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roof sealing, which way to go?


halonut

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Hello,

I have been reading about leak/roof sealing on some of the threads & am not sure which way to go. Diesel Mike if you're listening I'd love to hear more details about how you installed the fiberglass mats & how difficult it would be for someone who has no experience with fiberglass. How about the bedliner spray to coat & seal it?

My only big problem is with the overhang at the cab where there is a gap (1/16-1/8th in.) between the side panel where the roof curves around it. Can I recaulk this & then gently tighten the screws? Should I use eternabond to seal the gap? I am not aware of any other leaks but I just got the MH and it doesn't rain much in the summer in Nevada.

One of the vents has duct tape around it so I am assuming that it did (or does) leak and there is a small tear (about 1/2 in diameter) in the metal roof.

Any input & adivice will be greatly appreciated!

Thank you

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Can you post some photos of the separation and the hole?

Duct tape is not a very good all weather sealing tape. Eternabond works very well and I have used both the white vinyl and the aluminum tape. You should remove the duct tape and the vent and re seal it using butyl putty tape.

You may be able to do a combination of eternabond and a roof coating such as dyco 20/20 or dyco 890.

If you have not done any fiberglass the size of your roof you may want to consider other ways. Fiberglass is straight forward, you just put down multiple layers of chopped mat and cloth and lots of resin. I used 4 layers and the roof is solid as a rock. I was surprised at how well the gelcoat finished off everything. There had been several roof top carriers on top which left many holes through the metal roof and the area I needed to do was not that largesince it is only a 17' coach.

http://www.toymike.com/diesel/pics/roofDownToMetal.jpg

http://www.toymike.com/diesel/pics/roofDownToMetal2.jpg

http://www.toymike.com/diesel/pics/roofLastMat.jpg

Here is a pic of the finished roof. The sloping front has 2 coats of dyco 890.

http://www.toymike.com/diesel/pics/fiberglassRoofDone.jpg

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ok, i'll try to get a few pics posted in the next couple of days. Thanks!

oh, and other consideration...what about weight? wouldn't fiberglass or spray on liner both add quite a bit of weight? the poor lil 22RE (auto) is having a tough time as it is.

Edited by halonut
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Hello,

Here are the pics of the hole & screw holes from the rack on my roof. And also the a couple of pics of where the overhead curves in front and the gap that I was talking about. Any ideas on the best way I could fix em?

Thanks!

post-1678-1214190423_thumb.jpg

post-1678-1214190445_thumb.jpg

post-1678-1214190457_thumb.jpg

post-1678-1214190473_thumb.jpg

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The roof holes can be handled with some fiberglass tape and some sealer like dyco 20/20 or fiberglass resin if you want a more permanent fix. You may have to coat the entire roof with a sealer to cover up the repairs visually.

The rear separation is a symptom of something more sinister I feel. I bet you have a rear bath model and if you start pushing around the rear inside you may find it is soft.

I would remove the screws from the side trim and see how it looks under (rotten wood etc). If you do not find any rot you may be able to push everything back together and put in additional screws under the trim then put the trim back on.

Eternabond is good stuff but it does not look all that attractive when you bring it under the molding and over the body so you would be best off, cosmetically speaking, to try to get a repair that does not show in the rear.

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