canadasunrader

Jay. No tips from me as the only thing I have done so far is glass in a post on one wall. Three more to go. But I am waiting until I can afford another batch of epoxy. Soon. I would look into a rectangular shape for those ceiling braces. There is some good strong aluminum that comes in that shape and may afford you a smidge more headroom. I am contemplating putting two of those in myself and will get to it. Too many things to do all at once..... For me I am striving to get out from under the tarp. We had a sunny day here after a lot of rain, and it was feeling awfully dark every day. But I have all the windows in now. And I pulled out the old vents and cleaned everything up and put them back in. Want new vents, but all in good time. The cabover is nearly completed, but the front two plexi windows are next on my list so I can hopefully be so close to water tight. Exciting times. Baby steps. RC

Great Jay. Looks so good. Always a relief to move up from the floor. Once your ceiling is in clear sailing. Rick

Ok, thank you. Will give all of that a go once I get the beams etc ready. Rick

Ok, thanks for that, but what exactly does that mean. Just how much "drift angle" was in the original shape of the side walls? Rick

Thank you TG. Really appreciate your expertise. I finished the two windows located on the passenger side wall. They seem good now, finished with a good bead of polyurethane. I will take all of your comments and measurements into consideration as I move forward in putting two vertical beams in on that side. I'm so glad you responded because I was about to force those beams in and make them as straight as I could. Now I will have a little bit more relaxed idea of putting those beams in. I will post some pictures once I get somewhere. Rick

Thanks Linda. You guys are amazing and patient with all of us newbies coming along. It must be Groundhog Day for all the moderators as they see the same issues and questions coming up over and over. I may just attempt to take out one of the front windows to see where everything is at with it before I order anything new. From a cursory look it seems like the gasket and seal is in decent shape [although there definitely is a leak]. And the windows themselves are fairly straight, not concave as a lot of people have reported. Maybe I can just pull one out, soak the seal and gasket, clean the hole and the plexiglass and then put it back in? Once the windows are back in do you put a bead of caulk around the windows and the gasket? Rick

Not to worry. Thanks for thinking of that. I am just curious as to how the walls were in the beginning so I can attempt to get them somewhat back there. That is good to know before I attempt to straighten this one side completely out. Perhaps I will leave a little play in there just to be safe? Rick

Over 200 Posts! Moderator 6,584 posts Gender:From Outerspace Report post Hey... I found this post from Linda from early 2018. Posted January 4, 2018 Replace gasket https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Stripping-Two-Piece-Glass-Edge/dp/B00NL48HSE/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00NL48HSE&pd_rd_r=X064D7VP91W0GWMV08Q6&pd_rd_w=IQ93W&pd_rd_wg=dtd3V&psc=1&refRID=X064D7VP91W0GWMV08Q6 Locking strip https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-LK937-25-Rubber-Locking-Gaskets/dp/B00NL48VUS Tool to use https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-47000-Windshield-Locking-Strip/dp/B000COA1CQ/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000COA1CQ&pd_rd_r=BDBFSZB4D85GM4DRKDBC&pd_rd_w=bQriq&pd_rd_wg=C3fQO&psc=1&refRID=BDBFSZB4D85GM4DRKDBC Video of it being done http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/10239-resealing-wrap-around-windows-on-a-sunrader/&tab=comments#comment-95648 While the windows are out it might help to flatten the long side some. Lay on table with cured side hanging off. Heat with hot blow dryer. Heat gun is too hot, too much chance of a mistake. Then put some books or other non scratching item on the window so it will cool flat Linda S Oh he walks on the hood. Better to rig up some kind of scaffold to protect your cab. If I still lived in San Jose I would be there to help but far away now. Sorry

Hello there. I have poured over the many "cabover" posts and examples dating right back to the beginning. And I apologize if I missed this somewhere. But is there any way that someone who has experienced the pulling out of these windows recently can give us an idea of what we need? Resources currently available? I see that MAK listed in her very detailed and excellent 'Bound For Nowhere' post regarding the front cabover windows the materials and tools used: "Window Seal, Window Locking Strip, Locking Strip Tool, and a Trampoline tool." The window seal? The locking strip? I see there are a few locking strip tools available at local hardware stores. But what is the "Trampoline tool" and where does one get it? Thanks so much. Rick

Jay. I am not an engineer, but common sense would say I think you are correct in asking why you would need the cleat to be welded. As long as the beam itself is the right shape and strong enough to do the work I think glassing it in to a piece of wood at the roof line makes sense. Especially if it is made in conjunction with a few vertical studs on the walls. Rick

Jay. On the weekend I glassed in two steel studs sandwiched together to make one sidewall stud to enhance stability now that the entire house is empty. I was concerned about the epoxy not sticking to the zinc plated sheet steel. But checking up on it today it is all good. The steel studs you can buy at any hardware store are very light and quite strong when doubled up. Rick

Jay. I used the 123 primer to seal the floor. Not too expensive and by all accounts is perfect for the job. Not sure what you are going to use for ceiling beams, but be careful with aluminum if you are planning to use that and glassing them in. Google aluminum/ epoxy etc. Otherwise, looks great. Onward, upward. Rick

Thanks Linda. The Sunrader walls were originally straight up and down though? I will try my best to get it somewhere close. Rick

Thanks Greg. Looks like an interesting option. Living here in the PNW I like this option for the dry heat as opposed to propane's wet heat. Rick

Hey. Strange question/comment. I am assuming that the shell sidewalls are supposed to be relatively straight up and down? I checked today as I prepare to glass in a few aluminum studs. One side is pretty good, but the other is bulging out a good two inches. I don't know what I'm doing but thinking I can gently push it in from the outside while I glass a couple of studs in place. Any thoughts? When I gave it a bit of a try it warbled and complained and I didn't push too hard. Just FYI. I bought this 86 21' Sunrader as a complete rebuild. It was hit by a large tree branch that came through the shell in several areas. I bought it from someone who fiberglassed all of these spots. He did an ok job at putting the egg back together, but I don't think he knew exactly what he was doing. I figure this bulging may be due to this damage. Rick

Jay. Not anything specific. The levelling compound is what it is, it works, and I have no idea of the VOC once it's down. And I am only mentioning the natural building materials out of interest because so much of what goes into these units in rebuilding them is harmful to humans, especially in small spaces. The insulation, paint, and other materials are not all good for us or the overall environment. I am simply saying take it into consideration on the rebuild. Green is not for everyone, I get it. And although I have read quite a bit about it, it is difficult for most people, including myself to afford to do things in a new way. For example, I would love to insulate with natural wool, but it's going to be nearly three times the cost. Rick

Nice work Doug. Turned out very nice. Almost like one big surfboard. i did not go as far into the weeds as you and jay. But happy to be moving on to the 50 other things I need to do in my rig. Ceiling is holding and feels good. But have to get new vents/ fans so I can get closer to water tight. are the raders ever completely water tight? have been working on windows this week. It’s pouring rain and windy here in the nw so not much fun working under flapping tarps and driving rain. Ha! Nobody said this would be easy. I have taken out most windows one by one and completely cleaned them as well as the holes. looking fwd to getting them butyled in soon. A bit worried as a couple of the holes are obviously a bit oversized and I’m not sure I have the energy to glass new areas in to make them fit better. Not crazy bad. But obvious to me. as well wondering if anyone has used a line or two of good caulk on the inside on the edge of the fibreglass after butyl and before wood frame and screws? just as insurance? just a thought. What do I know? Rick

Thanks Linda. I realize if I went this route I would only have access to the storage from the front. Rick

I guess they can weigh alot but what if they are made from light materials.... ie. aluminum etc?

Alrighty. Answering my own question here sort of, I see there is jackknife bed hardware available. So I will look into just building a sofa bed on top of storage boxes. Rick

Thank you, Linda. I am referring to the jackknife style bed that would sit on top of the storage box.....

Thanks Derek. Doesn't matter to me what it's called. This will be custom and self fabricated anyway, so dimensions are whatever we want them to be. As to my question, I'm interested in finding out how it was installed and if something like this can be built taking advantage of all the storage space underneath. Rick

Hello there. I am currently rebuilding a gutted 21' 1986 Sunrader. It was the rear dinette model. Originally I planned on simply rebuilding the dinette, but after seeing odysseybernard 's double jackknife set up I am intrigued and nearly sold on this idea instead. My question however is how did you actually build it in? And did you keep all the storage area underneath and if so how do you access that storage underneath the two sofas? Thank you so much. Rick

Jay, I used some floor levelling compound. Make sure you find the one that remains pliable once dry... I used a DAP one. Also, something to think about during your rebuild you may want to consider natural materials as opposed to plastics and other. There is a lot of information out there about off gassing in small spaces. Not to mention where all of this material is going to end up once we are done with it. Rick

Damn. That looks text book. Wish I had this a couple weeks ago.... Rick