Gulfstream Greg

The images got lost in the server crash, presently there is a problem with the gallery. Tech support is looking into the issue as I type. No matter what when I get home tonight I will place them somewhere so they are available. Thanks Nolan Greg

You will not be able to find any 15 inch rims that were stock. Mine also has 15 inch rims so I am guessing the duals were a custom make. I still need a spare for the rear. If the gear ratio of the full floater is the same as your front end you might as well buy it. If your in California I think there is a place in Stockton that can make the wheels. You can also call around to some tire stores that deal with truck tires and maybe someone can point you in the right direction. Toyota never made a 15 inch dual rim. You definitely want the same size as the front. Greg

I think folks really enjoy reading about other folks trips. We have a "Trip Reports Forum". Do an entire story about the last 12 trips. Greg

Welcome Questions question questions, that's what its all about. Glad your here, there is a 1,000,000,000 question limit though. Do you take the same route every time? My wife and I hope to get a trip together travelling from CA out towards Wyoming, Utah etc some day. Once again welcome and don't ever feel like you have asked to many questions. Greg

I get about the same, 13 to 15 mpg. Overdrive may actually use more gas, maybe someone else can comment on that.

Futar RePost the files if you get time. They probably got lost in the server crash last month. Greg

A regular key works great and does not trip the lights and horn. My 2001 Mazda/Ford pickup will lock the doors and flash the lights and beep the horn if I use the remote. But if I lock the door before I close it it does not beep the horn. It also does not beep the horn when I unlock it with the remote. Our Saab though is a different story. It does beep for everything. And if you lock it with the remote you have to open it with the remote. Opening with the key after remote lock will set off the alarm.

The Ham community is reacting in both directions. I know some who think it should have happened along time ago and others that feel it should still be a requirement. I know two who both are advanced ticket holders, one loves the code and practices it regularaly, the other learned it to get his license but has absolutely no use for code and will never touch a code key. I started learning code 30 years ago but never really got it down. I for one am glad its not required anymore. Maybe now I will advance my licence.

A tarp Several ropes or a rope and smaller line Bug repellent Off bug repellent lanterns fire starter logs (some cheap ones from Safeway 98 cents) bicycle pump brake fluid some extra metric bolts and nuts xtra gas cap vino (couple bottles xtra) plastic grocery bags large garbage bags grill for the campfire fold up chairs jumper cables xtra flashlight batteries more than one flash light service manual xtra fan belts fire extinguisher matches butane lighter wand xtra toilet paper paper towels rags heavy duty latex gloves regular gloves fold up shovel some different size hose clamps butane powered soldering iron and rosin core solder frs gmrs walkie talkies (Note GMRS requires a license) rain gear 5 gallon bucket hose If you take a dog - hydrogen peroxide and baking soda in case there is a skunk meeting. Emergency drinking water road flares wd-40 or similar lube broom dart board Give me time I will think of more

The spare would be centered by the chain so my guess is you are probably right. That chain must swing around and make some noise.

Campingworld.com has a spare tire carrier actually two that mount to the rear square bumper we all have. Make sure of course that your bumper is well attached before mounting. http://www.campingworld.com/search/index.c...ords=spare+tire Greg

Try uploading it to the gallery then make a link back here. Greg

Hi Dankine My wheel base is aprox. 121 inches or 10 foot 1 inch. The length of the rig looks like it should be 18 feet + or -. I have a rear extended bumper but if I imagine where the bumper should be the bumper to bumper is roughly 18 feet. Here is a sunrader brochure giving some coach specs for 1986. Its actually in the gallery under the files and manuals section. http://toyotamotorhomes.com/forum2/uploads...0_48_646519.pdf

Does that gas cap have a vent? I was under the impression there is no vent and that the system is pressurized. I may very well be wrong but I think you should hear a woosh (pressure escaping) when you take off the cap. I am comparing this to my rig which has a 22r fuel injected turbo engine. When I remove the cap the tank is under positive pressure. Should be the same though for V6 rigs, fuel pump in the tank etc. So my big question is if I get a woosh from my tank escaping positive pressure when I remove the cap is there something wrong with my system. We had a tank fuel pump go bad in our SAAB and when climbing hills it would miss like it was running out of gas.

I think that's great. I have yet to sit down and start learning code. Did about 30 yrs ago so maybe some will come back. The Tech of course does not need code but to go for the general code is required. That's Morse code for those who have no idea what we are talking about. The FCC has been kicking the idea around of dropping the code requirement but has not done so yet. There is of course a big debate about the code requirement, some say yes and some say no. Most countries have dropped the requirement. I think what I have to do is buy a radio I can not use until I get the general ticket then I will be more motivated. Keep us posted on the progress. 73's Greg

That air bag looks like its going sideways, definitly not right. JCWhittney sold a air bag kit specificly for the toyota mini motorhomes. I can not find it in the catalog but a phone call might do wonders. Looking at your bag spells "replace it". The 6300 converters are junk. Upgrade the unit to a new electronic version. DO NOT run 12 volt dc electronic stuff on 12 volts when plugged into shore power, the original 6300 can blow stuff up because of the voltage problems and ac voltage that also comes thru the 12volt dc side. Here is another post on the same subject. http://toyotamotorhomes.com/forum2/index.p...344&hl=6300 And another http://toyotamotorhomes.com/forum2/index.php?showtopic=89

I have heard you can buy an eraser thing ama bob that goes in a drill to help remove the old ones. New stripes are available just do a google srarch for "rv stripes". Might even be info there on how to remove the old ones.

I am going to be putting together a pet section on the main site and will add your litter mix in there! Greg

There are some descriptions and shematics in the gallery, here are direct links http://toyotamotorhomes.com/forum2/uploads...50_56_24605.pdf http://toyotamotorhomes.com/forum2/uploads...50_56_44811.pdf http://toyotamotorhomes.com/forum2/uploads...50_56_13758.pdf This last link (below) is for the direct upgrade replacement for the 6300 series. I put one in as my 6300 voltage was all over the place and the charger killed my battery. The 6300 also puts a lot of ac voltage into the dc side due to its design and that killed some 12 volt dc electronic gear. Also the 6300 battery charger is a piece of ancient junk, the new 7300ru has a much better charger. I bought my 7300ru at www.campingworld.com Its really a nice unit and easy to replace. Its also rated at 55amps. http://toyotamotorhomes.com/forum2/uploads...0_56_115938.pdf

Hi Nolan I am sorry, I think I confused it. I saw the post in the tech forum, where I was talking about is the gallery where photos and documents can be uploaded to. The link will be up at the top right in the area just below the web site forums logo. I thought that if uploaded there it will be easier to find in the future for folks. Its such a great piece (set) of information. Which makes me think that perhaps I should create a gallery spot just for axle stuff. Greg

Something must have gone wrong as I can not find them. If you made an album I think there is a selection to allow all to view it. Been awhile since I made an album. Thanks Nolan Greg

A 4.3 lit would be sweet. You should see if you can dig up any info about such a swap and post it. My guess is you would want to also use the gm transmission so that the engine trans and computer all talk to each other.

Your welcome Sunraders are supposed to be a bit more aerodynamic so maybe they slice thru the wind better and if thats so they might need less horse power than some of the other rigs. Bottom line though coach manufacturer really does not matter, they are all Toyotas and they all have to get up a hill. The bigger the coach and the amount of cargo including passengers is a factor when deciding if you need V6 or 22re. If you live and mostly travel on flat terrain a 22re might just do fine. Just remember no matter even if its a V6 its not going to climb a hill like a V8.

eljefe Your reply contained only the quote, no message.

I always suggest for folks to find a V6 in the larger rigs as they have more horsepower and a better transmission. The turbo 22r's (22rte) are really rare, almost non existent in the motorhomes. So that basically leaves you with four choices, the V6, 22re (fuel injected), 22r carbureted and the 20r (carbureted early years). Many are very happy with the smaller motors and just take their time when climbing mountains. Even the V6 and my turbo are not going to blast you up a mountain and even a lot of hills will force you down drastically in speed. If you are ever considering towing a trailer a shorter rig with a V6 is the best option. TurboBob is doing the Lexas conversions but I have not seen or read about the final product and I do not know if this was V6 to Lexus or 22RE to Lexus. If it all works smoothly it sounds like a really good option except maybe the extra HP into the transmission. In California I had considered buying a Sunrader 18 footer and converting it to a larger motor so I called the State Smog Board. Everything from the donor vehicle such as computer, transmission (the transmission talks to the computer), any smog equipment and dash lights would also have to be incorporated into the swap. I did not give up on the idea it was that I was able to buy our rig with a Toyota factory turbo. I mention factory turbo because in California adding a turbo to a non turbo engine will have a lot of details to work out with being smog legal. Personally if I was to upgrade to a turbo on a non turbo engine I would find a same year turbo truck and swap out everything then replace the turbo with a t3-t4 hybrid. I will eventually replace the stock turbo with a t3-t4 hybrid as mine is nearing its life line. I should back up a step and give some history of the oem turbo. They have some issues with heat. They tend to burn a hole thru the housing near the waste gate. They are slow to spin up. The factory exhaust is considered to have been designed to small. Its a $$$$ replacement to upgrade not to mention the modifications but I know of several who have done it and it is worth the effort. Anyhow back to engine swaps. Besides the Lexus I know there have been other engines used. I do not know the model number but many have swapped in an in-line toyota 6 cylinder. Here is a note regarding the turbo compared to the V6 and 22re. At high altitude the V6 and 22re will produce superior horsepower when the throttle is cracked open, such as from a stop. The reason for that is the turbo engine is far lower in compression than a standard engine and will produce substantially less horsepower at high altitudes (even low altitudes) until the turbo spins up and starts producing some boost. Another reason for the t3-t4 upgrade. Every engine is degraded in horsepower at a higher altitude but the turbo even more so because of the lower compression. Where the turbo does show its talents is on the open road and climbing steep grades. I have an advantage that my rig is a 4x4 with a set of lower gears. I can actually start off in the lower gears and shift the transfer case back into regular range while moving. Here is another note worth contemplating. The factory turbo pickup trucks use the V6 transmissions and V6 drive trains such as rear ends. The rear ends are a Moog point in the motorhome as you should have the full floating axle. The beefier transmission is a consideration because what it gives you is a locking torque converter. The locking converter produces far less heat than the 22re non locking ones. The big issue of using overdrive is even more of an issue if you boost your horsepower and feel you can now use OD with a non locking converter. A transmission swap might be a bonus if you swap out an engine to a larger HP. As an example I have found that if my transmission is running hot and I am in a situation where I can switch into OD such as on the freeway I can actually watch the temp drop, I mean you can visually watch the needle drop. Hope all that made sense, basically that's why I always suggest to find a V6. Its not just a bigger motor, its also a bigger transmission with a locking converter. Also as a side note turbos need premium gas only, no regular ever.