Resealing windows?

[Josh]

Hello all,

This has been a very helpful website. thanks to those who put it on.

My wife and I recently found, fell in love with, and bought a 1983 18ft sunrader. We are now in the process of fixing her up. Our first priority is to reseal the windows. We were told the following general steps:

1. take out windows

2. place in putty tape

3. put back in windows

4. apply silicon to all seals

Does this sound right?

Any suggestions on the best way to apply the silicon?

any special suggestions about the front windows that don't come out?

Thanks in advance to all of you fellow sunrader lovers out there.

Josh

P.S. the 4X4 versions are sweet!

[Dirk]

I chose to use a synthetic-rubber based caulk on my aluminum windows. (Suggested by my local boating supply store for weather resistance and flexibility.) Although it seams modified-silicone polymer based caulks are very good too.

Several boat repair links generally seem to prefer bolting the window on rather than using screws.

1. removing the windows

2. Take the time to COMPLETELY clean the mating surfaces well and you might even lightly sand the surfaces for better bonding

3. run a very generous bead of caulking around the mating surface

4. let it skin

5. reinstall the window BUT do not tighten screws completely. use shims to space the frame off the fiberglass about 1/16" to 1/8"

6. allow the caulking to cure -> follow the caulking manufacturer's recommendations based upon temperature.

7. last tighten everything down

Here's a good link regarding caulking: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00146.asp

[Josh]

Thanks for the input and the site. I'll let you know how it goes.

Edited March 16, 2006 by Josh

[Dirk]

Dirk,

My wife and I had a full weekend. First, we didn't just have to reseal the windows. The wood paneling had been damaged all around the loft window on the passenger side. Plus the wood was being rotted on the floor of the loft on the same side. Being the first time we tried to do this type of work ourselves, it was more of an adventure than a pain. We spent the week duplicating the wood panel itself so by Saturday it was just a matter of putting on the framing and foam. While I did this, My wife broke out all the damaged wood in the floor with a utility knife and replaced it with fresh wood. It was a little make shift, but it turned out not looking too bad. It was so rewarding when we put it back in and it matched up with the place for the window. It was even more rewarding when the window itself fit nicely and the holes matched up. Its almost unbelievable that the caulking job looks like it is keeping the water out!

Thanks again for the tips on how to caulk. Ours wasn't the most professional looking Job, but it seems to be working. Practice makes perfect. You were right about getting the mating surfaces clean. That's what took the longest. We had out first big rain last night, but the 'rader is in the shop getting new carpet and a new loft mattress. (We are so stoked!) I guess we'll find out this weekend how our work held up.

If you want I can post some pics As soon as I figure out how to do that.

Any luck with the break in hte rain?

Josh

P.S. the 4X4 versions are sweet!

Hi Josh,

I haven't started yet. I have a small amount of repair to do on the cabover, but nothing as major as your project.

I have peeled the interior paneling of the sides and roof. Luckily, I was able to pull out the paneling 99% intact, so duplication will be less of a hassle. I also pulled off all the front and floor carpeting. It looks as if my flooring is in good shape, though the cabover's is "weathered," but not to the point of needing to be replaced. Since we have a dog, I plan to Pergo the main floor, but haven't figured out what to do for the cab-over..maybe newer shag. =O)

I have also pulled the marker lights off and I'm in the process of replacing and rewiring them. I 'm soldering the connections so I don't have to worry about loosing any ground connections after I put the interior back together.

I'll have to wait to put the marker lights back on until after I finish recovering the roof, which, as with many motorhomes, was neglected. I'm trying to decide whether to re-glass the roof or use a rubberized roof coating. Either way I have to work on chipping off old caulking and removing all that's bolted down.

We've only had 1-2 days of nicer weather and the temp is still a bit chilly to let things cure so I clamber onto the roof and chip away for a bit then fiddle around in the interior. I've partially disassembled the overhead cabinets on the passenger side to gain access to the rear marker light wiring and to make it easier to replace the chrome roof railing. NOTE to SELF: will have to replace most of the screws as many are rusty.

It seams like a lot, but the previous owners took it to the beach quite a bit, so I figure I should take my time and make sure I don't miss any salt damage.

With all this (and the ?upgrades? I want to do), I also decided to make a "to do" list to help me keep on track....I get side tracked really easy. =O)

I'll be looking forward to seeing the pics!! I should have started taking ?before? photos. I think it would be cool to have documented for ?historical.?

Dirk

[Dirk]

Hey Josh,

How's the interior coming?? I finally started removing the windows. I had two out and cleaned before the weather changed. I'm taking my time now because I'm hoping the weather will start getting nice soon. Weather's bad part about living in northwestern Oregon. I'll have to think about investing in a pole barn so I can work on my projects!!

~Dirk

[bajadulce]

very nice details on resealing windows.

As far as roof, if you do re-glass, you'll have to scrape down/grind to "bare glass" (wondered where that smiley would be appropriate!) for a solid bite. Where as a rubber coating may be able to be applied over a semi scraped/ground roof. I definitely would get rid of those silly aluminum rack-bars if you have those - and any other "screwed" down crap. Maybe you can grind away/patch any problem areas with a glass patch and then rubber coat general roof?

Do you have any "pooling"? waterstains?

[Dirk]

Bajadulce

Thanks for the info.... I have decided to go the simpler route and use the rubber roof coating. The aluminum roof rack is going for sure and I am definitely getting rid of as many screws and holes as possible.

I do have some pooling and a little (nothing near as bad as your roof photo) so I need to take care of that. I'd like to reinforce the roof to prevent any future sagging as well.

Unfortunately, I don't have another Sunrader or roof photos to compare my roof to.

Edited April 28, 2006 by Dirk

[Dirk]

Started on the windows again...... =O) ....the sludge front the stock seal sucks to remove! Acetone and patient work wonders.....can't wait for warm weather tho!!!

[Dirk]

Update: I'm taking my time but have most of the Sunrader's windows have been resealed. I've been using Boatlife's Life-Caulk polysulfide caulking ($19.00 per tube) that I purchased from my local West Marine. I have to say that I really like it. It takes about two-three weeks to cure and there is a strong chemical odor while curing (for the first 1-3 days?). I like the fact that you can apply it underwater....less worring about the weather while you work.

I've decided to try using TRAVACO 's Gluvit Epoxy Waterproof Sealer for the roof, when I get to it.

Edited May 12, 2006 by Dirk