WME

Mine lives inside the rear bumper.

Block the truck so it can't roll. Jack up one rear wheel. Put a piece of tape on the drive shaft and rear wheel. Put trannie in neutral and turn the rear wheel one complete turn. Count the drive shaft turns. Then I forget either divide by 2 or multiply by 2 to get ratio. You will know which way to go.

The VW roof design is what I was thinking of for your Moon Roof. The easy answer for your tire is to run what you got, but change the axle ratio to 4.56. It would be within a percent or so of being correct and still give you ground clearance. It is also an easy tire size to find should you need a tire fast. Maybe check the build plate and see what ratio was factory and then check your truck, many times the P/O will have changed the ratios to keep from bogging down off road when the big tires were added. I supposed that a camping weight is really needed before trying out new tires. The ones you have now are LT rated for 2200lb each.

Without the actual weight of your rig we can't do much, but guess. Most of run over 45psi in the front and 55 psi in the rears. Adjust the airbag pressure until your rig sits level when its loaded

The steel wool is to plug the hole with.

I used different pic for my avatar and my member picture

The only thing that worries me is the turbo. With a trailer its going to be working the engine harder

Maybe because most users hav not posted a picture.

Your probably moving out of the small Toyota pickup range. You would need a Tundra to carry a decent cabover camper. If you thought your Toyota MH was small you haven't seen nuttin yet. You might look at a small 5th wheel trailer. The recent clunker program has taken a lot of low priced large pickups off the market and good used ones are going up in $$. Good luck

Most of the time the factory rear brake bias controller is still set at the factory setting for an empty pickup. Air shocks make it think your an empty truck because your M/H is setting level. You need to adjust the bias lever an far as you can to make the controller think you have a heavily loaded pickup and shift more brake effort to the rear brakes. I removed the lever from the axle and bolted it to the frame so I have max rear brakes, works good for me. If that's to drastic then adjust the mounting bolt as far up as you can.

The radiator has a plate cooler built in. It works OK for a Pickup. but not to good for a heavely loaded camper. It cools from the water in the radiator NOT the air. So it adds heat to the radiator and MAKES IT RUN HOTTER. An external wcooler helps keep the trannie much cooler

I have no idea where you could fine the parts and pieces, but back in the 70s good ol GM build some Nova and such like with a cloth sun roof. You would slide and fold the roof cloth back and open a BIG hole.

The cab is 2 tone also.

Coat some plastic 3/4" hose with mold release and then glass them in on the back side. Remove when mostly set. The ribs will make the layup Very stiff. My Toy isn't painted it has 2 color side paneling. After I get some side strips it will look even better.

It would burn the valves if no body was setting the clearance. On a lot of Toys the valve clearance DECREASES with mileage. SO after awhile you leave a valve open and in about 50 mi the seat is burnt. Never heard of blowing out a lower end with to much compression after a valve job. BUT I have had a older mid mileage Toyota 22re go from 2500 mi per qt of oil to 700mi to the qt after a valve job and a HP cam. A ring job solved that and its now 5000mi+ on a qt of oil.

Go to your local RV dealer a roof A/C should be about $800.

V-6 advantages, 35 more HP, but it still weighs 6000lb and still no trailer. Better brakes, slightly larger water system. stronger automatic transmission......5spds very rare V-6 disadvantages, cost big bucks if some thing go wrong, worse gas mileage. Especially if yous that extra hp to boogie down the highway. The V-6 at 65-70 mph is a 10-12mpg rig.

Don't forget when your running your generator your converter is charging the coach battery too.

All of the Toys are under powered, have limited water and holding tank capacity. Most are almost over loaded just sitting empty in the driveway. Add water, food 4 guys and their instruments and you got something thats way overloaded and unsafe. With an overloaded Toy towing a trailer is not a good idea, so your stuck with keeping your stuff inside So you have been warned All 4 of you go to an RV dealer and get in a small unit and see how its going to feel. But if you must, look for a 22RE with a 4sp. The 4c automatic transmissions are a weak point in a Toy MH. Find a rear bath with couch and dinette. Or a side bath with rear dinette. The rear dinette makes a Queen sized bed. Get one with dash air already installed as adding air can cost a bunch. A generator with roof air will increase your comfort, but will add to the initial cost, but again cheaper to get from the get go than to add later. Adding roof air is easy if your Toy is pre wired for A/C, just takes $$$.

I think reality will rear its ugly soon, like about 2 hr in to the first trip. You should be looking at a 27+ft class A, not a tiny 20ft Class C with just 2 under sized sleeping areas and limited water.

Thats the stuff. With a hairdryer you can form it around a 6" radius, I cut it with an old fashion set of sheet metal shears, snip, snip. It comes in white, dove gray and almond Hows your "pop off" camper conversion going???

OK I've got a mild hot rod engine in mine. I installed a 3 row radiator and a big external automatic transmission cooler. The factory transmission puts a lot of heat into the radiator. I regularly pull a 750lb trailer over 10,000 ft passes in the summer with the needle staying around the 1/2 mark, the trannie temp is just under 210. On level ground It runs more than 1/3 but less than 1/2 mark, with a trannie temp of 190. I have a 195 stat.

Go to Home Depot and ask to see some FRP, Fiber Reinforced Plastic. Its the stuff that you see on the walls of a lot of commercial rest rooms. I redid my shower with that. I just removed the wallpaper and used the recommended glue to attach the FRP to the wall. Used some of the original trim and some caulking and its been good for 5 years. Its 100% water proof, and everything else resistant.

Start with cheap and work your way up. Clean radiator and A/C condenser, check fan clutch, check fan belt tension, check hoses for firmness, change thermostat. After that its a water pump, then a radiator replace/repair

Your just going to have to get a volt meter and start following the voltage. It could be anything from the bettery is in backwards to a bad ground to blown fuses.