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New Sunrader and axle Q's


COYota

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Hi all,

I've been watching here for several months and I finally took the plunge and bought a 1984 18' Sunrader on eBay. I'm afraid I may have overpaid a bit considering the work it needs, but I'm still happy to have it. I expected it to need some work, but it looks like it'll need a little more than I hoped.

The stove, fridge, furnace, water pump and water heater all seem to work fine, so that's a plus. Rooftop AC is almost new. The floor and all the body work is solid. There's been a little leakage around the front cabover windows, so I expect I'll be pulling them out soon. There's a little water staining and mildew on the fabric around them, but the structure seems to be solid, so once its sealed up, I hope I can get away with just a good cleaning. The waterlines going to the shower were cracked, so I'm in the process of replacing them with new Pex tubing. Haven't been able to test the toilet yet. The upolstery and carpet were worn and dirty, but for now they'll just get cleaned. The dinette tabletop is missing, so I'll need to fabricate a new one.

The first big project is going to be upgrading the suspension. It still has the 5-lug axle, so that's gotta go. It also needs shocks and tires. I have a line on a 1T full floater axle from a 1990 U-Haul truck. I understand that later axles like that need to have the spring perches moved inward. Is that a good swap otherwise? I'll have a local shop do the work. I'm afraid that it'll be a little beyond my capabilities. Would it be a good idea to get the springs along with the axle?

The donor truck can also provide a 6-lug front. My understanding from a post here is that I'll need the hubs, rotors, calipers, dust shield, and wheels wheels from the other truck. Anything else?

The engine runs good and cruises comfortably at 65, but has some timing chain noise and a little rod knock. It also leaks oil. Not too surprising given its high miles. I'll probably live with it as is for now, and swap in a rebuilt long block down the road a ways.

Thanks to all for the great information I've found here already. I'm looking forward to this project and enjoying my Sunrader for years to come.

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Hi. Rich Carl here, Sunrader restorer and reseller. About the rear axle you need, I have one for sale including 4 correct 14" wheels and can I deliver it to your door. Fotos available. Trucking freight costs about $500 due to the 3 pallets weighing in around 500 pounds. I'm soon driving from Michigan to California and can deliver for no extra charge. This axle came off a 1990 Toyota RV having 21k miles, front end only damage due to a wreck, but the coach and driveline were undamaged. Write me directly at Rich_Carl@yahoo.com or call 517-410-3217. Another buyer is interested but first-come-first-served.

Here's things to consider about your axle swap. The one ton axle was used on ToyRVs, Toyota landscape/flatbed trucks, and Toyota U-Haul trucks. Axles become available usually only when the vehicle got wrecked or the donor truck became so worn out from heavy use and high mileage it was not worth putting money into. Here you are with an unsafe light-duty rear axle and needing a one ton full-floater. This is not the area on your RV to cheap out. Get a known-good one ton axle so you never have to replace it again. You'll still need to replace the rear diff gear lube and likely turn the drums and put on new shoes.

I've done a couple axle swaps, alone in my residential driveway, can offer this info. Yes, it's a good and necessary-for-safety swap. No you don't need the later-model springs set. Use your existing leaf springs to avoid welding on new spring perches required by the later-model springs. With the axle off is the time to install Firestone Ride-Rite airbag suspension; that way the old springs are OK. The one ton axle housing is physically thicker so you need 4 new, correct-width-and-length U-bolts. I get them for $10 each at a truck spring supplier. You will need to modify or replace your 2 rear shock mount plates to accomodate the wider U-bolts. Toyota no longer sells the plates so you need to find 2 donors (virtually impossible) or a welder can modify your existing ones. Also would be wise to replace the old fixed and flexible brake lines -- cheap money, good safety upgrade. Put on Bilstein shocks, front and rear. It's likely your sway bar mounting brackets need to be cut off the old axle and welded onto the new one ton axle. Replace the sway bar bushings and the link end bushings with poly bushings from Downey Off-Road. Note that some ToyRVs of your vintage didn't have rear sway bars. Any more questions, call me.

Rich

I have a line on a 1T full floater axle from a 1990 U-Haul truck. I understand that later axles like that need to have the spring perches moved inward. Is that a good swap otherwise? Would it be a good idea to get the springs along with the axle?
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