bufbooth Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 The Driver side Cabover was leaking in the top forward edge when I purchase it and I sealed it shut but the damage was done and each year the soft spot kept on getting larger. The damage was that about 6 inches of the top 1x2 framing board was rotted away, and about 1 inch of the front window plywood was rotted away. From the window on down was solid plywood, the rest of the area around the window was 1x2 wood framing with about 3/4 inch of styroform between the framing. Under the outer layer of fiberglass siding was a 1/4 inch layer of stryroform panels. The inside layer was 1/8 (or thinner) inch sheet of paneling / veneer. I decided to skip the framing and use a single piece of plywood. I did install one vertical 1x2 framing board to locking into the existing frame about 6 inches behind the window. Using carboard for a templete, I ended up with sort of a hexagon (5 sided) pattern that was about 40 inches high and about 50 inches wide. Going from the inside, I was able to bolt the left side to the new framing board that I installed, from the bottom I was able to use screws to attach the bottom of the plywood to the existing plywood cab floor, was able to attach the plywood to the two sides of the front nose. I was not able to directly secure the plywood to the top framing board, so I used a couple pieces of sheet metal to connect the top framing board to the plywood. Also, on all sides of the plywood I used Gorilla Glue. The plywood was a 3/4 inch sheet of OSB. The 1/4 inch stryroform panels I got at Home Depot, and Lowes also had it, I had to by 30 sheets of it but only used one sheet. Dennis B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noahrexion Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 What did you use to hold the fiberglass sheet back onto the foam board (or OSB)? I guess I'm not totally sure how your cab over is now layered. Also, did you happen to take any pictures of the paneling disassembly? I think I'm going to be resealing all my exterior paneling this winter and have yet to find anyone with pics/instructions on how to properly take apart/seal the aluminum roof: side areas yet. Thanks so much for sharing these pictures, I was wondering if you were going to just use plywood after I saw you post in John's thread. Nice to see other options! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noahrexion Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Actually now that I've stared at your super-sized version of the last photo - it looks as if the aluminum roof bends over the fiberglass siding: is this the case? Do you have any other photos of this? Can you explain briefly how the layering goes (ie: siding, aluminum, butyl tape, trim piece, screws, vinyl aesthetic piece...etc)? I'd hate to put everything back together after a repair and still have a leak ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 Hello, On my Odyssey, the aluminum roof bends over the sides, about a half an inch. I did run into a problem with this, it looked like a small section was getting short sheeted, that is did not bend as far over. Either it was originally like this from the factory (would explain my past leak), or age caused my side walls to expand slightly, or I did not have the right tool to rebend the roof over as far, or I could not compress side installation enough. What I ended up doing was going to the hardware store and purchased aluminum roof flashing shingles that were 3 x 6 inches, about $3 for 10 of them. I cut these in two (1.5x6) and bent them 90 degrees. I think I only used 3 sections of them in which I overlapped them by a ½ inch, so I probably covered about 17 inches in length. I then rubbed a little putty on them and slid them under the aluminum roof and then bent the aluminum roof over the flashing shingles. This gave me about a ½ to ¾ inch over hang on the siding from the flashing and I was still able to bend the aluminum roof ¼ to ½ inch over the side. Once I put edge trim on, it fully covered the flashing singles. I put new butyl tape under the metal edge trim and then screwed it into the siding through the flashing. I did use a small drill bit to make the hole in the flashing for the screw holes. I then chalked the trim on the roof, and put in new trim ribbon (covers the screws). The roof ended up looking nice and solid. When I got to the nose section there was no Aluminum roofing. I thought about using the flashing to cover the area that the siding and fiberglass nose met, but ended up using chalking, enough that it ran out when the siding gets screwed down, that way I know all the gaps are filled in. I then put the butyl tape under the metal edge trim and screwed it down, chalked the trim on the nose side and put in new trim ribbon. Dennis B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted October 28, 2011 Author Share Posted October 28, 2011 I used Gorilla Glue to glue the fiberglass siding to the 1/4 inch foam panels. I just put the glue on the flats (vs the flats and grooves), that way as the glue expanded it had room to expand into the grooved part of the siding. I also used Gorilla Glue to glue the 1/4 inch foam panels to the OSB plywood. Dennis Booth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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