finish is the worst. This is not to say it won't be usable. If it has air bags. look at what and how their installed. Sunrader uses the heavy convoluted bags over the axle. My Dolphin had extra leaf springs from the factory and didn't need air bags. Winny uses cheap retro fits Rube Goldberged in place. Sunrader uses a premium ducted heater and remote start water heater. Winny uses tons of pressboard poorly stapled together. Look at how the roof joints are put together. Some forever leak. My Dolphin had a removable horizontal propane tank set up that you could hook to a spare tank. The chassis mounted propane tanks slung low can rot in certain climates. My Winny tank is barely accessible. Some things are personal preference. You have to RV for a good while to decide what you prefer. Some things are inexpensive to customize. I just changed the shower faucet on my Winny for $24 and it is so much better than the stock one. I changed the kitchen sink one to a high type to fill pans. Good Luck.

ECT for electronic control transmission. The automatics have it. It's the lower rectangular button on the dash to the right of the steering wheel. When it's on, it raises the RPM's at which the transmission shifts. I understand that it can be re-programmed. I use it to keep the overdrive on longer by having it hold the shifts longer. Unless it's very steep hills, then I turn off the overdrive. The goal is to find the right combination on hills so that the transmission does not hunt constantly for the ideal gear and the engine does not lug. I wish that I had a five speed manual or a six speed if they had one.

The problem is if you have to refill your tank on the road. I remember stopping at a camp ground in Idaho. I filled my water tank with what turned out to be the worst water I ever experienced. It killed a couple of plants I kept on board. It's always good to check with the locals about their water quality. One little recognized additive you may want to try if you're worried about health issues is peroxide. It is cheap and a mild disinfectant. It is safe to drink in low doses. Besides, it won't last long. Check the net for usage before you try it. Bleach is very potent but can form carcinogens with certain components. Always flush good after using bleach. If you dump it in to your holding tank it can form deadly gasses with ammonia compounds.

I have a 91 Winnebago V6. I recently traveled up hill from the coast of Oregon to Bend in central Oregon. I averaged 14.9 mpg. Coming back downhill it was about 20 mpg. I never got above 65 mph either way. On a straight highway with no strong head wind, the highest I get is 16 mpg. I use synthetic oil, upgraded plug wires, iridium plugs, new air filter and I keep my tire pressure at 50-55 psi (64 psi max rated). I am very careful playing the ECT against the overdrive for optimum rpm and shifting. I used to get better mileage until Oregon switched to 10% ethanol. There is one more thing I want to try. My first motor home was a 21 foot class C chassis mount. I bought an air spoiler that goes on the rear of the roof. It was supposed to break the vacuum in the back therefore decreasing drag. It definitely helped. I can't find one and will probably make my own.

Can people share their experiences with different brands of road service? I have been with Good Sams and they are beginning to suck big time. They're like the HMO of road service. They now pay their contractors under market fees. The contractors don't want to respond.

I used to live in Chatham and belonged to a Cape Cod chapter of Good Sams. Many of New England beaches have very fine sand. I can't remember what the sand at Race Point in Truro was like. I never found a beach on the Cape that was safe to traverse with a MH. Remember, when the sand is damp you can drive on it. When it's wet or dry, forget it. While you're down that way check out the Beachcomber in Wellfleet and Heritage Plantation in Sandwich. Nickerson State Park in Brewster is one of the best in the country. Good luck

Just got back from prospecting for petrified wood at Hampton Butte in Central Oregon. I used 13.47 gallons for over 200 miles up hill from the Oregon coast. The others in the group used 26 gallons for a regular class C and 21 gallons for a diesel pulling a fifth wheel trailer. Coming back downhill was about 20mpg. I can't say enough for having a roof antenna for the cell phone. Having a CB radio is still a help. We were camping on a 1,700 acre ranch in the middle of nowhere. Coyotes, Ground Squirrels, Antelope, Deer, Elk, and cattle with cowboys on horses. I'm always amazed at the sky in the upper desert at night. It's like you're floating in space. The air up there was incredible although the sage brush was a little strong. The evaporative roof air conditioner was a help during the day when it gets hot. I hated getting back to the city.

I got the Parallax 7345RU conversion for $197. It was and easy install and is working great. How ya doing Kathy? I just got back from prospecting in Central Oregon.

The water heater and space heater tend to get rust in them depending on where you live. It can block the gas nozzles. I take a shop vac twice a year and blow and vacuum the vents.

I was in the middle of nowhere and found that my V6 alternator belt had half of one side frayed off. I keep all spare belts. You have to remove the compressor and power steering belts to get at it. The compressor has a tensioner wheel that requires the hands of an octopus to get at. I think if I had a staggered box end rachet, I could have done it but I didn't. I took a risk and drove 60 miles to a Toyota dealer. Any one have any tips on getting that air conditioner compressor belt off???? My kudos to Bend Toyota of Oregon who was reasonable, competent and got me in and out of there in one hour. I had them change all three belts. The place is run like a navy ship.

Does any one know if the stock under carriage spare tire mount can handle the weight of the heavy rims on our rigs? Thanks