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Everything posted by jetalkington

  1. Looks really great Jay. I like the indirect lighting and the little shelf. The natural wood is a good look. The state allowed us to open back up so I am back to 13 & 14 hour days. So, it looks like fall before I get much more done, unless I squeeze in a little here and there.
  2. Probably low point drains. Go inside and find the spot where they are draining from and see if there is a valve on them to shut them off. Mine had a small brass valve on them. Close the valve. They are used when you winterize the camper to make sure all the water is out of the lines. I took mine out, because I blow out my line with air and then pump RV antifreeze in.
  3. I think the black water tanks can depend upon what has happened to them in the life of the Sunrader. I have read were they were put in from the top. Which if true would mean cutting and fabricate a new holder. Mine has been taken out at some point. I have two bars across the bottom. It looks to me I unbolt them and it will come out. Your would likely be different. Best for someone else to chime in that has seen it done
  4. Sorry to hear of your issues Rick. I hope you get them worked out in time for summer fun. I worked on vehicles for years and our minimum charge was 30 minutes. Guys around here are earning upwards of $80-$100 an hour. That would be $40-50 dollars to do simple greasing. It is getting crazy. Fortunately that kind of stuff is simple with a can of white lithium grease. Good luck. I know you didn't need any more on your plate. Your right buying a Sunrader is not for the feint of heart.
  5. I would keep the test light connected to ground and test each wire coming from the floor. Do them one at a time. Turn on your turn signal and find the wire that flashes the test light like a turn signal. Then connect it to the wire coming from the amber section of your new light. Then do each wire testing as you go. Brake light have some one step on the brake pedal and find the wire that lights up. Connect each wire immediately to the light before moving on or tape and label them so you do not get confused. Do the same with the reverse. Set the emergency brake and put the Sunrader in reverse
  6. I think I screwed up and caused my own problem on the leaks. I had taken the plate off the inside of the ac to put some furring strips on the ceiling. It is a plate with all the electrical and duct in it. I plan to make a change so I did not put it on when I brought my Sunrader home. Since the plate has long screws to it I am pretty sure it sandwiches the roof between the roof mounted and the inside controls/ducts. This would squeeze the gasket and create the seal. I plan to put it back today. It is still raining here so I will know. It looks like the state is going to let me open around
  7. Got my Sunrader out in the sunlight today. First time since October. Front cab is all painted. Decals when the paint fully cures. Likely first week of June. Now that it is at my house it will a lot easier to get some hours in on it. Raining so I see a couple spots leaking around two fixtures. I plan to get it cleaned out and take a garden hose to it to make sure before I start furring out the side walls.
  8. Yeah, it started raining here. I got my Sunrader out of my workshop today and with the rain I found two small leaks. So I am tracking them down.
  9. Chances are if you have a faint light you have a bad ground. On mine I had to follow the wires through the floor under my vehicle and found several crimp connectors that were severely corroded and had to be replaced. Don't worry about that relay at this point. If your lights were working properly before they should work now. Once you get everything working you can replace the relay. Electrical can be tricky but with a basic understanding it is very straight forward on 12v. You have a ground, a load, a switch and a power source. What electricity has to have is a path. The path to groun
  10. Your white wire is the ground. Look on the rear of your Sunrader and match up the wires to the existing lights. The new ones can be in a different order than your existing ones. You shouldn't need a ground terminal. Tie all the existing grounds, looks to be two, to the one coming from the main harness. In your picture it is the white one and it looks like it goes to a black one. You don't need that short wire going to the harness ground. Try to tie them together in a single connector, if you can. I used heat shrink connectors on all my connectors. You should have ground, Turn signal,
  11. I glued 3/4 wood strips to the ceiling and then used trim screws to hold the ceiling "panel" If you do this then you can remove it. Short dry wall screws would work also. This is what I am leaning on but I am just getting started on my inside. I am concerned about leaks around those windows as well. What I am working on is trimming out the windows with 17 mm- 3/4 wood strips about 6-7 mm away from the gasket/seal. I want to create a shadow box effect with room to work on the seal, if need be. I have already painted the fiberglass black around the windows. I am planning to paint the wood
  12. You seem pretty handy with the wood. I have been looking at Pole wrap. I used in an egg camper I remodeled. It had a curved ceiling front and rear and I didn't want to put back carpet. So I used pole wrap in reverse and screwed it to blocks I glued to the ceiling. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pole-Wrap-96-in-x-16-in-Oak-Basement-Column-Cover-85168/100312481?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-100395916-_-100312481-_-N You can see it in the back of this picture in the center of the ceiling. It takes shapes pretty well. This trailer was a total gut job. The wrap is oak strips like an old
  13. Mine is white and went all the way around the outside of my side panels. Like yours but along the top also. My panels are rotted at the bottom so I have make more. I don't know if I can get away with out the trim or not. I think at the top it would help cover the joint as I think that is going to be a pain to get a good looking seam with out it. And as others have said that plastic will stop squeaks from wood on wood. I just noticed that your panel is upside down in the picture. So, mine is like yours but white.
  14. You could glue it with thickened epoxy or loctite Power grab ultimate
  15. You have inspired me to try. For $33 I would love keyless entry. What brand did you buy? Does it seem "well made" . I have all my panels off right now and this would be a perfect time to add it in.
  16. Got around to replacing the leaking pinion seal today. Got the truck all cleaned, sanded, and every spot fixed. Took the windshield out due to rust around it. The problem with rust around a windshield you never know how bad it is. I lose my body shop space next week due to this virus. I own a park concession in Illinois and we have been told we may not get open this summer. Ridiculous. Anyway, with no income I can't keep paying rent on a building when I can do it outside now. So, I pushed getting all the truck body work done so I can paint it while it is indoors. Looking good. Pai
  17. Ok, I got curious. I watched the video, which was interesting. Now I know how this this works. So, I went to my tank and took out the gauge. It is like the one in the video. So, it works on the magnetism. Good to know that I can just pop it out and replace it. I am repainting my tank. It was a mess. So, now I can take the gauge out and clean it and reinstall it.
  18. Thanks for this. This helps me a lot in going forward on my tank monitoring.
  19. I have the horizontal mounted also. Mine has a terminal on the gauge. See the picture I posted. There was a wire that ran from that terminal to my stove hood that indicated LPG level. It seemed accurate. I plan to reconnect it when I get my rebuild done. Look on yours to see if you have the terminal. My plan is to use see level sensors and they tell me they are compatible with this tank and sensor. Others probably have a better working knowledge of these, as this is my first mounted tank.
  20. You don't say what king of tank you have. Is it horizontal mounted or is a portable? Mine is mounted and has a sensor built into the tank that goes to a monitor inside my Sunrader. If that's the case you may have the same thing and a broken wire.
  21. Ric; I had to get some help with my windows. We taped them in place and saw that the opening was to big on one side and to small on another. It looked like someone had them out and could not get them back in so they trimmed and adjusted the opening to make it easier. On one side the seal gripped the fiberglass by less than a couple mm and on the other it bowed the seal out and would not let it seat. It was a mess. I think we might of even had them out a third time, not two. I bought the tool for the bead and it helped a lot. We ended up trimming one side a little bigger and then
  22. You guys must not be married. I am normally working 12 hour days this time of year. Since I am not, my wife has an ancient honey dew list that I am working on. I just finished tearing out a deck and filling the hole with 22,000 lbs of gravel. I am grateful she is still working part time or I would never get time to work on my Sunrader. Ric yours is looking good. I like the wood wrap on the rear ceiling curve. Is that luan mahogany or a thin plywood? I have been thinking of using pole wrap but I like that better. Did you have fun putting in the front windows. I had to do mine
  23. I went over to my Sunrader, at the shop. I climbed on and shook my ladder. I am an average size guy. I can say that ladder is going no where. I did use the collapsible rivets. I am good and plan to leave my rivets in. I am moving on to getting my ceiling and side wall supports in. I want to get it insulated soon.
  24. I ended up buying these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X8Z4K4Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The bottom ones have to be a lot longer than the top ones. Now I am getting paranoid. It is just the biggest screw I could get in there was a #10 with out drilling out the ladder. That didn't seem all that strong either. 1/4-20 would require drilling the ladder bracket and thinning out the material along the edge. The washer on the inside is a requirement, in my opinion. It does add a lot of strength. My rivets are tight in the hole and for
  25. Do you really think those rivets won't hold? There are 16 of them. Fiberglass is tough. I think the key is to be sure they are long enough and the hole is the right size.
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