superman Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 long time lurker probably time to share. I picked up a Warrior and love it. There are a few problems I'm working out. all about the time and money. So I moved the batteries to under the couch built a larger box to install an aftermarket generator. I had to drill and tap the head of the generator so I could get vacuum for a fuel pump. I Moved the key and remote start inside the cab. I just got a new fuel tank 40gal. its from a 1987-1991 CHEVY GMC SUBURBAN. I have to cut off the neck and move it to the side of the tank. It's going to be mounted center rear. The tank is a little thick as it is and I need as much room as I can get. I'm going to make a skid plat that will also hold the tank. Then move the gas cap to the rear behind the sink cabinet. The fuel sending unit for the GMC will be modified to take the toyota fuel pump. The sending unit also has an extra vent line that will supply my generator. The reason I chose GM was the fuel gauges work opposite Toyota. http://www.classicinstruments.com/index.aspx?documentID=fuelgaugesandtank Then I just need to finish Painting and install a new AC. Then I can move on to the interior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 What did you use to patch the sections of Filon you cut out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superman Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 I cut out where it was bubbling and glued it back down. I Then used fiberglass and bondo re attached and smooth it out. Someone installed a bike rack on the back that did some damage to the skin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Ah. Well, you answered my next question which was going to be why you cut out such (relatively) large areas. What're you going to use for paint? I'd be tempted to use Interlux Brightside (marine paint). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 I just got a new fuel tank 40gal. its from a 1987-1991 CHEVY GMC SUBURBAN. The reason I chose GM was the fuel gauges work opposite Toyota. Are you sure about the GM sender being exactly opposite? Also , if so - what is the plan? Have the gauge be empty when it reads "full" and vice-versa? I put a 2nd tank in my Toyota Chinook. I had at first considered a GM Suburban fuel tank since I already have half-a-dozen of them here in all three sizes (25, 31, and 40 gallon). I opted not to do it with my Chinook but . . the 1978 Toyota frame is a little narrower then the 80s trucks. So maybe your's fits better. I found a Jeep CJ tank to be perfect. 15 gallon though, not 40 gallon. I don't really want a 40 gallon tank anyway. That is a lot of weight when full. Not sure I want an extra 220 lbs. hanging down there. About the sending unit. In all my Toyotas - 77, 78, and 88 - the actual resistance is 2-5 ohms when full, and 110 when empty. An 80s GM truck is 0 ohms when empty and 90 ohms when full. Note the 20 ohm difference with Toyota 110-empty and GM 90-full. I found that 20 ohms to make a BIG difference. But maybe you worked it out somehow. It's not that difficult to rewind the coils on the senders to get a custom reading. Also - note the that late 80s to early 90s Chevy Geo Trackers have the exact ohm range as Toyota uses. You might want to consider just using a Geo sender. I suspect they match because they are actually Suzuki units and of Japanese design. The GM Blazer-Suburban tanks I've got here are as thus: 25 gallon 29" X 28" X 11" 31 gallon 29" X 28" X 13" 40 gallon 35" X 29" X 13" The 15 gallon Jeep CJ tank I used is 26" X 19" X 11". Jeep sending works near the same as Toyota but needed some modification. Toyota is 2-5 ohms full and 110 ohms empty. Jeep is 10 ohms full and 73 ohms empty. Jeep filler neck is also right where I wanted it no mods. Sending unit access door is also bolt-in and not a "twist-lock" unit like GM uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superman Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Are you sure about the GM sender being exactly opposite? Also , if so - what is the plan? Have the gauge be empty when it reads "full" and vice-versa? I put a 2nd tank in my Toyota Chinook. I had at first considered a GM Suburban fuel tank since I already have half-a-dozen of them here in all three sizes (25, 31, and 40 gallon). I opted not to do it with my Chinook but . . the 1978 Toyota frame is a little narrower then the 80s trucks. So maybe your's fits better. I found a Jeep CJ tank to be perfect. 15 gallon though, not 40 gallon. I don't really want a 40 gallon tank anyway. That is a lot of weight when full. Not sure I want an extra 220 lbs. hanging down there. About the sending unit. In all my Toyotas - 77, 78, and 88 - the actual resistance is 2-5 ohms when full, and 110 when empty. An 80s GM truck is 0 ohms when empty and 90 ohms when full. Note the 20 ohm difference with Toyota 110-empty and GM 90-full. I found that 20 ohms to make a BIG difference. But maybe you worked it out somehow. It's not that difficult to rewind the coils on the senders to get a custom reading. Also - note the that late 80s to early 90s Chevy Geo Trackers have the exact ohm range as Toyota uses. You might want to consider just using a Geo sender. I suspect they match because they are actually Suzuki units and of Japanese design. The GM Blazer-Suburban tanks I've got here are as thus: 25 gallon 29" X 28" X 11" 31 gallon 29" X 28" X 13" 40 gallon 35" X 29" X 13" The 15 gallon Jeep CJ tank I used is 26" X 19" X 11". Jeep sending works near the same as Toyota but needed some modification. Toyota is 2-5 ohms full and 110 ohms empty. Jeep is 10 ohms full and 73 ohms empty. Jeep filler neck is also right where I wanted it no mods. Sending unit access door is also bolt-in and not a "twist-lock" unit like GM uses. I sure hope it is going to work. I read some conflicting information like you're saying. I checked it with a DVOM and it should work right. I am prepared to take steps to correct it if I have to. I plan on cracking into the gauge cluster and switching the E To F. I did see some guys were able to install new clusters with a tachometer from other Toyotas. I will have to look more into that later. I'm hoping to save on the weight by packing for my wife ha ha ha. no really my wife and I are in early 30s and like to drive across the country. Time is a big factor so less stops and time down is more time for fun. I wish I had asked questions before I started this. You could of saved me a bunch of time and money it sounds like. I really like your tank install and wish I would of copied it. LOOKS GREAT! Ah. Well, you answered my next question which was going to be why you cut out such (relatively) large areas. What're you going to use for paint? I'd be tempted to use Interlux Brightside (marine paint). I'm going to use Eastwoods Bright White. I picked up 2 1gal kits. Its a single stage and easy for me to lay down. Really its all I know how to do. I restored a mustang when I was a teenager and used that paint then. http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-usa-bright-white-paint.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 I found that when I rewired the tank sender in my 1988 - the ohmage is critical for gauge to read full. Toyota says 2-5 ohms for a full reading. I had two used Toyota senders that read 8 ohms when the float was all the way up and the gauge just read a little over 3/4s. It drove me nuts. The problem was just some extra resistance that developed over the years between metal parts in the sender. I finally unsoldered some leads a sender all part. Cleaned it up and got it to 2 ohms when the float was up all the way. Now my gauge says "full" when the tank is full. Close enough. Keep in mind if you get in a pinch - the Chevy Tracker Geo senders are perfect as far as the resistance range goes. They also happen to have the same bolt-circle mounting pattern to bolt right onto a Toyota fuel tank. You can find them brand new for $25 if you shop around. Much cheaper then a Toyota sender. Amazon had them for awhile for $18 each. If you wind up needing any GM parts - like for 80s Blazers and Suburbans, let me know. I've got a private junkyard full of them and much will be going to the crusher soon. Gas tanks, senders, gauges, etc. I'd stick with the Jap stuff though if it was mine. General Motors and Suzuki # 30000151 Dorman # 692019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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