wadingthroughlife

I’m intending to replace with the one below very soon, but possibly much sooner now. I haven’t opened up the converter to check the contacts mentioned but will this week! https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Converters/Progressive-Dynamics/PD4045KA.html

So, we went ahead to the campground we’d planned on having prepped for the trip so much. When plugging in, we still get full power. When unplugged, we have no house 12v to any lights, water pump, etc. It went out intermittently the second day of our traveling after bumping around the forest road on the first night and second morning. I checked voltage on the battery and into and out of the isolator. They were high 13v. I’m guessing I may need to pull the converter to see if something rattled loose, but any other suggestions are appreciated!

13.8 on house battery when engine is running and 13.2 off what else would you check? Anything on the converter ? The isolator?

On the road currently, and I noticed the water pump didn’t power on when going to flush. It worked yesterday all day, along with the rest of the coach. Now we have no coach power. I’m guessing something rattled loose on the forest road, but any help picking where to begin would be mega appreciated!! Converter? Ground somewhere?

Ah great; I was hoping it was something non-specific. Hose clamps and standard hose perhaps.

We filled up water for our weekend trip this morning, and once the tank was full and began to back up into the hose some, I noticed some dripping. It seems there is a crack in the flexible hose that connects from the filler port to the top of the fresh water tank. Seeking input on a suitable replacement or repair. I haven't pulled the bench top or yanked out the hose, since we're using the truck this weekend. For this trip, I'll just put a small bucket under the filler if we need to re-fill. It seems to have stopped dripping once the hose wasn't holding any more water.

Hi All, I had my rear 1-ton axle wheel bearings done recently but had a few left over seals. I guess I over-ordered or possibly duplicated some parts in preparation. I'd be happy to pass these along, since I'm past my return window with RockAuto. Two each: Beck Arnley 052-2650 Beck Arnley 052-2375 Thanks, Kyle

Stellar idea!! Thanks!

Hey y’all, We’re in Georgia, and when our Sunrader isn’t in use, it’s parked in our driveway with partial shade as they day passes. It’s both HOT and HUMID here, and often when I open the camper it’s pretty daggum hot inside. I’m looking for any thoughts about this daily heat box, as I don’t want to cause any issues down the line. It frequently rains in the afternoon, so I don’t really want to leave the vents cracked too far or windows down to invite moisture. We’re upgrading our converter soon and adding a roof fan in one of the vent locations. Perhaps one with a thermostat. Does anyone have any thoughts or recommendations on this? Is it simply a non issue? Thanks!

I think I may have seen it mentioned in another post, but are you aware of anywhere to find the actual clips for the rod that snap into the sewn on tape? Mine don’t seem to want to unbutton.

Any update on the Velit?

Thanks so much - I'll try to re-edit for information sake.

I'm adding back fender flares on the 87 Sunrader 4x4, and the mount for the neck is within the fender on the passenger side. I was wondering about the orientation of the smaller tube and if it was a vent/breather or overflow catch. There are 3 holes in the fender that line with the filler neck when the vent tube is UP, as opposed to down. (Linda confirmed it should go UP, as it's an air breather to allow fuel in with no restriction of air pressure.)

Not mine; just cool. https://sacramento.craigslist.org/rvs/d/sacramento-extremely-rare-compact/7519220903.html

Think that took care of it. The drivers ground was chopped off. Need ti check the passenger one too. Swapping taillights this week but didn’t want to mess around with that until this was good to go. Thanks so much.

Oh that’s a great idea to check. Will report back. Thanks!

Backup camera turns on when headlights are switched on; what’s happening? 87 Sunrader 18’ manual trans For reference, I installed an Atoto head unit and ran their supplied backup camera to the tag bracket. For power, I tapped into the BLUE wire from the drivers taillight. (It should be noted my reverse lights don’t come on when in reverse) When I shift to reverse, the camera comes on as one would hope. The trouble is that when I switch on the headlights, the backup camera comes on too. I’m pretty certain I wired up the stereo correctly, but it would seem that there is constant power going to the backup camera when the lights get turned on. I disconnected the green illumination wire, and the same situation occurs. I’m thinking something is funny with the blue reverse wire from the taillight perhaps. Any thoughts? At worst, I’ll take to a car audio shop to investigate. Thanks!

I recall reading that, so I’d flipped the bulb both ways, but no dice. I’ll try a different bulb, all directions, and using only the LEDs up top.

So, it seems the problem is resolved. In a weird chain of events between testing the lights, scrubbing the roof, and changing the marker light covers, as well as using electrical cleaner, we’re in business. What I noticed is that when any of the markers gets pressed too tightly to the bracket, it seems to ground out the string of lights. Perhaps that means I need to pull off all the covers and strip some new copper and reattach, but I’m not sure. You’ll surely notice the center over cab isn’t working in the picture. I’ve noticed none of the LED replacement bulbs will power on, which is what is in that base for now. It works with the 57s. Any clue why the led wouldn’t work? It’s these below. Serundo Auto BA9S Led Car Bulb... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W8G835M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Lastly, I have two rear markers what don’t work, and both have different bases that use a 194 bulb instead of the 57 like the rest. I cleaned those too, and the bulbs are good. Is it something about mixing and matching bulbs? Thanks for all the help All!

Amazing. What a wealth of info. Thanks so much on the battery charger idea too. Assuming the break is further back from the medicine cabinet, and I get power from the test charger, I’ll have to figure out wire re-routing. I’ll read through the thread on the Nissan now. Hoping this is the last of the prior owners’ gremlins to wrangle before making my own.

Replaced the corroded butt connectors on drivers side, but no change as expected. I honestly misunderstood the wiring in that it goes from both taillights forward independently. I was thinking the two tails tied into one harness that went up the drivers side and that the over cabs were tied in that way somehow. Now Insee what you’re saying after misunderstanding so badly. In any case: Zero voltage to the over cab markers. Time to pull the medicine cabinet? How do I tie in a 12v connection to test the over cab from that point? The bathroom light?

Just thinking about how it was noted the wiring starts back there for the over cab lights, or so I thought I read. Was hoping maybe something was simply unplugged. Or maybe someone knew what that plug went to. I’ll get to metering it. Thanks!

Still looking into this one. Climbed under the truck to look at the wires Linda mentioned, and there was one unclipped plug and one wire disconnected. Wondering if it could play a part. I haven’t pulled off the bathroom mirror yet. And still need to meter the wires at the markers. The picture with the missing clip is from the drivers tail light by the black tank, and the other is from the drivers side back by the taillight and left marker light looking towards the black tank. Thanks for any tips.

Thanks! Time to order one up and get it installed!