WME

Rebuild vs overhaul. Rebuild.... new head, cam and valves, new OS pistons and rings, new rod and main bearings. The block needs to be bored over sized for the new piston. Overhauled.. Have the head checked for straightness, have the valves ground. With the OHC set up is very iffy to plane the head to make it straight. You would have to hone the block and install new stock sized rings, new rod and main bearings. Its sorta of a pain but with a friend you can do a hillbilly overhaul on your engine with the block in the truck. New rings and rod bearings only can't change the main bearings. If you take the block out then you can do mains too. Either way rebuild or overhaul you will need a new water pump, oil pump and a timing chain set. FWIW I've done the hillbilly in the truck overhaul on 2 engines and it work out just fine, Ive also rebuilt engines that turned out fine, IF you can find a good machine shop to do the block correctly. Sloppy machine work when you are rebuilding is much worse than doing a hillbilly overhaul

A 120w is overkill for your needs. SOoo you can hard mount them on the roof. Even though you lose some power you would still have enough for your needs If your parking in the shade all day then portable is the only way, you would have to put them away at night or if you went for a walk. Or have nice neighbors....

The only thing about a power point in the front is rain when your driving. A 60mph raindrop will go through the smallest gap

Your roof "bubble" has a near vertical wall on the backside, thats where you should make the holes. As an idea of crude way to do this, you will need a grommet, 1" threaded rod, some flatwashers, some nuts, terminal lug connectors. Drill hole, insert grommet, take the threaded rod put a washer and nut on it, push through the grommet and then washer an nut. Tighten nuts to compress the grommet. Put the lug on a power lead, then on the stud and add another washer an nut. Add a small water resistant box w/cover and your good to go. A bulkhead connector is a fancy version of this idea, it will also have a higher grade of rubber gasket. This way you pass the power through the wall with the connector, not the wire

Fan-tastic Fan

Checkout bulkhead passthroughs, also make the hole in one of the vertical risers on the roof. That way standing water wont leak in. WME

Adjust the air pressure when your loaded for a trip until your Toy sits level. Both side to side and front to back.

Using the external conduits and the cabnets, benches and such there would be very few visiable runs needed. You could also use flat wire glued to the wall and then painted over. www.flatwireready.com

Go to a Lowe's or such and look at their surface mount wire conduits. Some simple runs could be done with a long drill bit and pulling wires from the edge to the outlet. It would have to be single 12v runs otherwise the hole gets to big and would weaken the walls. If the Nida-core is thick enough you could glue in runs of PVC pipe to pull wires through. The pipes would add back some of the strength lost due to wire runs.

Its a long read, but try www.thesupercamper.blogspot.com

25 and 26 are too rich and too lean. Something is way outa wack to get both codes at the same time. Sounds like you have a lemon and require a real good Toyota tech and not a certified parts changer. Can you say Chevy Vortec V-6 4.3L. If you want to keep this Toy otherwise get it running and sell it for what you can.

Studs are usually an upgrade over head bolts. The studs go into the block, then the head gasket, then the head, then the rocker support, then torque the nuts. The idea being that "racers" often take the head off, by using studs there is no wear on the block bolt hole threads.

You had better get some to measure. But from what I remember the 1ton 6 bolt rims have a different pattern than the 4x4 rims. You should be able to find a 4:10 rear they are very common on the RVs Are you running duallys or singles on the back?? There is a company that makes a full floater conversion for the standard nonfloater axle, no idea about how strong it it. Many 4x4 off roaders use one.

If the bars are "sprung" then raising them up is only temporary. The Swayaway bars are 25mm yours are 22mm so they are a lot stiffer. The HD bars are about $220 a set.

If your is an 83 chassis your out of luck, If you have an 84 Chassis then Swayaway has a set of hd torsion bars for your truck. You might just try adjust your torsion bars first.

Yep its normal. You use the five lug for the front, you can't dirve with a flat front tire. You remove the flat rear wheel and limp in to a repair shop on 3 wheels.

A new water pump is only $30 if any doubt replace. The impeller is not serviceable. There is pressure (radiator cap) on the pump when the engine is running so the drip test won't show much.

Bilstein if you can foot the bill ( $256 for 4), KYB is next for a few $$ less ($215 for 4). Monroe is the bang for the buck champ, ($135 for 4). Remove one of your rears and give it a few pumps and see how it is. While your at it check the spring bushings, if their worn then the axle can flop around an inch or so and that makes for a sloppy ride.

Are you saying that the front cast iron bracket that holds the 2 rocker shafts is broken??? The only thing I can think of is a badly warpped head or some time it its life it was removed and dropped. The bolts that support the rocker shafts are also the head bolts so removing them and putting them back is sorta iffy on the head gasket. Do you have any idea of the history??? Water pumps usuall fail at the seals or bearings. Feel for smoothness when turning and check for leaks or weeps. Make sure the impeller is OK. Good luck WME

1. It should charge from the truck engine. 2. Sounds like a bad isolater. 3. Follow wires and check voltages at the connection points.

I have my Toy set up so that everything works automatically no mater what power source I'm running. If I'm on shore power it runs all, next level is the generator running all, then the inverter running all if there is no other power available. It requires 2 auto transfer switches and I had to rework my circuit breaker box to prevent the charge loop. It now has 2 buss bars. The A/C, microwave and the ac outlets are on one side and the charger/converter is on the other. The first auto transfer switch has the generator and shore power into it. The output powers both sides of the breaker box. The second transfer switch has the output form the first switch on one side and the inverter on the other input. The output from the 2nd switch feeds just the A/C, microwave, outlet side. NO you can't run the A/C from the inverter, that's just the way things worked out. It took about 2 days to set things up so it will would work the way I wanted. My inverter has a remote on/off switch that I have mounted next to the microwave. That way the inverter isn't idling and running down the battery. BTW my inverter is hooked up with 0 cable, has a 200 amp fuse and it draws 100 amps when running the microwave, so a cigarette lighter socket ain't gonna get it..

How many tires on the rear axle???

If you can find the newer 3 hole, 6 bolt rims cheap enough they will work just fine.They just wont match what you have.

Custom & Commerical Wheel has a 5 lug to 6 lug adaper with the correct offset. I was in your spot, so I bought an adapter. I will bolt it on the front when needed and use the 6 bolt spare. Actually I'm looking for 2 of the 6 hand hole, 6 bolt rims so that I can convert my Toy to 6 bolt all around.

Best bet is a properly reinforced hitch and a trailer