Recent Install Of 3Ts Firestone Air Rides

[Totem]

So, as promised I recently installed some new 3Ts version of firestone air bags and decided to write a quick write up.

The 3Ts company basically takes the air ride firestones and creates a custom bracket for Toyota framed Rvs.

The hardest part of this job for me was getting my RV up; I dont have a pole barn or garage tall enough to do it so I had to do it in a field, not on pavement.

• I jacked it up on cinder-blocks and jackstands after loosening the lugs.
• I removed the wheels including front (so i could do an outer wheel rotation while in there.)
• I made sure to jack up the frame only so the axle basically hung.
• I removed the old 3Ts... this was not too bad at all, I cut the hoses and ran all new lines (included in the kit)
• The brackets are offset but ambidextrous so i had to move them to look like the setup that I had removed on right and left.
• Once i had the brackets looking identicle to the old ones i started to install them
• they are shipped completely deflated.
• Once I had them mounted in the top perch i hit them with air to maybe 10 lbs and they extended into place.
• I then installed the wheels and let the rig down off of the jacks.
• the airbags were at a funny angle so i had to deflate adjust jack it up and lower it until they looked correctly seated.
• once looking good I put the final bolts through and clamped them onto the spring and torqued them down.
• finally i tack welded them.

I can say this, the new bags aired up at 97 lbs. (very close to the limit) are AMAZING. i used to think that it was wise to keep them around 65 but learned (at least in my case) that the higher pressure the more arch is put into the spring and the more travel the axle has before the bumpstops hit on the frame. The RV is so darned quiet now its scary, especially after having soundproofed her with the usual methods of closing all doors cupboards, having gorilla glued screws in doors, put burner grates in drawers, etc.

These bags took me 2 days to do. This is because I struggled to get the RV jacked up enough to get the wheels off in a wet field which in hindsite was probably dangerous. I would say had I had a proper floor i could have done it in a day. GREAT improvement from my leaky slimed old bags that no longer held air. Slime kept the old bags alive for 3 years since i bought her but now that I have leakless bags i wish i would have done it long ago!

[Bob C]

I also installed a set of 3-t's bags. My Escaper did not have any airbags when I bought it so I didn't have anything to remove to start the installation. I have a nice level paved driveway, hydraulic floor jacks, jack stands, and air powered tools to make my job much easier. It took me under two hours to get the bags installed. It did however take me an hour to get the nerve to start the job.

I run my airbags at 90 psi because that is the preset pressure on the compressor that is mounted next to the garage door. While on the road, I use a portable 12 volt compressor to top off the bags every day. My air bags loose about 5 psi in 24 hours and I have not been able to stop the leakage. I have checked where the bags attach to the hoses and at the inflating point. I can't find the leak. I have replaced the valve cores and checked every connection with a soap mixture.

While the RV is parked, I always use frame jacks under the rear frame to keep the bags from getting smashed and to keep the springs arced up. Before I remove the jacks, I partly inflate the bags and top them off after removing RV is plugged in. The RV is in storage right now at the county fairgrounds and the jacks are under it for the winter.

When I installed the airbags, it took a couple of hundred miles of driving for the springs to loosen up. I think that the bushings and spring shackles were pretty much seized up from not moving. I rides better now.

[Totem]

When I talked on the phone to the techs at 3Ts they warned me that if the bags were not aligned within 1/8th of an inch of tolerance all around they would rub funny and air would leak through the wear in the bag itself. Turns out thats how my originals from the original install failed. One was holding air pretty decently even still, I slimed it anyway. the one that failed rubbed on itself too much as it had not been aligned properly after the 1 ton axle replacement by my mech. when it was filled to 60 psi (the old failed one) i soap sprayed it and saw microscopic sized bubbles all around the rub area almost like a white foam. it was then that i made the decision to replace them.

[bufbooth]

Totem, are you sure they are ambidextrous?

My Toyota had the 3Ts installed but never looked right (they were on an angle). When I went to replace my shocks I realized that

the $&$* shop that installed the originally took a hammer and drove the shock into the base of the 3T bracket, damaging the shock.

After staring at them for about 30 minutes I realized they were on the wrong side. I switch them and the angle was gone and

I had space between the shock and the 3T bracket. Since mine are a few years older, maybe they were not ambidextrous. Dennis...

[Totem]

Not sure who did yours but that doesn't sound like a 3Ts bag. I know mine were 3Ts because the paperwork was in the glovebox and a sticker was on the back of my Rv.

The 3Ts airbag bracket is offset and amidextrous; there is a definate right and left airbag though. What i mean by that is that the bracket can go on either side of the bag but the bag base is offset. I will take some pictures to show what i mean by this when i get home. Basically the airbag should be offset outside of the frame on each side but its bracket may either be attached after the axle or before it depending on where your perches were welded. Properly installed 3Ts perches are frame welded.

Since i had perches and a full install done already all i had to do was get their replacement parts kit which consists of everything except the perches.