waiter Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 We had to drive down to Marion Ohio (250 miles round trip) Sunday so decided to take the ToyHouse. This is the first time its been out since doing all the work on it, so this was a preliminary shake down cruise. We're planning on going down to Florida next week to watch the Shuttle launch. That will be the big Shake down before the Alaska trip in May. Anyway, all went well, had strong headwinds (30mph) on the way down and averaged 11 mpg at about 60mph. On the way home, we averaged about 25 mpg, and used the OD all the way (30 mph tail wind) TRIP NOTES I was able to make some adjustments on the Cruise control and got it to lock up at 65 mph. Turn the "Frequency Adjust" to the maximum. This adjustment effected the span and gain, but I think I like how it behaves. I'll play with it some more on the way to Florida. The Cruise still kicks off when I use the turn signals. I may need to install a relay on the brake lights and then use a set of contacts from the relay for the cruise. This will electrically isolate the cruise from the brake circuit. Something weird going on, but without diagrams for the cruise, there's not a lot I can do. I still need to check the fluids and make sure nothing weird happened. (oil, Trans, coolant) I installed a self adhesive weather seal on the main door before we left. Quited the wind noise from the door significantly. The kind I used wasn't foam, it was like a miniature brush with whiskers. I'll get a photo of the stuff I used. I still need to pop the tail lights, clean the sockets with fine paper, and maybe put a small chunk of foam behind the socket to help press the base of the socket against the bulb. I'll get some photos of this when I do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrior92 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Waiter, I know what you mean with the head wind verses the tail wind. The wife and i took a shake down cruise in our Toy Home this week end as well. We left Dallas Fort Worth area and went up to the WinStart Casino for the weekend. Buy the way they have a really nice new and clean RV park on the casino grounds. Also they have a shuttle to take you back and forth to the casino. The shuttle runs every 15 minutes 24 hours a day. On our way up to Oklahoma i kept it in OD and could run between 60 and 65 just fine. On the way home they wind was howling. Not sure how high the wind was but it kept trying to push the Toy Home off the road. I had to drop out of OD about half way home and could only run between 57 and 60 to fill good that i wasn't pushing the toy to hard. The wife and i had a great time on our first trip oh and the dog! It does take some getting used to being in such a small area. We are no sure how this will work with our 3 boys and the dog. We will be taking a trip to Carlsbad NM with the kids for spring break. It will be tight but we fill we are ready for a longer bigger trip now. Everything on our Toy seamed to work just fine. Only one thing in question. When i disconnect my water hose from thr RV water poured out of the RV. I guess this was all the water in the lines. Is it supposed to do this when you discconect the water hose? Glad everything checked out for you on your trip. All your hard work has paid off...... Now its time to go and enjoy your Toy!!! Eddie in Texas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 We had to drive down to Marion Ohio (250 miles round trip) Sunday so decided to take the ToyHouse. This is the first time its been out since doing all the work on it, so this was a preliminary shake down cruise. We're planning on going down to Florida next week to watch the Shuttle launch. That will be the big Shake down before the Alaska trip in May. Anyway, all went well, had strong headwinds (30mph) on the way down and averaged 11 mpg at about 60mph. On the way home, we averaged about 25 mpg, and used the OD all the way (30 mph tail wind) I have gotten behind big rigs and drafted before, it really works! TRIP NOTES I was able to make some adjustments on the Cruise control and got it to lock up at 65 mph. Turn the "Frequency Adjust" to the maximum. This adjustment effected the span and gain, but I think I like how it behaves. I'll play with it some more on the way to Florida. The Cruise still kicks off when I use the turn signals. I may need to install a relay on the brake lights and then use a set of contacts from the relay for the cruise. This will electrically isolate the cruise from the brake circuit. Something weird going on, but without diagrams for the cruise, there's not a lot I can do. I still need to check the fluids and make sure nothing weird happened. (oil, Trans, coolant) That sounds like an after market OD. My factory will kick in at just about any speed as long as the load on the engine is low. I installed a self adhesive weather seal on the main door before we left. Quited the wind noise from the door significantly. The kind I used wasn't foam, it was like a miniature brush with whiskers. I'll get a photo of the stuff I used.I still need to pop the tail lights, clean the sockets with fine paper, and maybe put a small chunk of foam behind the socket to help press the base of the socket against the bulb. I'll get some photos of this when I do it. Have you considered the LED replacements? Never mess with those pesky low output bulbs and sockets ever again. Under $200 bucks and tailgaters will know when you hit the brakes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 Yah, Its an Aftermarket CC, but haven't been able to find out who, what were or when. ZERO - I manually looked through all the photos on Google, nothing. I was thinking it might be a Dana, but not 100% sure. The servo is electric, not vacuum. No, its not a Rostra. I'm pretty sure it was installed by National RV when they built the MH. New CC runs about $250, so if this one will work. I'm looking at the LEDs, The flat Circuit board kind are about $10 each, need four and then also need the LED turn signal flasher. Thinking about just soldering the wires right to the bulb base, then don't have to worry about crappy sockets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 I'm looking at the LEDs, The flat Circuit board kind are about $10 each, need four and then also need the LED turn signal flasher. Thinking about just soldering the wires right to the bulb base, then don't have to worry about crappy sockets. Not sure those would be a good choice for tail lights. For use with a red lens you want to use red leds and for amber, amber leds. Reason is as I have learned on LED sites is the white are full spectrum with very little red light and the red lens filters out everything but red so the actual power becomes diminished because only the red makes it through. With a red led the led produces red and only red so most of the power actually makes it through the lens. Here is a clip from http://www.superbrig...rbulb-notes.htm For best results the LED color should be the same as the lens color or if bulb is behind a clear lens, use the appropriate color for turn and brake light functions. As an example: a red lens will filter out all but the red portion of the light so if the light is all red, none or very little light will be blocked by the lens. The light from a White LED contains very little light in the red portion of the visible spectrum so most of the light would be filtered out by a red lens. Bargman makes a couple of options. One is drop in the other the complete set. I put in the complete set and am very happy. Are yours by chance Bargman? They are really bright. They hurt your eyes if your too close when the brakes are on. Here are some links drop in http://www.pplmotorh...ght-upgrade.htm These replace the lens and plug into the sockets. Complete http://www.pplmotorh...man-84-tail.htm mine are the 3 with backup. Mine happen to be both red but I am sure you can get them red and amber also but I don't see them listed. These are direct wire, no sockets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 I looked at those Bargman replacements. nice if you got the cash ($145 for two full sets, its cheaper to buy the complete three light assembly than it is to just do the replacement lenses. go figure. Anyway, these are the ones I was looking at : http://www.superbrig...s%2Fpcblamp.htm I'll use urethane adhesive and just glue the circuit card to the back of the light fixture. Mine are both red also. One is for the brake and the other is turn signal. Use the Red LEDs, I think there is a note in there about the current limiter is in the base, so you can't cut the base off. no big deal, just solder the wires directly to the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 They look good. How will you control the two different light levels,running and stop? The bargman are both brake and tail. So on one side the outer is also brake and tail and the middle is turn and tail. Dual intensity for each module. The third (reverse light) is a standard incandescent. Brake light is always on even with turn. I believe they are electronically controlled as it is the leds themselves that change intensity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 16, 2011 Author Share Posted February 16, 2011 The 1157 model has dual light. it could plug into the socket and then need to mount the circuit card. I'll solder small wires to the light bulb base and wire it directly, The sockets are the weak link in this so I'll just bypass them. 5 lumens tail light and 14 lumens brake light. I ordered them, this morning. $45 include shipping. (4 each, red LEDs, 100deg) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wistoy Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Oh Boy, you people are makeing me really itchy, My Toy is still under 2 ft of snow and I have a bad case of spring fever I will not take my toy out before the salt is off the roads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I agree the sockets are a weak link. I looked at the bargman site but could not find any brightness ratings. How about posting this project in the Improvement and do it yourself projects. It looks like a good alternative to the bargman lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 16, 2011 Author Share Posted February 16, 2011 How about posting this project in the Improvement and do it yourself projects. It looks like a good alternative to the bargman lights. Will do. The narn sockets get dirty inside, and they loose their "springyness", so now they don't contact the base of the bulb. Fortunately, I took the three light assembly off, and there's plenty of room behind it along with extra wire. so it looks like a doable project. Maybe this weekend if it doesn't rain outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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