Lucas602

Yes! That makes sense. He did say it was running lean, which could be from lean or from exhaust leaks. I don’t fully understand, but I do see the connection with lean and stalling. I am 2.5 turns out now. I was at 3.5 before rebuild. Should I go back to 3.5? I can go tune while hooked up for $20.

Cool. Spray carb cleaning and see if idle raises yeah?

Ok I almost past smog. We just did a poke test. Pre-check. My idle was too high and I was running a little lean. CO waayyyy down. So carb rebuild success. Just need to tune and re-poke here locally then go for my star certified smog One problem I am having is stalling on deceleration. It got better once warmed up. I should probably replace some vacuum lines. Any ideas though? I am 38 years old so I am not too skilled at carburetors. I grew up building motorcycles but that was mainly jet work.

Man. That was a lot.

Its mainly the rubber bits yeah? There was a few more things not in that guide I posted that I realized after and removed, and my kit had the replacement parts. I keep finding whole trucks in LA. I am headed to orange county wed-sat.

I think 78 was gone before I got here. 52 is stuck. Been meaning to let you know the wheels that were available were in a shady situation and I never made it out there. Lol.

Thank you! Ok been doing some short trips around my area. Kinda working a lot. And did some head gaskets on a 2004 silverado. Really like that LS1 platform. I am currently rebuilding the carburetor on the RV. And building a permanent bed frame. I copied my couch bed frame and I have a twin sized bunk bed frame I am modifying to work as a couch and slide out into full sized bed. In the back. Will post picks. For the carb I found this which was helpful. https://bitdrivencircuits.com/Toyota22r_Carburetor/toyota_22r_carburetor_home.html I just numbered my bags the same as the steps. Soaking in berrymans right now. I didnt want an ultrasonic cleaner. I also couldnt get the main jet out but I dont have a new one anyways. Someone gave me a low miles carb that sat outside forever. However, once lost, I can look at it for reference. As its winter. I will probably rebuild it next and carry a spare. Or most likely give to someone in need.

Ok well back to reality, I think I am going to keep it simple for now and get the basis covered. Work is busy and we probably will just do some weekend trips. punch list 1. Rebuild carb 2. Head gasket 3. Rear shock mounts and parking brake 4. LED taillights. For the parking brake I may go back to that truck for its hardware vs switching my parking brake cable from my old axle. or try and swap the old cables over the new axle cables are way longer. I may be able to just shorten the cable. For shock mounts I think I am going to do these and set it behind the axle, with the shock straight up and down, bolt parallel to the axle tube. My understanding is this is the best for full up and down articulation vs, side to side. It will give the strongest effect of the shock being vertical, and helps with the axle moving forward and back while articulating. for a 4x4 that goes off road you want the opposite. Perpendicular and shock off to the side for most travel. https://barnes4wd.com/products/axle-tube-shock-bracket-pair

Thats awesome! yah. I may need the original to get it titled. Ill keep you updated on the process

Ha! I know where you are too. We have an old truck here in someones name that we dont transfer due to no smog This is cool. Thank you for sharing. I am just researching to do the same and almost bought a 2004 vw. Saved me thanks. its funny how much hate there was at first. I always gauge how well I am doing on how much people hate me. I am in california but if you want to come down and work together you can take on the conversion part of my builds.

I am a cummins guy. Ill check it out. With my slow approach maybe I can find one. check out my jack and in regard to linda, my 83 could have been originally equipped as a diesel so if I am not mistaken, I can title it as a diesel with a statement of facts form. I have to deal with the ref on another project so will ask.

Ok. Ive gone round and round on direction. And I think I am going TDI swap. the 3.0 diesel just isnt appealing. Timing belt, piston crack issues. Not great fuel consumption. And you need parts and are out of luck for weeks. The 2.8 looks amazing. For $20k. I found one in UK for $5k but no ecu or drivetrain. And requires a rocket scientist to work on Im finding 1.9 tdi motors for $1000 with harness and ecu. Adapters to a w56 transmission for $500. And there are mechanics and parts all over the US. LKQ has long blocks for $600. I could pull into any junkyard in america and get swapped for $1000 probably if the motor were to go Will you all be mad if I put a VW motor in?

Just spotted this gem and thought of you all

Does anyone know the rear axle nut size and thread pitch on the 6 lug dually rear? Thanks.

I did the same So man, this truck needs one of everything. Someone just creeped this thing along for years First and foremost thanks for the support. I rewired my starting battery as fred suggested. I just cut out all the connections, soldered two wires on with ring terminals. It seems to be important to separate charging circuit from ignition, so I just did each on their own ring terminal. I have been researching this transmission whining on deceleration and unfortunately I think I have to split the case. I found a transmission for $200 down south. I found a rebuilt one locally for $800. I found a parts truck in ukiah which is 6 hours away. It looks like a 92. Calling to see if its a 4 speed or 5 speed. He wants $200. It needs a clutch, and has no title. So I would probably take the engine and tranny out and sell it for $200. If it is a 5 speed, can I use its driveshaft, slave and master and cross member? My cross member looks welded in. I do have a torch, welder etc. I also noticed the rear bearing on the output shaft is only $20 from rock auto. So for the essence of money I may just pull it apart and see if thats all I need. I rebuilt the 5 speed in my nissan. With the right info its not hard. Getting back home sucks. Lol. Ive had to work constantly and I am fixing my assistants car as he did all the heavy lifting on this rv build. havent told him yet that we need to pull the tranny again. Waiting till I smog his civic.

It may be best to get toyota. Its probably beck arnley making both

I can buy a set vs buying one of a single item and chancing they are all the same length.

I can buy a set vs buying one of a single item and chancing they are all the same length.

These are all more reasons to just switch to a diesel. A lot of the parts for this series are just expensive. Ive been buying stuff for the post-85. I need to learn more about the toyota diesels. None of them seem eye catching. The 3.4 seems good but I dont think california will let me. An OM606 would be cool and I can build to suite. I see tdi swaps. I see a lot of 3.0 jdm diesel engines with a 5 speed manual and transfer case for $4000. Which makes me want to just reuse my head bolts and throw a gasket in. edit. Thanks for the part number. These guys have a set. Grumplily ordering. https://www.lceperformance.com/20R-22R-OEM-Head-Bolt-Set-1975-1984-OEM-Toyota-P-N-p/1024077.htm Check out this stroker kit. If you toggle through the options you can see the differences in all these years. Different main bearings for 81. Etc. One thing I should check is I have the original engine https://www.lceperformance.com/Street-Stroker-Kit-Without-Rods-p/1010032.htm I also found a repair sleeve for the transmission output. It says it presses in from the outside.

They are pretty bad. Its a good business, lots of inventory and turnover. Bad customer service. Ill go grab them. Home. Punchlist: 1. Head gasket 2. Shock Mounts on rear axle 3. Airbags for rear axle 4. Carb rebuild 5. Alignment 6. Ball joints and tie rods 7. Gas gauge and clean tank 8. Parking brake cables 9. Transmission tail-shaft 10. AC for cab. So if I remember correctly, the pre-85 motors are a shorter block and taller head? I remember people putting the shorter block and head together. Looking at head bolts and someone said the pre-85 bolts are 1/4” longer. They also suggest just running the post-85 bolts I have only come up with one part number listing the actual bolts for my 83. Pioneer S1171 However the same site lists those for a 1990 22R. Amongst a whole list of cheaper options. So do I just run normal head bolts? Do I have to replace these? Honestly I am just slapping a head gasket in. I could do a leak down test, determine where I am at. But no matter what I am going to change the gasket and just keep driving it for the moment. It has some blow by. With a proper head gasket I can test compression. I am also curious if I can run the post 85 head. I am not 100% sure what I want to do but kinda thinking about that LCE stroker kit and a carb legal weber, header, etc. also still would like diesel. The other issue, focusing on the tasks at hand

So there was one more in the bed, and a spare underneath

So for the 83 model, that nut is 30 mm on the flange you remove from driveline to change carrier bearing. Its easy to do and not pull the driveline off the truck. And its 2.5 miles to ace hardware. And my electric scooter goes 5 miles. Pro-tip, just buy the socket set that will cover the range the bolt might be in. The carrier bearing from autozone didnt fit. at the point of giving up i beat it to death with a hammer and made it fit. I hope they will still refund me. Noted on AC. Thank you. It appears you want your period specific setup. So I will watch for one at the junkyards and get everything I can when I find it.

Well getting ready to head home and fixing a few things. I took the top hat back off the carb and cleaned it with chemtool and in absence of a compressor I got a bottle of canned air for computers. Running much better. It needs a full tear down. Theres a few things I suspect but need a shorter screw driver. right now its running ok so following my rule of “if its not broke dont fix it” Going to replace this carrier bearing this morning. They say to pull the whole drive shaft but Im gonna try leaving it in the transmission. I am ordering parts from rock auto and looking at heater core. Im wondering what people do to add AC. Thus far, I have gotten a lot of parts from the newer series, 1990, and wondering if thats the case with AC. Regardless, having a lot of fun and loving it. It navigates great through dt portland.

Ohhh I didnt know they made a cal approved one! $450 or so it appears. So yeah, bad fan clutch. Bad radiator. Good call Linda. An 83 radiator was like $320 and out of stuck. A radiator from a 92 (I picked a random year) was $160 and in stock. As well, it has a built in tranny cooler, which I have seen setup for plumbing water through to heat a tank. The older truck has a big spout for the bottom hose that also included a port for the heater core return. The new did not, and I noticed notes for the hoses for a 92 “radiator to pipe” and “pipe to motor” so I assume its a separate piece in the newer truck? I had got a cut to fit lower hose before and I cut the end 90 off so my hose fit. So I dug it out if the trash and I cut that big barb off the old radiator. We are 100 miles from portland. It heats up some. New radiator, water pump, thermostat, and full flush. the heater wasnt getting hot and I remembered having heater control valve problems on an 87. So I bypassed it As well, I took the thermostat out. Big improvement. I did notice some “stuff” in the old radiator and wonder if its head gasket sealant. The other problem, I hear some grinding when I let off the throttle, going from applying power to engine breaking. I am curious if its that carrier on the driveline. I moved it and it felt loose. As if rubber mounted and not a bearing. So I need to go look that up. I should now but if I navigate away from here sometimes I loose my draft (iphone 10 on chrome if the developer is watching) I am in portland for a bit. I could do the head gasket, but I can probably make it home fine. My dad is coming through here going south with an empty trailer if things go wrong. The grinding is more of a concern. Gonna crawl under there when we arrive and look for heat or play. If its that carrier, maybe I can change it easily. Maybe I need to do all u-joints. maybe someone has a shop in portland. Ha. Last thought, these walls flex a lot. And its loud. Which doesnt bother me. But my gf. Really dreaming about stripping it and building an exoskeleton on the inside (inoskeleton?) and spray foaming it. I really want to do that and put a 4x4 diesel setup in. I have a problem. Theres a pile of trucks at home waiting for me to get back and install some heads, motors etc.

Cool He told me to just rebuild the carb. I think I might put a weber on while I figure that out.