WME

The blue knob is NOT the control valve. The main valve (only shut off ) is on the tank. The line to the regulator comes from main valve. The blue knob should be tight and left alone. This is a single stage regulator and under cool humid condictions they can ice up. That is why most newer units have a two stage regulator. At this point you should go to an RV repair shop have them install a two stage regulator and check the entire system. If you don't understand your propane system messing around with it is a good way to make a big bang. WME

Vent valve?????? With the master valve turned on the entire system has gas pressure in it. Even if you are not using anything. Is your regulator a single stage or a two stage??

I wired in 2 T1/34 blue lamps and a switch into the cealing in the bathroom, makes a great nite light. If you leave them on no problem as the draw is only about 20ma.

Bumper to bumper, that makes it sound bigger.

E-Bay 4x4 pop top, maybe a little pricey but maybe not. Kinda of hard to price a 4x4 ebay #4614825219

Sounds like a trip to a distributor rebuild shop is needed. No advance will cause low power and bad MPG and may cause an engine to overheat. It must be fixed

DANGER WILL ROBINSON.....To bolt on a turbo designed for a Celica, or a lightly loaded pickup is asking for problems. On a long hill with the throttle floored the underhood temps would get unreal , plus the pistons would take a real heat job with minutes of full boost instead of seconds. When Toyota made the 22RET they did many things to the inside of the engine, lower compression and bigger oil pump for starters. They also water cooled the turbo. Normal hot rod stuff might serve you better. I live in the Rocky Mts and have to climb 8000 ft + passes to get most anyplace. I've made the following mods to my engine. Oversized TB, a 270 "RV" cam, oversized valves, 3 angle valve job, a port matched head and a cat back 2.5" exhaust . Also new rings and rod bearings. To many times I've seen a newly hop-up engine blow the old rings out and the oil use goes way up. I guessing its in the 135hp+ range or about the same as the Toy factory turbo. The combo is MUCh improved in the hills, sorta feels like a permanent 10-15 mph tailwind on the flats.

Just an oddball thought. Find you a good 4x4 and a clunker Raider and swat the MH part. Several of the RV rentals used to do this when the coach got to high of milage, Used to see 95 Coaches on 97 Chassie

The only thing about a 1000lb trailer is it soon weighs 1500lb. With careful frame reinforcement and a good hitch I tow a 5x8 trailer at about 800lb. With a stock engine the Toy was marginal, with some intelligent hopup work I can now run at 60mph on the flats, A hill still slows things down a bunch

Before every body gets to excited. The 22r/re/ret were never in the JDM. It is very rare to find a 10 year old car in Japan so the odds of even finding a V-6 are slim. If you want to do the Fast and Furious thing you might find something interesting, of course there is those silly EPA and safety rules

I had the same problem, sooo went to the Big orange box store and bought a digital wal theromostat. It only works for heat, but it doesn't have to be level to work like the old one.

Rule 1 its a Toyota truck, but the camping part is normal rv stuff. If something breaks fix it right no bailing wire and bubble gum. Things to watch for on a Chinook is the rear door and the floor there. Also the canvas, windows and the erector set stuff for raising the roof. Good luck and welcome to the club.

I have a 21ft with a 22RE, I live in the Rockies. Lots of 8-10,000 ft passes. Not a speed demon but I usually get over the tops at 35-45mph. Important thing is I do get to the top eventually.

With a stock rear bumper towing is very risky. Most of us who tow anything have reinforced the frame and rear bumper

For sure keep the Toy full of fuel and propane. Add water in the event of a coming storm/disaster. We use ours like a life boat. I think the Toys have a 60 amp alternator.

Air shocks place to much stress on the lower shock bolts. There are quite a few cases of them breaking off when using air shocks. Remember this aint just an empty pickup, the rear axle has about 400lb on it.

Stepping us from a VW a Toy is going to seem like a palace. 5-sp are hard to find, but are out there. A 4sp is more common in the pre 85 units. Most folks with the auto don't use the O/D so a 4sp is about the same as far as rpm down the road. In reality a auto is fine for where you are, it will go down the road at 60 with no problem. Just add a trannie cooler, Toyota did just that on the V-6 and there is very little trannie problems with the V-6. The read dinner will have a small side bath, but the rear makes into a queen bed. A rear bath is much bigger, some have captian chairs with a folder table and other have the dinette. Both have a side couch that makes in to a small bed, the side dinette will also make a bed. Just wait for the right one and don't rush. AS important as the rear end is NO water leaks or damage and that everything works. If you are handy with tools and things the choices are more and cheaper. You can't save enough when buying one to have a pro do major repairs. Many came with generators, Onans are better than Kolers as Koler is out of the RV business. The Onan 2800 micolite is about the best within its size limits. Good luck

The sensor for the gauges is in the front of the engine under the upper radiator hose. Green body. The temp sensor for the transmission is on the passenge side of the engine, in the middle front to back, just below the cam cover ,Blue plug one wire.

V-6 are faster, but the 4 is cheaper to run and fix. It will get you there sooner or later.

I have not looked. The factory says to remove the relay from the "pedal bracket" to check. Doesn't say which bracket

Which transmission??? I think you may have a A43D,if so the thermo sensor is NOT in the transmission, but up by the thermostat. It has a single wire. Shorted below 109 deg, Open above 131 deg. Main relay is "on" pedal bracket. Continuity on pins 1,2. Pin 1 upper Right, pin 2 upper left. Have fun

Onan Microlite 2800 was used in lots of Toy's. L 24"xW 16.4xH 12.3 113lb

Got everything but the stroker , budget couldn't handle that. Any final package is 2mm overboreTB, new EB head with O/S valves, 3 angle valve job and pocket porting, 270 cam, 2" into 2.25" exhaust. Sorta drives like a perment 10-15mph tailwind. Maybe a header next year if I can one that will fit an auto with column shift.

Finally got it all done.... I like it.....