Dirk

I've been slowly pulling apart the interior of my '83 Sunrader (21') and replaced the roof vents. I didn't see any wiring.

Lookin' forward to the write-up!!

**disclaimer** I don't know much about auto electric, just what I've tinkered with. That said...... I think the best thing to do is to calculate your MAX amp load and consult a reputable alternator company. I purchased a 190 amp CS-144 large case alt for my car from Wranglernw.com. I believe the tag indicates it puts out 110 amps at idle. The alt was $395 (I got a price break) normally it would have cost $450-550.00. HOWEVER, these days with all the electronics in vehicles, you can get stock alternators that put put up to 210 amps with a bit of research. Brackets to mount a GM large case alt into an '83 Toyota are cost $80.00 or you can fab them yourself. You can mount anything anywhere with a bit of determination! I run 1/0 gauge ground and pos welding cables to the battery (overkill, but no worries). You have to upgrade your battery isolator to handle the amps also. You can change pulleys to over or underdrive the alt, but remember to consult a pro! Hope that helps! -Dirk edir: just found a good link: http://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/l...ifiers_faq.html

you might try one of the Toyota offroad websites. They do a lot of swaps.

Seems like it could be lots of stuff....engine, transmission (clutch/converter slippage), gear ratios, tire size, vehicle weight, a combo of all of the above, etc. Best to start cheap and work your way up.

<br /><br /><br />hi John, I'm no expert, but from what I've seen, the 5 sp manual transmissions are fairly common. Here's two good links for more research: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/ http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_transmissions Usually the 5th gear is an overrdrive, the % depends on the year it was produced. As far as the odometer, if it a cable or drive gear issue its easy. I've never messed with the odometer innards. Hope that helps. Dirk

I'm interested to see how it turns out.

Bajadulce how's the camper coming along?

Here's some good readings on the issue..... Mark's Fulltime RV Resource Page http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/12volt/12volt.htm (This is a pretty indepth article) Battery FAQs http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/BatteryFAQ.htm

I have seen a few flatbeds with the dual axle...one recently was only $950. So they can be found if your patient. Here's a link to a conversion kit for toyota axles...not sure exactly how much it beefs up the axle, but it might be worth looking into. http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/c...e94e732f58811aa Conversion article http://www.off-road.com/toyota/projects/ta...imate_axle_pt1/ http://www.off-road.com/toyota/projects/ta...imate_axle_pt2/ http://www.off-road.com/toyota/projects/ta...imate_axle_pt3/ Other info: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/fullfloater/ http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/12...r_axle_upgrade/

You might look into a narrowing a 10.5" ring gear GM 14 bolt axle (ton) http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/14bolt.html http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/1...ible/index.html

Love the mini-itx.com site, I like their idea's on computer moding...I've been thinking of making an Ammo can (http://mini-itx.com/projects/ammobox/) using the VIA EPIA N10000 Nano-ITX board. =O) ...looks fun. Gorilla surfing is a great idea, plus there are more and more hotspots popping up (http://www.wififreespot.com/). Eastern Oregon has a 600-square-mile hotspot (http://wifinetnews.com/archives/002903.html), might as well take advantage of them while on the road. Seem like it will be only a matter or time before the prices are equal to CABLE or DSL!!! Hey you have to have something to do once you've done everything....what you want nature ALL the time.... (that's what I tell me wife at least) LOL

you are correct, but the questions I asked are to determine whether you would want to look for a free floating dual axle or have an axle shortened and swapped in thereby requiring a new u-joint and/or length of drive shaft. Not being an expert on the whole axle swap thing, from all the stuff I read I would think that the axle would be "okay" as long as the Sunrader's weight is low. The issue with the axle recall seems to center around the motorhome manufacturers building them over chassis specs.. How much does/will your Sunrader weigh loaded? Was the motorhome well maintained (axle fluids changed). I would swap out the semi-floater axle for a full-floater axle or a custom axle one less thing to worryabout.

Do you want to stick with a stock axle or do you mind having a custom drive shaft made?

Cool thanks!

Inclinometer...me thinks

Greg, What did you use for the direct replacement for the stock converter? I'm thinking of replacing mine soon and was looking for ideas. Also, I've been doing a bit of research on the whole charging system thing...here's a few interesting links that I have found: "Mark's Fulltime RV Resource" http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/index.htm Markl's nice write up on 12 volt systems: http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/12volt/12volt.htm "Technical Information for Mobile Electronics Installers" http://www.the12volt.com/ This site has a guide to planning a solar sytem for your RV http://www.rvsolarelectric.com/custom.htm

Bajajuice --Sounds like a fun time....sounds like a logical approach. I did the composting toilet idea are you buying and installing it or building one? (http://www.compostingtoilet.org/)! Heck, all you need is 190 AMP Alternator, a DLP projector and screen for movies and a sat. dish for a nice roling hotspot....maybe a Wireless LAN too for on the road gaming with friends in other vehicles.

I agree with Shoprat.... Also, you might want to figure the rest of the load on you charging system. (Rear Window Defogger...25 amps, High Blower...20 amps, Headlights on low beam...15 amps, high beam...25 amps?, Windshield Wipers...6 amps, Ignition...6 amps, Brake Lights...5 amps, A/C?, stereo system? radio, running lights?, TV?, etc....whatever you might use on the road.) Heat and is also a factor that affects the alternator's function and life. Wiring (gauge, length & connections): I have a 190 AMP alternator in my 1970 1/2 pro-touring Camaro and switched over to a 1/0 gauge wire for the charge and the ground wires. I also took time to add additional grounds to the engine, front clip, and chassis. Then I cleaned and used dielectric gel to coat the almost all of the electrical connections. I plan to do the same on the Sunrader since many of the connections that I've come across are corroded or use wire nuts. I'll probably redo most of the wiring and do as much soldering as possible. There are various charts available on the Net to determine what gauge wires you should use based upon the length and load that you are using. http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm If you go with a larger alternator, ask the rep what the at idle output is and be sure to also replace the isolator or isolator/combiner with one rated for your charging system. Here's a good article: http://superchevy.com/technical/engines_dr...ics/0502sc_alt/ Here's a good FAQ site: http://www.alternatorparts.com/FAQ.htm Hope that helps.

40, 55, or 60 Amps.... External regulator (Tirrill) = 45 Amps External regulator (IC) = 40, 55, or 60 Amps I don't know the visual difference between the Tirill and IC...I think you can tell by the plugs. Have you tried to check the manufacturer's tag on the alternator? I plan an upgrade...if you want I can save you my stock alt....free if it matches your application. Also, there are several places that sell "upgrades." Like Northwest Offroad which carries 90-160 Amp Alternators. (http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/alternators.html)

That brings up a good point. Since we know there was an issue with overloading the chassis, it would only seem logical that the transmission (and engine) would suffer too. I haven't seen much on the net relating to Toyota torque converter and automatic transmission upgrades (like shift kits and bearing upgrades).

My wife and a saw RV a few weeks ago.....it was good for a few laughs......anyone else watch it yet?

HI, I agree with Turbo Greg, it seems weird that an OD tranny would run hotter with OD on since your RPMs are lower. There could be any number of things wrong, I would take it into a tranny specialist. or at least ID your tranny so you can get get a better idea of issues it might have. If you think your tranny is running hot, try installing a transmission temp gauge. Most info that I have read indicates that your tranny should run at <225 degrees. If your tranny is running hot I would suggest a tranny cooler. Here's a chart from TCI's website http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_life_expectancy.htm I got this off of the Toyota timeline at http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/ 1986 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner More new innovations were available from Toyota in 1986. The solid front axle gave way to a new independent front suspension (IFS) utilizing torsion bars and a-arms. This new suspension housed a differential with a 7.5" ring gear and 1 1/8", 27 spline axle shafts. A turbocharged 22RE was added to the available 22R and 22RE to compete with Nissan's new V6 powered pickup. The 22RTE was available with an R151F 5 speed manual transmission in the pickups only, or a 4 speed automatic A340H as an option in pickups and standard in 4Runners. The R151F came backed with a RF1A gear driven transfer case equipped with a 23 spline output shaft instead of the standard 21 spline shaft. This transfer case utilized a "forward" shifter in models with bench seats, while pickups equipped with buckets had a top shifting transfer case. 22R motors once again came backed by G52 or G54 5 speed manuals and "forward" shift RF1A gear driven transfer case. The 22RE was available with either a W56 5 speed manual and top shifting RF1A 21 spline gear driven transfer case or a A340F 4 speed automatic tranmission with a VF2A chain drive transfer case. Other mechanical changes for 1986 were optional automatic hubs and a standard 3" wider 8" solid rear axle with larger (10") drum brakes and axle tubes. The automatic used with models equipped with automatic hubs was the A340H 4 speed automatic transmission came with an electronically controlled integral transfer case. A digital dash was optional on the turbo 4Runner and all turbo models came equipped with a stronger four pinion rear differential. 1987 Toyota Pickup & 4Runner No significant model changes were made for 1987.

Update: I'm taking my time but have most of the Sunrader's windows have been resealed. I've been using Boatlife's Life-Caulk polysulfide caulking ($19.00 per tube) that I purchased from my local West Marine. I have to say that I really like it. It takes about two-three weeks to cure and there is a strong chemical odor while curing (for the first 1-3 days?). I like the fact that you can apply it underwater....less worring about the weather while you work. I've decided to try using TRAVACO 's Gluvit Epoxy Waterproof Sealer for the roof, when I get to it.

Check here: http://www.recalls.gov/