wadingthroughlife

All excellent points. I spent some time researching some of the Amazon specials. Generac & GenMax seem to get reviewed well overall. A few youtube reviews seemed to indicate they were fine compared to HF or others in the same class. There are some consistently good reviews (as well as a couple pretty bad ones) on this one that's going for around $550, and an extra 3 year "no questions" warranty is available from Assurion via Amazon for about $65. ‎3300w Starting / 3000w Running ‎47 Pounds Similar db level to Honda I figure if the warranty is dependable, it could be a worthwhile option. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09HBYH8GB/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A20F50ULGHRLRU&psc=1

Thanks for your thoughtful response and recommendation! Adding it to my list of considerations!

I'll look more towards that Generac unit or something else anyone might recommend. It seems to add power but not a ton of extra weight and costs less. Perhaps the 3 year warranty could be a good buy too.

It seems to come with one or at least states it is not necessary on this unit.

Hi All! Generator question here for our 1987 Sunrader 18' 4x4: We're adding a rooftop AC (RecPro 9.5k) and looking for ways to power it and the rest of the rig when boondocked for hot & humid Southern springs and summers. It'll likely ride on the rear hitch basket when in route, sharing space with a box holding whatever outdoor gear we take along. I don't think I'll need to take it in the fall or winter. We'll likely do a minimal solar setup in the future for topping off the house battery on winter, fall, and early spring trips. I'd like something reliable, light weight, reasonable quiet, priced well, and with enough power to support the below uses + the AC. Thoughts on what we can get away with power wise running the other items are appreciated. I assume I should add up the watts or amps of any used items, but I'm hoping for help saving that research, honestly. Thanks kindly in advance for any help! Considering the Honda eu2200i (1800w running/2200w startup) and Generac GP3300i (2200w running/3300w startup) We dont run much else other than the below at any point in a trip: -water pump -maxxfan in 2nd overhead vent -led overhead lights -fridge on propane when boondocked -water heater (electric start) -phone charger(s) - NO microwave/coffee pot/TV/etc A/C Specs: Rated cooling capacity: 9500BTU/H Input needed for cooling: 1370 W Rated current for cooling: 12.6 A Maximum power input: 1590 W Maximum Amp Draw: 14.6Amps Startup Amp Draw: 14.6Amps https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-low-profile-9.../

Thanks! It worked out well camping this weekend after changing out the old for the new. I wound up finding one on Amazon based on the stamped number on the regulator. The trickiest part was ensuring a good fit with no leaks while working in the tight space. I do plan to add in a "T" somehow, so we can run an outside flat top griddle a friend gave us sometime. Just have to determine if that comes in after or before the regulator. I'm guessing it depends on if the "T" is a kit with it's own regulator or not.

Oh that’s wise; thanks!

I’m not sure why it’s flipping the photo of the regulator without the covers upside down.

Thanks for the info-I’ll snap a photo momentarily. Hopefully it’s the regulator, since it’s all gas that stopped flowing (the stove burners went out too when the furnace stopped blowing warm). The blower kept going and blowing cool air. I’m all for swapping the furnace board to a smart board, but I was guessing it was something tank side since the stove burners were affected as well. If not the regulator, I guess the excess flow valve could be tripping for some reason. Unfortunately it’s only happened when it’s sub freezing cold out after running for a few hours.

Hey All, I’m looking for help locating the correct propane regulator and confirmation I should replace it. I’m relatively certain there are no leaks. Our alarm hasn’t noted anything, and the tank holds pressure. Our 1987 Sunrader has a horizontally mounted, permanent, tank. I’m pretty sure the regulator is going and should be replaced, but I can’t be sure which replacement to choose. The issue: We camped three nights, two of them plugged in at a campground and each night it was below freezing out. I woke around 2am and the furnace was blowing cold air. This was after having spent time inside since dinner with the furnace working great and cycling on and off no problem. I checked the stovetop gas flow and the flames burned out pretty quickly. I turned off the gas valve and waited 10 min and slowly turned back on, and everything flowed again. The furnace blew hot and burners worked. The stove burners do have some orange tips on the flames time to time. The propane tank was half full on the second night for reference. The same issue happened both nights we were plugged in at a site. No fun waking up to a cold house with dogs on the floor, even if they are in beds and blankets. ALSO, Does the tank have to be emptied to replace the regulator, if it is the regulator at issue? Thanks all!

No GFCI that I’m aware of. I think we only have one, maybe 2 actual outlets and a 12v cigarette outlet. Should I replace the outlet by the oven with a gfci and perhaps recombine the RV outlets from the two sets of wires into one breaker and do the power converter onto its on 15A? Ie the way WME mentioned above? don’t want the magic smoke getting out.

That’s how it’s set up except one 15 amp also has a second RV 115 outlet. 15 amp= RV 115v outlets 1 15 amp= power converter & 2nd RV 115

This ^^ but leaving the AC input for DC converter combined with one of the 2 sets of house wires' black as done originally, while putting one of those 2 originally combined sets of house wires' black on it's own (AC) breaker. I guess it could just stay all combined, but I liked the idea of distributing them to their own breaker.

Thanks for the tip! I've currently reused the 15A breaker from the old converter to feed the DC power just like it was set up. I was planning to unbundle one of the 2 (romex?) sets of wire that were previously nutted together along with the DC feed and place it on it's own 15A breaker from the approved list on the instructions. I was going to leave the DC feed nutted with one on the same reused 15A, reasoning that it worked before, which might not be the best line of thinking. Would you recommend swapping all the Breakers to the version you linked? I lightly read about the differences.

Accurate analysis. I’ve done the swap. I added the 30A to take in the shore power. I retained the original method with nutting that same bundle coming from the two sets of wires behind the converter to the single 15A along with the DC feed. I’m planning to get another 15A breaker in the morning and separating that bundle so only one set of wires goes to each breaker with one getting the DC feed as well. Is that good form? I also brought over the 20A for the air conditioner but left it nutted vs in the breaker until spring when we install the unit. The DC side seems to have gone pretty easily.

Well this is why I’m going through the exercise of research and asking questions before removing anything.

Hm. I don’t have an air conditioner currently though. I wouldn’t have expected it to be prewired to a breaker but maybe it isn’t and that the yellow capped wire in the picture here. From the photo, I guess it seems the shore is coming into a 15A Main breaker then unless the written descriptions on the sticker are out of order.

I grabbed a 30A for the main. When you say A/C will be the 20A, do you mean air conditioner? I’m not certain where or if the dedicated wire will be there for the air conditioner. I hope so. The photo of mine old one shows A/C on the existing 20A but I think that’s existing AC current supply that will be replaced by the 30A breaker.

I’m swapping the entire unit out. Already made my gap filler surround.

Hey All, 1987 18’ Sunrader with the 6345 converter and have a replacement PD4045 Mighty Mini on hand for swap out. I’m pretty weak on electrical but forcibly learning and have read a few posts on this here. I was having trouble with a few parts of this replacement before jumping in. 1) The main breaker on the old converter is 20A, where I mostly see a 30A in videos. I haven’t confidently located the proper replacement even with reading the approved breakers mentioned. I planned to go to Ace or HD in the morning, but I can also order if that is easier. 2) I’ll be putting on a rooftop AC in the spring. Is there anything within the converter on the AC breaker side I need to do? I’m hoping the wiring is already in place but uncertain how to check from the converter end of things. There are presently 2 breakers- the main 20A and a 15A. 3) How many of the 15a breakers do I need? Any help is appreciated. The AC would probably be the only appliance that 12v doesn’t also run. Thanks!!!!!

I'll say the ground clearance alone with the 4x4 and 15" wheels + 215 tires has made us feel more capable of going into areas we really wanted to with full fuel and water tanks. We haven't really "had" to use 4wd. Once, in Colorado, a spot down a hill we chose to camp at near a river got a little damp from overnight rain. We probably could have gotten up and out in 2wd, but I didn't feel like slipping and wanted to use 4wd for the first time in the rig (it was our trip home from purchasing it). The 4wd crawled right up the dirt/gravel patch with ease. For us, the ability to go where we want on forest roads and in the mountains and hopefully get out without much trouble was key. We have a winch and some light recovery gear as well.

The lower line to the converter from the isolator apparently was cut and re crimped at some point. Corrosion and a lose connection from forest road bumps. I’ll have to extend it a little, but after putting in a new connector and heat shrink jacket, all seems well. Still replacing the converter, but at least it isn’t as top priority. Thanks All

Any updates, Chris? Seems super interesting! We're gearing up to mount a rooftop A/C and do some solar and batteries, and I'd love to be able to boondock with an A/C as well as run a good fan while driving.

I guess I was wondering if the whole converter had failed since 12v was out and was glad to see we still had 110. I’ll check that converter relay and recheck all the battery cables and grounds I can find. I am getting good voltage to the exit wire off the isolator under the hood leading to the converter. Is there a ground in the converter box itself near where the power comes in from the battery in under the hood? I haven’t pulled the panel out to check anything there yet.

Thanks so much! I owe some helpful contribution at some point as well after all my questions, haha.