centralman

Follow up: Engine was just flooded. Mechanic took the plugs out, disabled all injectors, put a gas analyzer at the exhaust and do a crank-and stop procedure with a blow gun (compress air blowing into the cylinder from spark plug chamber), after the HC reading drops to very minimal he puts a few drops of oil in each cylinder, reactivate the injectors and it cranked right up.

On the last trip I discovered that there is a crack on the fibreglass at the forward cab over area. Could somebody point me in the right direction what I can do to do a bit of DIY repair to get it fixed, thanks!

Tried your method today, here's what happened: 1. The cold start inject didn't leak, it sprayed fuel when cranked but didn't not drip fuel after I stopped cranking. 2. After putting back in the cold injector I disconnected the wire and floored the accelerator trying to start the MH. Cranks but doesn't start, heard a few (but not very loud) backfire noise from the driver side of the engine. Any other ideas?

Thanks I have been keeping track with your post for sure it gives me some idea I just hope it doesn't come to that but thanks for your suggestion. My case is a little bit different as the vehicle would not even start up at all versus yours can start up for a couple of seconds and then dies.

This maybe something worth considering: I am thinking of upgrading my existing OE alternator (from a 87 22RE) to using a GM 12SI (Lester #7279SE) which has an output close to 100amp. In fact, many people seemed to have done this upgrade with ease and no problem. All you need is a kit from Trail Gear and a GM alternator, which should be easy enough to get, it might just get rid of the fan belt problem as well. I would like to ask if anybody can provide me with detail instruction (preferably with some illustration) how I could hook up another deep cycle battery in my MH since the house battery compartment is so small. Thanks for your suggestion and help. If I could do that then I would definitely upgrade my existing alternator with a GM one.

Thanks Maineah I will try your suggested test tomorrow. I noticed the check engine is on when I turn the key to "ON" position. It disappears after a while.

Thanks I have checked the coil wire is fine and all spark plugs have spark when I try to crank the MH, but thanks for the thought.

Thanks for your suggestion, I cannot get to it today but sure will give it a try tomorrow. May I ask what kind of bad grounds could cause this? The problem you mentioned is with the cold start injector or the time switch? My link I am sorry to ask but I just want to clarify, thanks.

My MH wouldn't start yesterday ... It cranks and cranks but wouldn't start, I checked that the battery's good, has spark on all 4 plugs and there's fuel (the plugs are wet with gas after I tried to start it for a while). I worried that I flooded the engine but I try again today and again it just keep cranking but wouldn't start. Any ideas before I tow it to my mechanic? Thanks for your help and suggestion.

Would taking the fuel injectors out and cleaning them by a professional company make the fuel economy better?

Thanks, at least I know my MH's fuel consumption is not too far off from everybody else's!

Thanks for your input. I always thought my MH's fuel consumption is worse than everybody else's. My Toyota MH is actually my first MH, so let's say the fuel consumption is about average at 12MPG, how does that compare with the other MH's (North American chassis ones)? PS I will keep updating this thread as I will try to resolve the coolant temp problem, of course anything I find out I will let you know. Also, I tried putting in Water Wetter additive by Redline, it doesn't have a noticeable improvement on the coolant temp.

Probably you are right. But the two rad hoses I replaced didn't have coil springs on them either. From reading all the posts here, I have learned a lot. The only other thing I found odd with my MH is it's fuel consumption. I average 60-65 mph (more likely around 61-62mph) on the interstate or highway, and my MH is around 12mpg on fuel consumption. I have heard people here has upwards of 15mpg, that's the norm, could the two things be related?

Yes, I have checked my mechanic used Goodyear #361 (Outlet-Engine Side) and Mackay #CH2426/16572-35030 (Radiator To Pipe) for the bottom rad hoses, they don't have coil spring on it.

Thanks for your opinion. I have had all 3 rad hoses replaced earlier this year, so they are still ok.

Thanks Maineah, I have checked the hoses from radiator to expansion tank, they are tight, and the vertical hose has enough length to go all the way to the bottom. Before when the coolant is spilling out, the expansion tank will empty out after the engine cools down overnight completely. I am not sure how to check the radiator cap. Maybe I tried to have it replaced and see what happens. Thanks for your suggestion.

Hi Allen, Sorry for the late reply ... I would like to update my progress here. The belts were replaced by the previous owner a couple of years back, since then it had put on 13,000 miles. I took the MH to my mechanic to tighten the belts just before going on a trip from Vancouver, BC. Coolant no longer spills out, but at constant speed around 60-65mph on the interstate, the coolant temp indicator will go up to 3/4 way from Cold to Hot, at lesser speed around 55 mph, the indicator will stay at half. One thing I find it odd is that the coolant level still drops a bit from top of the radiator the next morning after it cools down. It acts as if it doesn't suck the coolant all the way back in from the expansion tank when the engine cools down, but the rad cap is only a year old and I don't know why this is happening. And the belts were replaced at a Toyota Dealer. I don't know if they are good enough, and what would be the ones with higher quality in your opinion?

Thanks for your info. May I ask does this apply to 1987 22RE specifically? May sound like a stupid question but wanted to make sure, thanks again. I think Kim's idea is great too if there's an easier way to approach this.

Hi there, would you be willing to share how to adjust the device please? Thank you.

yes, it's most likely your front brakes. They take the majority of pressure due to motion and weight than rear brakes. My suggestion would be: (1) Keep your MH's weight down as much as possible; (2) When braking downhill try the press and release routine, don't step on the brakes for any long periods to avoid overheating the brakes (my guess is you will feel the shutter after overheating the brakes); (3) Use heavy duty rotors and pads for your next brake change.

My guess would be, change the blower motor resistor?

You can use these Toyota OE part numbers to cross reference with other parts manufacturer: Wheel Seal, Rear, Inner 90310-35001 Wheel Seal, Rear, Outer 90311-62001 Rear Brake Shoe, 04495-35180

Need to investiage further ... I think most people here will agree with me that The MH burns most gas at intersate speed (60-65mph) and you will get the best mileage running at 50-55mph. So for me, going up hill would actually have a better mileage. I have no idea why you got 6mpg on hilly roads. I have a 87 Dolphin with 22RE EFI engine.

Good for you! I am not so lucky. I have changed both the fan clutch and a brand new 3 row radiator already, but still the same.

Yeah my mechanic friend tested the thermostat before putting in, it was ok. The thermostat installed properly, in fact, I have tried 3 different types of thermostat already, and in the end the coolant still spills out from the expansion tank when driving at interstate speed. No, I haven't tried running the truck without a thermostat.