Diesel_Aggie

http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission/rebuild-kit might be able to help you although they specialize in 4x4 transmissions. You can see that Toyota changed transmissions often. I personally would stick with the 4-speed. In 4th gear you are a 1:1 gear which is direct drive and the most efficient transmission of power. The 5th gear overdrive requires spinning an additional shaft in the transmission sucking up power. A 5-speed will give you lower RPMs but with 96hp you don't really have the power to turn the overdrive gear. You will get lower noise in top gear but odds are pretty good you will actually lose fuel economy. On www.fueleconomy.gov you can look at the 1984 Toyota truck fuel mileage and see this. If you can find their raw data files from 1978-1983 you will see this same thing on almost any small car with under 100hp.......lower fuel mileage on the 5-speed. As vehicles got more powerful in the 1980s this counterintuitive mileage situation disappeared.

Sunrader Floors: You will note in old posts that the problem is really a lack of supporting beams under the floor. I had some success in putting a 2"x2"x3/16" piece of angle iron slightly in front of the rear axle spanning the top of the frame rails. This really stiffened up the floor. Only problem is the frame rails start going up at this point which resulted in a slight hump in the floor. Using thinner angle iron would have helped some. The fuel tank was in the way of putting another cross bar in further up. With the tank out I strongly suspect that would work too. The floor is glassed in around the perimeter so full replacement is basically not possible. An idea we came up with but have not tried would be to section cut out the area between the cabinets making sure the saw blade does not protrude farther than needed to cut the top layer of wood. You could now scrape out the potentially broken down foam and replace. You might be able to glue it to gain rigidity or use hard spray foam. Then put replacement wood back down on top. Like I said this is just a brainstorm and has not been tested.

Knowing the year of your rig would be helpful. I'd suggest you search on my user name for posts from 2008. I'm almost positive you will find someone who told me what years of the rear axles have the same width leaf springs. This is one less thing to fabricate on the install. Later units have a wider leaf. I used a 1988 axle in my 1983 Sunrader and the springs were compatible. Odds are good you will have to import an axle from the U.S. If you have a pickup truck maybe it could be shipped to a terminal in Montana and held for pick up. Then you can drive over and load it up. I'm certain you only paid $100 for it and that should pose few if any problems with customs.

On my 1983 Sunrader the tanks appear to be stamped with a logo of the company who made them. I'd suggest you start by trying to get that info off of the tanks and then see if they are still in business. Other than that, there are companies that build custom RV holding tanks but it's very expensive. A Google search should turn them up. If you simply have a crack with no missing pieces, I'd find a plastic welder who can fix it. Motorcycle shops may be able to help you locate such a person. Or lay some fiberglass over the cracked area and see if that would seal it. And there is always JB Weld. Make sure all your pipes going to/from the tank are properly connected as well. If you have an 18' model you have the toilet going straight into the tank, the shower pan drain being piped in, a vent pipe going it and a drain pipe going out. Anyone of these can leak. The piping appears to be pretty standard stuff.

Are we talking about the exterior clearance lights? Just pulled the 14 light set off of my 1983 Sunrader. They are stamped Bargman 99. Type it in Ebay or Google and you will find many. Or if you Private Message me real soon I can send you mine for the cost of postage. They are only $2-3 new so I'm about to trash all 14 bases, 7 red lenses and 6 yellow lenses . You'd be better served buying new in my opinion.

On my 1983 18' Sunrader I found all sorts of access points. Pulling up the poor excuse for wood under the dinette cushions showed many gaps. Also looking around the wheelwells and pulling out the bottom drawers and shining a light in should show you some more. Seal all of them really well. Check that the roof vents seal tight and stay locked down. Check the door seal and make sure the door is not bowed. The power cord flap is also a poorly sealed area. Is the weatherstrip around the truck doors still good and tight? If not replace the seals. Side benefit is that the truck will be quieter. You may also have the style of windows with the two oval drain holes at the bottom with white plastic diverters that point down. These are often missing at this point and I have not found a source for them. Even if you have them, this maybe an area where a small mouse gets in. Plug them with whatever you can over the winter. Plug all the vents for furnace, refrigerator, water heater, etc. Consider putting poison not too close and not too far from the RV. You want to be close enough to get the ones that are headed to the RV, but not so close that you end up attracting them to the RV. Don't want the going in and dying.

If you plan to keep the vehicle spend the money on the Bilsteins. I don't have the mon the motorhome but have them on four of my trucks and on 3 of a friends trucks and all work well.

I went to www.napaonline.com and put in 1989 Toyota Pickup, searched "rear shock" and then refined by "rear wheel drive". They list a KYB 1989 Toyota Pickup Drive Trains : Rear Wheel Drive Comments: w/ 1 Ton Chassis;KYB Brand - GR-2 Per Car Qty: 2 Part number ATM K344090 I'm sure you can go to the KYB website and find their number. This gives you a number to cross reference with. http://eshocks.com/bil_veh.asp?Model_Index=3Q17&Manf=All&SubChar=Q shows a listing for the motorhomes. Do the mounts look the same between the truck and RV?

An idea of mattress prices: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/recliners-chairs/rv-mattress.htm

http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/toolbox/videos-demos.jsp#What_Every_RV_Owner_Should_Know http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/toolbox/videos-demos.jsp#The_Critial_Factor The first video covers proper tire maintenance, inspection, inflation, tire date coding, how to weigh all 4 corners of your RV, tire aging and loading. The second video covers front and rear blowouts and appropriate corrective action. Note that this applied to cars too. There are so many questions on tires on this forum that I think it might be beneficial to pin this "RV Tires 101" or put it an a Potential Buyer FAQ. Some of this relates to larger RVs but 95% of it also applies to Toyotahomes.

Call a Toyota dealer with your VIN number. See if they will tell you what part numbers are needed. Then see if NAPA or some other store can cross those part numbers over. Are we talking about front brakes or rear? Where are you stuck? Also have them look up a chassis cab if that is an option. You may have to get an experienced parts counter guy to pull out the paper book and look it up. Some things aren't in the computer and the "button pushers" don't have the thought process or knowledge to fall back on the books. Pulled up www.napaonline.com and put in 1983 Toyota Pickup and search Front Brakes. I refined by 2WD and 22R. I show two distinctly different sets of pads. The larger ones have a note saying 3/4 ton applications. They have 3 lines and I listed the part numbers. 4x4 brakes are different. I think this is your answer. TruStop TS7120 3/4 ton TS7047 1/2 ton Safety Stop SS7120 3/4 ton SS7047 1/2 ton Ultra Premium UP7120 3/4 ton UP7047 1/2 ton

This looks to be about a 21 foot model I did find this link http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=395 These have some unique floorplans....one even has a bathtub! http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=449 http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=906 Really very little info out their. The fist Clipper motorhomes were on GM chassis 1973-1980. Coachmen is using the name now for popup campers. Most have power steering, some don't. I really don't think it's needed as most of the weight is on the rear of the vehicle. My Sunrader doesn't have it but you wouldn't know it if I didn't tell you. The chassis specs will be the same as most other Toyota chassis cabs or RV from similar years.

Long interesting thread. Is it possible that you have detonation? Since it only happens at high speed that equates with heavy load. Was the head milled when it was off slightly raising the compression ratio? Maybe try a few tanks of Super Unleaded or an octane booster and see if there is any change. Is it possible that you have an exhaust restriction, maybe in the catalytic converter, that could cause the overheating under heavy load?

dayoff53: Thanks for posting the owners manual. Lots of good stuff in there, particularly the outer diagrams showing what each vent/hatch is. I've seen many past posts of "what is this exterior door for". Alvin: The spare tire cranks should be the same as on a similar era Toyota pickup truck and probably 4Runner. Shouldn't be too hard to find.

Thanks for posting the sticker. Gives lots of good info such as tank capacities and vehicle specs. This should be a treasure trove of information for anyone researching or buying a similar rig.

You are the first one I've heard with an original window sticker. If you have the opportunity to scan that and post it I imagine it would be a pretty popular item to view! I'm not sure if we have a scanned copy of the owners manual in the files/pictures section for this unit. If not it would certainly be appreciated. One of the most common question on here is where can I get a manual. They just don't exist anymore for the most part. You could probably even sell a scanned manual converted to .pdf on Ebay. You are really lucky to have such complete documentation/records. Should be a huge help in devising a maintenance schedule. I believe www.stocktonwheel.com offers the correct wheels for a spare. Other posters can better answer that and there are some older posts about it. I strongly disagree with removing a rear dual to replace a front flat unless it is a dire emergency. You most likely end up overloading the remaining tire even if you only drive a short distance. Overloading that tire can cause a blowout or damage the tire internally weakening it. A blowout on most Toyotahomes can cause severe damage that is difficult to repair. I'm sure several crank down tire hoists could be adapted from the salvage yard. Good advice on the rear hitch. Once you look underneath at the frame extension you'll see why. I was amazed when looking under mine. The bike carrier is just another added value! Congratulation on getting such a pristine unit.

The only thing I see that concerns me is the potentially original belts/hoses. Since you have good records you should be able to study them and see if they were ever replaced. If they are original you should be able to find a 10 digit 12345-67890 style part number on them. By the 90s some makers were using EPDM hoses instead of traditional rubber....but I don't know if Toyota was. EPDM hoses often make it to 10 years but 19 years on any hose is a ticking time bomb. When you replace the bulbs on the clearance lights, check the sealant on them. They are a very common leak area especially on the front. On gasoline generators it's not a bad idea to always run StaBil in the fuel. It helps prevent carb gunking when the fuel evaporates and prolongs it's shelf life. If you always run it, you can't forget to do it when you end up not using it. If you have ethanol blended fuel in your area, ryou might esearch their new ethanol product as well. http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/default.aspx Even new RVs are very difficult to finance. Anything over 10 years old is almost impossible to finance. You must have a small bank that actually looks at collateral value! Certainly makes sense to use the car unless you plan to sell it. If the Prius were totaled, would insurance pay it off? Something to check into as full coverage is dropped by some people on older vehicles. Gap insurance might be worth it in this instance if the car were to depreciate quicker than the loan gets paid down. I really like buying a vehicle with thorough records and with 1.5yo tires and a fresh carb rebuild I think you are getting a lot for your money.

Welcome to the forums. The price is right in line with other 92-93 Warriors in excellent condition that I've seen over the last three years. I think they are about the nicest and highest quality of all the Toyota RVs. You got the true 6-lug dual axle from the factory. Other than a 4x4 Sunrader these seem to have one of the highest resales of all the Toyotahomes. You're an experienced RV owner so I imagine you know to check all the seals and reseal them every 1-2 years to prevent water leaks. You should be familiar with how all the appliances work and how to thoroughly test them. Check the propane tanks to make sure they are still within 12 years from new or have been reinspected. On the mechanicals of the chassis I'd inspect all fluids and replace as necesary. Most industry guidelines say flush the brake fluid every two years, flush traditional green coolant every two years (orange Toyota coolant may be good for longer.....), strongly consider replacing tires if over 5-6 years old to avoid trip interrupting blow outs that can heavily damage an RV. Inspect all rubbers lines such as radiator hoses, heater hoses, bypass hoses, brake hoses and fuel line. Pull the wheels and visually inspect brakes, calipers, caliper slides, wheel bearings and lug studs/nuts. New wiper blades, fuel filter and oil/filter change if uncertain. Don't forget generator maintenance if you have one. Do a full walkaround with a helper to make sure all lights work. Forgot to mention the belts. Is it an aluminum roof? Some of the later ones were. Good luck in your travels. It sounds like a nice rig.

This is not making sense to me. If it sits overnight it's a cold start. If in sits a week it's still a cold start. So it seems the cold start system is functioning fine or this problem would occur on any cold start. What is sounds like to me is that fuel pressure is bleeding off somehow. I've never troubleshot this situation on a 22RE so what I'm giving here is general fuel injection info. Sometimes there is a check valve on the electric pump in the fuel tank. They can leak fuel back to the tank. A pinhole leak or loose connection somewhere in the system may might bleed off pressure and such air. When it stays wet, it stays sealed. When it sits and drys it leaks. After cranking for a bit it gets wet and seals again. This would be most likely at a section where rubber is used or at a threaded fitting. A weak fuel pump or restricted filter may also limit fuel pressure on startup. When you turn the key to the "ON" position and not "START" do you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds? What if you cycle the ignition switch to "ON" several times before starting to make the fuel pump run and build pressure? Any change in crank time? If so that is a real good indication of fuel pressure bleeding off. When was the fuel filter last changed? It's cheap to try. I like to dump the full contents of the old filter out on the concrete to see how clean the fuel is and to check for signs of tank rust. It's possible that an additive like StaBil would help, particularly if you have ethanol in your local fuel. The shelf life of gasoline has declined as the government meddles in its formulation. It's possible that the fuel in the lines is rapidly aging and you are having to crank this poor fuel through the lines to get to something better. You may also want to take the free training provided by Airtex, a large make of fuel pumps. Hope this helps, let us know how it goes. http://www.airtexproducts.com/Technicians/trainingprograms.html

http://www.calmarkcovers.com/custommade.html or try searching "custom RV covers" on your favorite search engine.

I had an axle failure in my 18' Sunrader. Do a search on "Diesel_Aggie" to pull up my old posts about it. Could have easily killed me and did substantial damage to the Sunrader. My opinion is EVERYONE should upgrade.....regardless of length.

Why not just drill holes in the new metal cover using the old plastic one as a template? I agree that the fewer holes you have in the exterior of any RV is best.

I've bought several vehicles including my Sunrader that way. My Sunrader was one of the few that didn't meet expectations. I took it anyway since $1250 was still an OK price. I've gone to Colorado to look at a car and didn't have to get out of my car to see it was a POS. I did get out to ream the salesman who told me how cherry it was when it had massive body work, Maaco type paint, no catalytic converter or any exhaust past the header, etc. I very specifically asked if there was any body damage or paint work. Step 1: Get tons of pictures and study them well. Ask about anything and everything that looks out of the ordinary Step 2: Have a very long conversation with the seller and tell them exactly what you are doing and how much it will cost you to fly/drive home. Hopefully they will be more honest. I have also sold quite a few vehicles. For local buyers I will not volunteer information....they have to ask. I won't lie, but I operate on the buyer beware philosophy. Otherwise you'll never sell a used vehicle! For someone coming from far away I'll walk out to the vehicle on the phone and explain every flaw in detail. Make certain they won't sell the vehicle before you get there. This may take a nonrefundable $100 deposit. After all they may very well pass up a sale to wait on you. What I suggest is that if they get more calls they should take the callers info and promise to call them back if the pending sale falls thru. That fair for everyone and protects the seller. Step 3: Have a backup plan to get home if you don't like what you see. Step 4: Learn the laws of your state and the sellers to make sure you get all the paperwork and signatures you will need. This gets very complicated if you miss one. Figure out if the plates stay on the vehicle or if you need to get a temp tag from your state because the seller keeps them. Figure out what to do about insurance. Step 5: Discuss an acceptable method of payment beforehand. Step 6: Honestly assess the vehicles condition before leaving home. Will you need to get the fluids changed before the drive home? New tires? Is there a spare? A jakc? Do all the lights work? When you look at the vehicle reassess the situation and adjust as necessary. Step 7: Don't get in a hurry when evaluating the purchase. Make sure you can get to hookups to test everything to confirm it works. Step 8: What do you need for the trip home? Bedding? Tools? Driving thru somewhere it will be below freezing? Is the unit winterized? Step 9: Allow time for unforseen events and have a backup plan. I had to tighten/change the alternator belt 4 times each on the way home. Good luck and hope this helps.

Is your speedometer cable driven? If so, there may be different plastic gears that drive the cable. They come with different numbers of teeth to compensate for different gearing/tire sizes. You can also see if there is a speedometer shop in your area. Sometimes they can make other adjustments.

It's a long shot, but have you tried Toyota? I've been able to get parts for my 1983.