sunvader Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 I would like to remove this part so I can get it sand blasted and powder-coated. It's not as straight forward as a regular rear end where you un bolt your wheel and pry it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keitholivier Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 Jack up and support axle safely. Remove wheels. Remove the nuts that hold down the axle shaft flange. Underneath are "cone washers" that lock the flange to the studs. Best tool to loosen their grip is a slide hammer There are tapped holes in the flange where a slide hammer can be screwed into and grip of the cone washers broken. Once you get the cone washers out, the half shaft with flange will slide out, be careful to support it to avoid damaging the inner oil seal, or else you will soon be re-doing the job again and replacing the oil seals. If it will be open for more than a few minutes, cover the opening with aluminum foil secured with duct tape to prevent crap getting into the bearings and ruining them, since they won't be cheap. If you want to remove the entire hub and not just the central flange, you will then have to remove the pair of special nuts that preload the bearings, which will then allow the entire hub / drum assembly to slide out. You then have to split the hub / drum assembly which leaves you with the hub casting/forging. Now you have even more disassembly to remove the bearings and cover everything up prior to sandblasting. If I were you I would rather try to find a way of taking the vehicle somewhere to get it sandblasted in situ and then paint it with a proper catalytic paint. Less risk of getting the sandblasting media into such an expensive and safety critical assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunvader Posted July 26, 2008 Author Share Posted July 26, 2008 Thanks for the reply, but I still unsure what I need to do. If you don't mind can you please refer to the picture. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Hello Sunvader, Check out the diagram at the below location to see if it helps you, it is for a 1990 rear double wheel: www.tipton-in.com/toyota/rearaxax.pdf Once you remove the axle, the brake drum and center hub will just slide off as one piece. After that, I have not tried to remove the center hub from the brake drum, but it looks like it will slide off (maybe will a little help of tapping with a hammer). Dennis... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keitholivier Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Bufbooth has the factory explanation. Powder coating is cured in an oven at quite a high temperature (to melt the epoxy powder). Going this route will force you to replace any seals that are in that assembly because they will be fried and you have the danger of getting abrasive into the assembly, thereby possibly ruining the hubs. You will have to remove the bearing races else they may lose some of their temper since they are heat treated. Obviously what you are suggesting can be done, but using a catalytic paint is much less work and less risk because no disassembly is needed and there is no baking process. Powder coat tends to look more pleasing because it smooths marks a little, but that is a pretty rough part, so unless you spend a lot of time polishing it up by hand it will still look rough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunvader Posted July 27, 2008 Author Share Posted July 27, 2008 (edited) Thanks BufBooth and Keith Wow. Sounds like more trouble. I am getting my rims Chrome Powder Coated and I don't want this ugly white/rusty/greasy centre hub in the middle of nice chromed rims. Any other suggestions on what to do to the centre hub? Edited July 27, 2008 by sunvader Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtle Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 I always use high temp (BBQ type) paint on brake drums and such. Just make sure that you prep the parts completely. 99% of painting is prep work. Wire brush, sand paper, and degreasing will assure you a long lasting paint job on a challenging surface http://www.toymike.com/diesel/pics/rearSprings.jpg As far as rim coatings I have always used Hammerite paint on my RV rims. It holds up about 10 years before needing re-coating http://www.toymike.com/diesel/pics/rearRim.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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