Jump to content

Just purchased 1987 Minicrusier


kblake

Recommended Posts

Obviously, change Engine oil and Filter. Since you don't know how long it has been in there, change the Antifreeze. Some folks really like the red Toyota OEM stuff, BTW. The Automatic Transmissions lead a Hard Life in these things so I would at least change the Filter and the approximately 3Qts of Fluid you get out when dropping the Pan. I would consider one of the Tranny Shop "Power Flushes" for the same reason. At least check condition of Engine Belts and Hoses (I change them as a matter of course). Again, since you don't know if it has ever been done, I would change the Brake Fluid. This is a nearly always ignored item of important maintenance on old vehicles. Over the years water is absorbed into the brake fluid, and if it boils (because the brakes are hot on a Mountain Grade?), you temporarily lose your brakes (pedal goes to the floor same as air in the line). Voice of experience here...

Crawl up on the roof and carefully check the condition of all caulking. Also see if any roof vents are brittle and replace accordingly. Actually, because they have a limited life expectancy (due to UV Damage) I would change them all. They are cheap and having one rip off in a wind gust on the Interstate would be no fun, especially if it is raining at the time. :)

Enjoy the Toy

Lew

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, so if your concern is the mileage, here are a couple more suggestions. Check Compression, if you haven't already. 128PSI is the lower limit. You will be real happy if you see anything over 160PSI. Our '82 was down to 130PSI at about 150,000Mi and our '86 has 163PSI at 72,000Mi. Check the Throttle Shaft for excessive wear (there will be some wear for sure). When you pull the Valve Cover to adjust Valve Lash, measure Cam Chain Stretch and more importantly, assure yourself that the White Nylon Cam Chain Guides aren't broken. Look down alongside the Chain with a Strong Light. At the bottom is where they break off. I think it is the one on the Driver side that breaks-maybe someone here can check me on that? Check the condition of the rear spring shackle bushings. They lead a tough life.

BTW, if you don't want to spend the time and parts removing the rear axle shafts and hub/brakedrum assy's to check the rear brake shoes, it is possible to do what I did. I drilled 3/8" holes in the brake backing plates to enable convenient inspection of the shoe thickness. As PA requires yearly eyeball inspection of brake shoes, many Inspection Mechanics do this routinely.

I would install new Dump Valves. It is a real PITA (and embarrassing to boot) to get to the Dump station and find the things are stiff and won't move, or just as embarrassing (and illegal to boot) to find when your black tank is about half full that the Valve starts leaking. Check that the toilet will hold a little water (to affect a gastight seal?). If it won't, you will get Odors. I would also replace the Propane Pressure Regulator as a matter of course (Tioga George recently had one fail http://vagabonders-supreme.blogspot.com/). If you have an Suburban or American WtrHtr, replace the Anode (that's an easy one to forget).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...