WME

Solenoid NO, means its a solenoid idolator, "normally open". simply put it means that when there is no trigger voltage the solenoid is open and isolating the batteries from each other. When the engine is running the 12 volts to the small terminal triggers the solenoid, it becomes closed connecting the batteries and the alternator charges BOTH batteries

A manual switch is the simple answer. Anything hooked to the turn signal is going to blink the monitor on and off which would be really annoying. If a manual switch is to simple? What would work would 2 12v relays and a 12v time delay relay. The normal relays would prevent a back feed situation. The time delay relay would keep the monitor on constantly and let it shut off after so many seconds after the signal is off time delay...https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-Adjustable-Infinite-Cycle-Loop-Delay-Timer-Time-Relay-Switch-ON-OFF-Mod-Ws/202306045971?hash=item2f1a614813 normal relay..https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Matsushita-JS1FJ-12V-12-Volt-DC-Coil-10-Amp-SPDT-Miniature-PC-Mount-Relay/263001959937?epid=2146676149&hash=item3d3c236e01:g:C64AAOSwIaFZJdoq

IMPORTANT stuff...The 3 hole vs 6 hole thing, additional info. They use different wheel nuts. The 6 hole uses a flanged nut and the 3 hole uses a coned nut. The wheels are centered differently.

Finally someone with more action and less words. Diesel powered Toyota MH have been a hot topic for a long time, now there is a conversion

Sigh.. Guys the OPs original post picture is a solenoid isolator, the OPs hand drawn diagram is a solenoid isolator. Moving 1 wire would make it work correctly. All the posts about a diode isolator are wasted bandwidth and a confusion factor. KISS If some Sunraders came with an alternator field wire providing a control voltage great. Which terminal??, the OP would still have to move a wire to make their isolator work

See if they will build and ship.

Several local rock nuts have used these guys...https://www.alcanspring.com/index.htm EVERYTHING they do is custom.

NM is like WY long drives to get anywhere. Did you try Hobbs Spring and Suspension? McBrides Spring and Welding is a lot closer

Where are you and where is it?

Check out Timbrens...http://timbren.com/timbren-ses/ If your feeling frisky check out ZUK mod...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f129/zuk-mod-250033/

OK, there is light at the end of the tunnel and it aint a train.... Bubba wire OK Thick white wire OK CB wire OK Just remove the "the other white wire" and replace it with a 12v switched wire. I think some folks use the power wire for the wiper motor, just check first

This is going to be a slow slog, but 1st question where is the large white wire spliced to. Is it spliced to a small wire some where or other wires spliced to it? Does it go to a plug on the back of the alternator? The large red wire at the top of the alternator goes to the battery. yea got one right, the CB terminal is to a C/B and then to the house battery, yea got 2 right. The problem is the control wire and the charge wire to the solenoid. You have a solenoid isolator. There is also a solid state diode isolator, many require 4 wires. If some time in your Toys past a PO converted from a solid state to a solenoid type it would explain the odd wiring

If your pic is labeled correctly, then the solenoid is wired WRONG. CB is correct. The large wire from the alternator should go to A, the large wire to the truck battery should ALSO go to A. You can also run the alternator wire to the battery, then a large wire from the battery + to A on the solenoid, electrically its the same. There should be a small wire to + that is a switched 12v source, IE when the ignition key is in the run position there should be 12v to +. With the key off there should be 0v to +. The deal is the 12v to + turns the solenoid on and the truck alternator charges the truck battery and the house battery. With the key off the solenoid is off and the house battery is isolated from the truck battery , so that if you run the house battery down the truck will still start. The ground for the solenoid is the mount bracket so it should be bolted to solid metal

Rookies driving rule #1. If you go up a hill in 2nd gear, you go down the hill in 2nd. Give your overworked brakes a brake?

Flat towing with 4 wheels on the ground is OK with a proper towbar setup. The key is PROPER. Look at Blue Ox towbars for ideas Brakes...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/towing-hitches-jacks-chassis/vehicle-towing/supplemental-braking-systems/towed-vehicle-braking-systems/roadmaster-9700-brake-system_9700?jt=1&jap=1o3&js=1&jsid=36859&jcpid=8a8ae4cd48005458014820e2e0170ec4&jkId=gcp:se_36859:pp_297526964861:ag_46947118725:cp_194253624:n_g:d_c:cr_231578161136&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3IiX9Jyw2wIVEp7ACh056A8rEAQYAyABEgLjEfD_BwE

Random thoughts... 1 V-6 power..probably OK 2 Frame extensions marginal...The hitch has to be frame mounted, reinforced extensions to the frame required. The bumper ain't going to get it. 3 Brakes marginal. .They are designed for a 4000lb pickup, and now they are stopping a 6000lb MH AND then you want to add another 1500lbs.....? 4 Even though the V-6 has a lockup torque converter you will need a big transmission cooler. The locking converter will be unlocked a lot with this load. P.S. ? I towed a 1000lb trailer through the Rockies with a hot rodded 4 cylinder. I had reinforced frame extensions and the hitch went through the HD bumper. The trailer had electric brakes.?

Quick pull a mold off both fender flares. In the future you can support your travels selling replacements to unfortunate owners who are in need. With all the money your going to make you could find a custom rubber molding extruder and get a couple thousand ft of fender flare molding made. Its approaching its weight in gold value. ?

Went camping on Memorial Day weekend. BLM land, Continental Divide, 7500ft. Very interesting time

Volts are a static thing like a 12v battery. AMPS is the battery working and expending energy or being charged. Most Toyota MH have a 12volt- 60 amp alternator. OLD school explanation volts are like water pressure in a hose (a static thing) , amps are the water flowing (as gallons per minute).

R-134 and R 12 don't mix. The OPs system was cooling a little so it has some R12. To convert to r134 correctly you change hoses, flush the system, add correct R134 oil, vacuum and recharge. On a working R12 system its just easier to buy a couple cans of NOS R12

Shape Styrofoam as needed, glue it in to remaining pieces. Rough sand it a bit undersized. Use mat or heavy glass cloth. Make it a bit thicker than needed and sand to shape. If the foam blocks mounting just pour some gas on the foam and it will desolve.

Verbiage is important when doing internet diagnosis. AMPS or VOLTS??? How are you measuring??

Just for dreams...https://www.montanaangler.com/fly-fishing-yellowstone-park/firehole-river For cold dash air my first post stands. Yes...https://www.ebay.com/itm/FREON-12-AIR-CONDITIONER-REFRIGERANT-R-12-12oz-with-CAN-TAP-HOSE-INSTRUCTIONS/232783215223?hash=item3632f5fa77:g:55IAAOSwR9pbCbiU NO https://www.ebay.com/itm/R12-COMPATIBLE-A-C-REFRIGERANT-MAXI-FRIG-12a-1994-OLDER-RECHARGE-REFILL-KIT/122508929925?hash=item1c8619eb85:g:2H4AAOxyqUpQ8fty

Here we go again....Roof air or dash air???

To bad you don't fish Yellowstone? Ive got 40 lbs of R12 stashed. Unfortunately all my stuff is R134. Try Ebay for NOS R12 and the proper hose kit.