canadasunrader

Nice work. Thanks for sharing.

I bought my 1986 Sunrader and it was a 24 hour drive away. I had a friend who lived an hour away drive up and give me a look via facetime. You could do this with the seller if they can. Always nice to take a virtual walk around inside and out before taking the drive. As you know, once you all that way it is difficult to come home empty handed. That said, beyond the mechanics, the big surprises are always hidden behind the walls. If there have been leaks, how was the moisture dealt with? Perhaps seller can elaborate? If it was just covered up you will have to deal with mold and rot eventually...

Screams luxury.

Jay. This looks so good. How is all the wood attached at the front? Mine is still sitting unfinished. This looks like it may be an answer. Also.... did you say that you replaced your insert trim on the outside? Which width did you go with? I measured mine at 3/4" and so far it's hard to find. I am having a hell of a time getting some of the screws out. The entire front section of them will not budge. Looks like they have been sitting in water for 40 years. Most of the sides and back have come out. Did you just cover the ones that stripped with a little goop and moved on? Mine are so rusty I am reluctant to just leave them.... but I've tried everything to get them out and no way. And.... all good here. I finally got my inspection competed so I will be on the road soon. Rick

Ok. Thanks Linda/ Derek. Thought I would give it a shot before I continue down this road. Rick

I know there are a few threads of information regarding net weight of Toyota homes. My question is this: I am currently dealing with frustrating provincial inspection rules and regulations. A fancy garage I took my rig to a few weeks ago made a ridiculous to-do list before I can get passed. I've been spending time/money going through the list. Arggggh. In the meantime, I spoke with my insurance agent in anticipation of getting this all done, and she tells me that if the RV weighs more than 3501kg it is exempt from that inspection. She says they require an 'official' piece of paper or something from the manufacturer with regards to weight. I know that most of what I read here tells me that our Sunraders typically weigh around 6000 pounds, but can also get up into the 7000 range fully loaded. Is there something on paper that I can use? Or is this a fruitless quest? Thank you. Rick

Thank you! Is there a brief list of basic needs when it comes to house power? The battery is connected to the XX, which is then connected to the XX.. and so on.

Ok, I'll be more specific. Here's what I need to power: Various LED lights Stereo Fridge Diesel heater USB plug ins Plug ins to power computers, battery chargers I don't have running water on board. No need for pump. I will eventually add a solar panel or two, but coming later. For now, I would like to know what modern components are necessary to build a system. Battery, yes. Fuse box? Inverter? Converter? Charger?

Well, of course I want 'best', but that will probably come later. For now I looking for 'good.' I wasn't necessarily looking for models and makes, moreso was hoping to see what the various parts are required to buy to get going. Of course I realize it all begins with the battery, but where does it go from there?

I am beginning with an empty shell. I have read a lot of very informative threads here on how the electrical system works and what others have done. However, I am wondering if someone can give us newbies an updated basic outline of the modern parts needed to build a house system from scratch? A lot has changed in the electrical world in the past few years. Would love to hear what individual parts are needed to make a basic system. Thank you.

Yes, an impact wrench would have been good, but no way. As you can see, the floor has sagged down around the top of the shock. I went to the old reliable Canadian Tire where I found a pack of six nut bolt extractors on sale for 75% off. That and jacking up the floor did the trick. Finally got the nut/bolt out, but getting the new shock on and a bolt back on was equally fun. While it is satisfying work once over with, I am glad I don't do this every day for a living.

Thank you. I am installing the Monroe 34803 in the back. Basic, but recommended. I was asking about the coils because this is my first experience with shocks and I just wasn't exactly sure how they came off. Part of me was worried it was going to be like a jack in the box apon pulling the bolts off. But everything came off fine on the first one, and the replacement went in fine. On the second one the bottom bolt came off easy. It is the top bolt where the problem lies. It is tight up against the floor. The floor has dropped down a bit and won't allow a ratchet in there. The nut is rounded and everything I've tried so far has failed to get it to budge. Tried heating it up, banging it with a chisel etc etc. Also, it's hard to get at because the muffler is close beside it.

Hello again. re: SHOCKS And... apologies Jay for completely taking over your original thread here.... Can anyone please advise me if I need to take any special precautions, or do I need any special tools to remove the rear shocks on my 1986 Sunrader? There are coils on the outside of the old shocks on there now. Ok, pulled one off without a problem. But second one has a stripped top bolt pinched up tight to the bottom of the floor. Thank you. Rick

Yes, the front shocks are the Monroe 34953 Gas-Magnum Shock Absorber. And I just finished getting them on. All good. I need to get in better shape. And the steering damper is this one https://www.amazon.ca/Monroe-SC2914-Magnum-Steering-Damper/dp/B000C53XES I got the Damper on now. Tough to get that bolt out, but finally figured out a way.

I rode my bike across the city to one of the only open auto parts stores we have here. Showed them my old one and gave them the part number of the Bilstein. I'm naive, but I trusted the 'expert' behind the counter who gave me a bunch of options and explained how each works and doesn't for my application. I settled on the one I got after listening to him and weighing all the pros and cons. Not ideal, but will be fine for now. I just can't and won't spend $5K on all the various mechanical things I need to get this up and running for inspection. I have to pick and choose some battles.

Just FYI: Those Bilsteins ...https://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/14571/name/Bilstein-B6-4600-Heavy-Duty-Shock-Absorber-Toyota-Pickup-Front-24-184830 may be the perfect shocks for Sunraders, but up here in Canada they are special order and I was quoted $199. + tax for each today. While I realize safety and performance are paramount, budget is also right up there in concern. I went with another Monroe option that is less than half the cost and in the good-not-perfect category.

Thank you. With some trial and error and a bit of knuckle blood and swearing I removed the first front one. Looks like it is from the way way back times... I will forge on and at the very least get these two fronts done. Not sure, even with my jack and stands if I can get those back ones off. I'll try. We'll see. Rick

Hello again. I have an appt early next week to tackle a bunch of important stuff before my 1986 Sunrader can pass inspection. I am not a mechanic, but since I have a week I think I can at least attempt a couple of the easier things on the list. First off, shocks. Is it possible for a newbie like me to replace my shocks here in the driveway. I have a decent jack etc. I began in the back as it looks to be easier. Ha! Those bolts are 30 years on there. I sprayed them with blaster and then moved to the front. I took off one front wheel and am poking around to see if I can do this. The top bolt looks straight ahead, but the bottom one is not obvious. Seems to be some kind of double jeopardy.... Can anyone please advise? And I am happy to be told to stand down if I should not attempt this or other open heart surgeries this rig requires. Thanks. Rick

To each his own Linda. I don't want a shower. I may want a composting toilet at some point down the road, who knows? And I don't want running water. I am fine with bringing water with me. I don't need a water tank or water pump etc. And these are so much more than just "empty vans." The great thing about being out on the road in a vehicle like a Sunrader is you can do it your own way. It really doesn't have to make sense to anyone else.

Thanks Jay. Appreciate your encouragement and friendship. Will forge onward. I am going to leave the grey water tank for now as I plan to use it with a sink as a drain. I won't have any running water. No pump etc. Also, in the back, the grey water tank acts as a bit of a floor support, no? The black tank, being closer to the front, can be removed as far as I am concerned. And thanks, Linda. Yes, I thought the mechanics comments to be a little odd regarding the tank. Not sure what any of this has to do with a 'safety inspection.' It sounds to me like they just go around the vehicle searching for bits of excuses to ding somebody more money before they give a sticker. Rick

Thanks Jim. And in no way do I want to downplay a good mechanic's right to make a fair wage. They are worth their weight in gold for those who can afford them. I am fortunate that some friends turned us on to a great, and talented guy that works out of his house now and charges about one third that the big boys do, and he always goes the extra mile without being asked. It's just a shame that he is not licenced to do the inspection. Our chevy van side doors seized up completely on us a few years ago. I drilled a small hole into the pins and sprayed deep into them. Works like new. Anyone out there know how easy/hard it is to remove the black water tank if I need to go that far?

Thanks Linda. Yes, it has been an unexpected complicated process. I did attempt to take it to several local garages listed and licenced for inspection. Twice I got it there only to hear that they did not want to tackle it. Including the venerable Canadian Tire, that does most inspections in Canada. They claimed that I should take it to a place "that specializes in RVs." I finally landed on this place. They work on a lot of fleet vans and larger vehicles, so they were not afraid to tackle the Sunrader. And to be fair, they are excellent and professional to deal with. Problem is, they are quite picky and have identified [and failed] some pretty obscure things. For example, they want $200 to tighten the straps on the black water tank. And because the front doors are a little stiff they want $60 to grease and lube. My plan moving fwd is to get it out of there and then I will have my local guy do most of the major work - brakes, shocks, etc - and I will tackle all the piddly little things on the list myself. The truck heater is not producing heat, and the door are a bit stiff, and and and. The good news out of all of this is that we have a nice long list of items that a tech has found to be wanting. Good to know where we stand and what needs addressing. Better to know now than somewhere out on the road... Of course I don't like it. And it is expensive for me, but everyone knows entering the Sunrader world is not for the feint of heart.

Hello everybody. I could use some sage advice. And a few hail mary's.... My Sunrader 21' 1986 is just back from inspection. Ha! Failed on several accounts. Rear brakes are not good and need whatever rear brakes need. [I am not a mechanic and have never tackled brakes] All four shocks need replacing. Front doors are stiff. Do they simply need some grease? No heat coming from thermo in the cab. I see on the interwebs that this is common and an easy fix. A few other little things that I can attend to... Can I tackle rear brakes and shocks myself? Again, I have limited experience. The tony garage that I took my rig to is estimating $4,000 to do everything and pass inspection. Yikes!! Thank you. Rick

Apologies, Jay. Didn't see this til now. You have come a long way, baby! To quote whomever. Everything looks buttoned up nice and tight. And you are getting somewhere. How is everything mechanically?

Thanks Jim. This is extremely helpful. Rick