Gulfstream Greg

@ Vanman Silent Running http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silent_Running http://youtu.be/TckJBvl_uT0

Welded? There is an actual way to weld plastic using a small pencil heat gun. Basically with the heat gun you melt the item you need to weld together while melting a stick of the same material into the crack or seam. Once cooled you can figure out the rest. Here is a video on the process http://youtu.be/If1TKvhokxw Also do a search on eBay for plastic welder for many kits.

Thanks everyone who showed their face! Had a great time, see you all at the Big Sur event in April and again in Felton next year!!

See ya all there sometime Friday.

If you have the old style converter it has a relay that switches between shore and battery power. So if you have no power anywhere with shore or battery pwr you might take a look at that relay. Unfortunately its inside the converter so you will have to open it up to access the relay. You should invest in a multi tester (cheap from Radio Shack or eBay) it will save you hours of guess work.

I would think they could change those days as this is their off season

Hold down the light pilot knob for a long period of time ( DON'T PRESS THE PIEZO LIGHT BUTTON) then go out to the exhaust vent, stick your noise down there and give it a sniff. You should be able to smell gas at that point. No gas smell - gas problem, gas smell - piezo problem. Also the chance both are a problem. The sail switch is a safety device. It activates when the circulation fan is running and tells the gas valve that it can release gas to the main burner. When you make a call for heat the fan first turns on activating the sail swith then a few seconds later the gas valve opens to the main burner and the pilot lights it up. In reverse when the call for heat ends the the gas to the main burner turns off but the fan continues to run to cool down the combustion chamber. You should also have a thermocoupler for the pilot. If the thermocoupler is bad the pilot will not stay lit. The thermocoupler also signals the valve that the pilot is lit and that the valve can supply gas to the main burner when heat is called for. The electronic start heaters all work the same except that the electronics generate the piezo spark and the piezo spark wire also acts as the thermocoupler telling the gas valve that there is pilot flame. The electronic furnaces light the pilot everytime there is a call for heat. Then the pilot extinguishes at the end of the call for heat. The non electronic pilots stay lit until you tun them off via the valve knob. Also have you followed the gas line to make sure there is not a on/off valve somewhere for that line. I also recommend getting a carbon monoxide (CO) detector for your RV's. Heaters can easily transfer CO into the RV if there are cracks in the heating chambers. Without a CO detector you'll just be dead if there is a CO problem.

If the RV park has a dump station we always dump when we are leaving even if moving on to a new location. You never know when your next chance will be to get rid of that stuff. We also make sure at the end of a trip we dump so that the tanks are empty for the next trip. Plus if you let it sit in there for too long it will really start to stink no matter how much deodorizer you pour in. We don't have a freezing problem here so that's not a concern.

Yup, that's me!

Didn't someone here on the board install a small window model in their closet or something? As far as the drag and making the vehicle top heavy I don't think that's a problem. They don't weigh enough to tip the scales on being top heavy. If you really think an AC unit contributes to the top heavy effect then you should consider beefing up your suspension. Drag might also be a moog point as the air deflected up and over the front of the coach might completely miss the AC unit at speed. Guess (excuse the pun) that it's time for the wind tunnel.

Our step seems to be mounted to far in and seems awkward when using it. So all I really have to say is get it out towards the edge as far as you can. Any how we don't even use ours. Instead we have an aluminum one from camping world. They are pricey around $80 but very stable and big.

Paint adds a protective layer for corrosion resistance. Just because you can't see the corrosion does not mean its not there. Micro pinholes can be created that siphon water to the inside. The aircraft industry is big on corrosion avoidance and cures. If the skin has been left open to the elements then I think it should be treated before being painted.

The standard recommendation was originally conceived from/by 4cyl owners that assumed the V6 was the same animal as far as the trans is concerned. It was born from trans over heating issues and the fact that the 4cyl (even the FI engine) was under powered to run in OD with a grossly over weight coach and cargo strapped to its back. The altitude switch falls into the same arena. Even an empty 4cyl fi engine pickup at altitude is under powered and cannot support OD properly. The altitude switch was engineered in for a reason. Maybe fuel mileage, emissions, engine damage or all of the above. Urban myth has it that lugging an engine is one of the worst things as far as prematurely wearing out the cyl walls, cam and crank of an engine. Wonder if the myth busters ever covered that one? Maybe Toyota knows more than we think we do.

I agree but only as far as the 4cyl is concerned. The V6 and Turbo 4cyl all use a trans with a locking torque converter, the standard 4cyl carb and FI do not. The constant slipping in the 4cyl converters is what generates the heat. OD just makes it worse. Also I thought that I read somewhere the altitude sensor was adjustable.

I did not read through all the posts but as I understand the construction of RV wall, everything is a sandwich construction. 1/4 inch luan on both sides with the framing and foam insulation in the center. Everything is assembled on a flat table. The luan is glued to the framing and foam and pressure is applied for many hours until set. This creates a solid rigid structure. A template (guessing here) is laid over the assembled wall and the openings are cut out. The gluing is what creates the strength of the wall and keeps things real light in weight. The floor and ceiling are built the same way then all is assembled. Any how, just my input.

That's great, it will be good to see you all!

Its on again! The 2013 Indian Summer Rally in Felton California at Smithwood Rv Park. http://www.smithwoodsrvpark.com/index.htm Just tell them your with the toyota group and the days

OK good observation and I agree so I reduced the reply number from 100 to 15.

OK thanks all. That sounds like a much cheaper option. Whats the chance that this can be done with out pulling the starter out?

The solenoid in my starter is on the fritz. It's acted up in the past but rarely. Recently though on our last trip to big sur twice it refused to engage until I crawled under the rig and rapped on the starter with a heavy tool. Guess it loosened up the solenoid. The symptoms are that there is just a click but the starter does not spin up. But after giving the starter a couple of hard knocks it will spin up. Anyone else have or had this problem. I do know someone else that has had the problem. Maybe the solenoid is serviceable?? I am not going to service it, just replace it but might consider keeping it as a spare instead of turning it back in for the core charge.

Had XM (Sirus/XM) in my SAAB for awhile but at $17 a month it was not worth it for me. So I cancelled it and now they want me to sign back up for half price. The antenna has to be in clear view of the sky at all times or else you will get drop outs. Also because I live in the Santa Cruz mountains with 2000 foot ridges all around it dropped out all the time. If your radio is sat ready all you need is an antenna and subscription. Do the trial first while you see if it works OK and is what you want. They claim a ton of channels but reality is only a few are going to be of interest to you.

The Wilson Trucker antenna works really well. http://www.wilsonelectronics.com/store/display/34/51/rv-trucker-roof-mount-antennas I have a Verizon usb727 stick that has an antenna connection. So with an adapter I can connect my laptop to the antenna. Bought it on ebay. You can just activate it for a month for $50 when you go on a trip. No contract needed. Wilson also makes mobile repeater systems if your phone does not have an antenna jack. http://www.wilsonelectronics.com/store/index/category/38/wireless

I kinda skimmed through all the posts so this may have already been suggested. http://www.wilsonelectronics.com/ has several products that can help.

5th gear in the toyotas is overdrive while in 4th gear.

OH ya forgot to mention, Steve I put up a modified logo of the "at the speed of parked" because during my replacing all the lost images the one you did got over written. If you want to change it out to yours go ahead.