WME
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Everything posted by WME
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First bit of advice, slow down your quest for immediate perfection, your driving too. If you can't find a fellow Toy M/H owner near by then find an RV dealer and have them show you how things work. Take good notes and then go home and try things out one at a time. Get a cheap volt meter and learn how to use it, that will be VERY useful soon! It sounds in your quest to buy an RV you got had by a less than truthful PO, so be it, with patience you can get your Toy up to speed, so to speak. A lot of first time buyers see a cute little RV and think its going to be easy. What they don't realize is that a 20ft Toyota MH has most of the same components and systems that a 45ft diesel pusher does. To top things off, your toy is 20+ years old, who knows what "creative" things the multiple PO's have done to it.. So again Patience Grasshopper. The group will help when we can.
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Pleated blinds, get the light proof ones.
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ANY motor home is noisy!!! Your moving a house through the air at 60mph. answers. Replace/add weather striping to the screen door and the main door. Make sure the anti rattle clips are installed on the stove. Some folks just lay a towel over the stove when traveling. Install vent covers over the roof vents, these will let you open the vents when your traveling and cut down on A/C use and increase the MPG and reduce the noise. Have the wife move around the unit when your driving and see what else is rattling, again a small piece of weather strip does wonders. Get some of the anti slip drawer liner and place it between all the pots and pans SLOW DOWN and learn to enjoy "travel at the speed of smell" your nerves will be calmer if you just don't hurry and try to travel the blue roads instead of the Hwys. Your MPG will better too.
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The very first Toyota mounted Sunraders were just a quick rework of the Sunrader slide in pickup camper.
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Yes the older Sunrader's had a lift able rear hatch the actual door is there too.
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Yep good stuff, with a Toy you have to be very careful about being on the roof. Where as with the BB you could hold a square dance there with no problems.
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This is what I was talking about when I wrote about the bladder thingie. I did not want to use technical term with a new owner. Many of us have these installed to cut down on the water running is short spurts. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/water-pump-tank.htm
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Does your BB have the diamond plate roof?
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The 496 weighs as much as two 22re engines. To say nothing about how big it is, ya know that's 7.4L. If you really want Power look at the Lexus 4L v-8 its a common swap into Toy P/Us. And if you really want a Chevy then a 5.3 L HO LS series V-8 is your answer. They can be found as an all aluminum engine. The 6L HO puts out more HP than the 496 and is the same physical size as the 5.3L. -
Are you familiar with the concept of being High Centered? It when you drive over a big bump an your front goes over fine but the bump hits the frame and lifts some off wheels off the ground. So a skid plate would be a good idea. Be sure to keep the bottom of the batteries above the bottom of the frame. If you just can't fit the batteries in front of the rear axle, then behind the axle will have to do and as close the axle as possible.
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I'm not sure of the clearences involved, but could you build pockets in the floor and put the long axis of the batteries parellel with the drive shaft and not drag the batteries???
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HD torsin bar http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/torsionbars.php
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You may have both. A water tank holds water (duh) and is usually in the 20 gal + range. SOME units have a accumulator bladder which is a small 2 or 3 qt size chamber. It would be mounted after the water pump. What it does is to smooth out the pump run pulses when you are running very small amounts of water to a sink.
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Sure you can run an A/C off a battery bank with a big inverter. The proposed battery bank here, 400lbs, $550, would power a 9K BTU AC for about 2 hr. It would take a 200w solar setup about 3 days to recharge it for the next 2hr of run time. A generator would recharge the batteries in couple of hours, but if you have a generator why run the AC of batteries?
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Much better, apples and apples. Now all you need to do is figure how many days do you want to run with out recharging AND how you plan to recharge. Paper napkin math shows that 200 w of solar will produce between 40AH and 80AH a day depending on how much day light you get. A Honda 1000w generator will give you close to your 144 AH max with a 2hr run time each day. A last comment..... DUDE you do realize that your CAMPING. Electric razor, A juicer and a blender???? 2 computers and a storage device???? Like really....
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Most Toys have the rear axle over the springs, flip the axle and put it under the springs. Then find HD torsion bars and install them to raise the front. THEN remove any thing heavy off the roof. Because your rig is going to be a bit tippy.
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Your list is fine, but you talking watts with your list and trying to size a battery bank in AH. What your missing is time. Right now your talking apples and oranges. Watts is a power right now measurement. AH is power supplied over a specific period of TIME Using the formula I gave you, you can rearrange it, to convert watts into amps. Then you multiply by time to get AH, then your talking apples and apples. Then add up each items AH to see how many AH you will need to operate your RV for one day. Then multiply that by the number of days you want to operate WITHOUT RECHARGING. Think of a load as something draining a battery (-), if you can charge your battery (+) with a generator, solar panel, drive your RV or what ever, you will be putting AH back in the battery. The larger the charger the smaller the battery can be. If your roof is big enough you can have enough solar power to power things forever with a small battery bank. The basic battery rating means that a 170 AH battery will provide 1 amp of power for 170 hours
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I thinks we have a math problem, watts and amps is different critters. Volts x amps=watts. So using your fan as an example 48 watts is the max power consumption. That translates into about 3.5 amps. You take 3.5 x the numbers of hours it is going to be actually running. Say 10 hours a day. That comes to about 35 amp hours (AH) per day. At low speed it is using about .3 amps, so for the same 10 hours it would use about 3 AH per day. That is the number, AH per day, you need to use to figure out the size your battery bank needs to be. So ONE of your 12v 170AH batteries would safely run the fan on low speed for 10 hr per day for 28 days. More fun battery stuff, for max battery lifespan do not discharge it much below 50% Thus 170 x 50% = 85 AH รท3= 28 days
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Basic question.... What do you need so much freakin power for??? There people who removed the stove because it weighed to much at 10lbs, and your asking about 400lbs You are aware that a 1000watt Honda generator weighs about 40 lbs?
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Real quick and dirty battery math. 6v batteries hook in series (+ to-), voltage adds, 12, 18, 24 volts etc. Amp hours remains the same. Batteries should be same AH. 12v batteries hook in parallel (+ to +), voltage stays the same, AH increases x the number of batteries. So for a 12v system you need 2 6v batteries. With 4 6v batteries you make 2sets of series and then parallel those 2 sets, for example with four 6v T105 you would have a 12v 450 ah battery bank. See clear as mud.:-)
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Yes and he said it was STRIPPED. I didn't say where to put the batteries, but to put them as far forward as he COULD within the limits of his redesign. AND don't forget the vertical
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Ok so just for fun. My 26ft Class A will get 10mpg at Toyota speeds. It has a 496 CID V-8 with a 4 speed auto, weighs 12,000 lb. It turns about 2100rpm at 65 mph. What sort of mpg do you think a Toy MH would get with that engine in it? And how much would it tow ?
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I'm with Derek on this one. As far forward of the rear axle as your cabin design allows and think about side to side balance too.
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We're mostly beating a dead horse here, the original poster has since posted else where that his Toy failed smog and because of shorted O2 sensors.
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Try jacking up the front first before buying anything. The rear overhang may bottom if the front gets too high.