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About SnowRader86

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1986 Nissan Sunrader 18' w/ 3.0 V6.
    Purchased Sept. 2014
    74,644 miles as of Oct. 1, 2014
  • Location
    Portland, OR
  1. Hi there. Just got one light in on my 86 Sunrader. I got the Bargman triple LED on a horizontal mount. http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/Bargman-47-84-104-Led-Taillight-No.-84-Recessed-Triple-Long-Horizontal-Mount-Red-Backup-Amber-Black-18-x-7-x-5.-50/35531874 Then got a frame for them cut with specific cut out dimensions Went with black Plexi from Tap Plastics. I called in the dimensions and they had them ready the next day. I'm pretty stoked with the results.
  2. That last post wasn't meant to be demanding. Post = posting Thanks Pictures in the AM.
  3. Awesome! Thanks for another great post Corbin. My mistake. Thank you jdfrost64! That pointer got me starting this morning. I have the area all cleaned up in a rectangular shape around the zone best I could to the edges, but there is rot to and under the edge. So Im thinking scrape under the lip of fiberglass on the edge best I can and then epoxy inject fill that space. The other option is getting a piece of plywood to actually slide under that lip. BUT...I keep on toying with the idea to just seal all of the foam board with epoxy, along with under the lip, then crisscross fiberglass fabric until the void is filled. Like a lasagna What do you think of that.? First I need to get a support under it and level it out because I noticed along the very rear of coach metal floor support, the foam is slightly dropping and is cracking along it. Any suggestions on attaching blocks to the rear support propane support bracket to reinforce underneath? I can make the block, but cant figure out how to attach it to the two bolts without going through the floor. Thanks again everyone for reading and post your knowledge. The soon to be, Snowrader
  4. Got the water heater out thanks to Corbin. Thank you for the suggestion. And the floor is looking pretty bad. It's all soft down to the under sheet. Is it metal? Maybe aluminum? I'm not sure how this section is structurally supported. Corbin - did you take yours to the bottom replacing foam board as well? Thinking of building up marine plywood fiberglassed and stacked to fill the gap in between the propane bracket and the floor. That would make me feel better. Well. Here it is. Hopefully I can make it as good or better than is was.
  5. Thanks for all the info Corbin. I think my floor is definitely at the point where cutting out the bad piece is a probability. I'm worried about fitting in and securing the new piece structurally. Did you just fiberglass over the top of the new piece?
  6. One more thing. I tried and tried to get the propane connection off the water heater but couldn't Any tips? I'm about to cut it. I figure it's easy to fix with new fittings.
  7. Okay. End of the day. Pretty good start. Next get the appliances out and get the floor cleaned and prepped for resin I'll probably use some fiberglass fabric in some especially compromised areas. I'm going to hit as much of the floor as I can get at. Then I'll do the whole back in one piece of 1/2" marine plywood. What do you all think about doing some kind of insulated vapor barrier? Also, the storage box on the drivers side sits below the floor making the need for a cut out. What do you all think about getting a different box that would just sit on the solid new floor instead of making a cutout in the new floor. This also gives me the opportunity to make a wrap around dinette if I'd like. Who here has the wrap around and do you like it? I noticed the 18'er back widow comes up at an angle making that back seat on the wrap around not all that comfortable. Opinions??
  8. Also. The floor is surprisingly sturdy. Same with the upper bunk and I'm 185lb. It was probably sitting on an angle and all the water ended up in the back corner. Looks original. TheC side fiberglass comes down and over the top layer a few inches. I'm feeling pretty silly for not checking this out first. I love a good project and I'm going to end up rebuilding the rear dinette floor up. I could have done that with any old junker though. Hopefully the truck engine and chassis are as good as advertised. Here is a picture of the yucky rotted floor. Down to the foam board. And another good picture of my finished Fantastic Fan. This thing sure pushes some air. Wiring was easy. Simply figured out which 110v wire it was, and switched the hot over to a 12v.
  9. Hi Linda, Thanks for the reply. I had read good reviews about PC. But you never know. What type of resin? Fiberglass epoxy? Should I layer in souls glass strips?
  10. I just recently purchased my 86' Nissan Sunrader 18' and had a little surprise when I started digging around. The floor feels solid and all appliances worked so I didn't really think to check when I got it, but after opening up the seats in back, noticed that there is a patch of wood around the water heater that has started to decay. A lot of the plumbing has been redone, so I'd imagine there was a problem that was fixed, but maybe to late. First, I am going to remove the water heater because I have plans of installing a tankless and so I can access the whole area. Then I am going to use a wood rot repair epoxy called PC Rot Terminator. It is supposed to be a structural wood repair curing harder than wood. Then I am going to lay new plywood down over that area, and over the main floor. A couple of questions for people who have laid down play wood to stiffen up the floor of a Sunrader: Did you screw it down or glue it down or both? Did you us any floor dampener like the foam under hardwood floors? Did you do it all in one piece? I see being able to easily do it in three pieces and only having to take off a couple cabinet doors. Thanks I'll include pictures of the rot and fix later.
  11. Hello, Im new to the forum and new to Sunrader ownership. I figured I would introduce you to my new Sunrader along with some of my current upgrades, fixes and surprises. I picked up a Nissan Sunrader 18' with the 3.0 V6. 74,600 miles with a fresh timing belt, waterpump, cam seals, and other tune up items. All in all it is very clean, but after digging into it found where it is starting to show its age. My goal is to make it a mountain machine, and alot of my mountain time is in the snow. So I need to make this rig snow ready and be able to pack friends and gear safely up to the mountain. I have a pretty big todo list, right off the bat. Reseal all windows with butyl tape and polyurethane sealant. (There were small leaks in two obvious places) New Fantastic Fan with weather hood in main coach and new vent cover in bathroom both resealed with butyl and poly. Remove rack and vents then refasten with new sealant in screw holes and around brackets New LED clearance lights and New Bargman triple LED tail lights with custom plexi frame from TAP plastics. Upgrade suspension and snow tires And then there is the floor....... So, when checking it out, the floor seemed pretty solid, and I crawled under it to see if there was any rust or decay. But what I didnt do, is take apart the back seats and look inside. After getting it home and starting to dig around I found that the driver side was good and solid, but the passenger side had pretty significant water damage and wood rot under the water heater (Surprise)!. All of the plumbing and fittings had been redone with new fittings but it looks like the damage has been done. Everywhere else on the rig is so solid, it really was a surprise. Aside from a total rebuild (which I would love to do sometime down the road, in the summertime) I'm thinking that my best option is to use PC ROT Terminator. It is a structural epoxy for decaying wood. It supposedly absorbs into all of the cracks and crevices of the rotted wood and then cures stronger than wood. I think I'm going to turn the floor repair into a separate thread, if there isn't one already. Anyway, lots to talk about but I'll try to split up topics and find relating threads previously created. Thanks for reading about my new micro home. I am going back and forth with feeling okay about how much money I spent on it after finding out about the wood rot. What do you experts think after what I've told you? I paid $8700 and that was after a pretty solid haggle.
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