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My Toyota Motorhome


Found 12 results

  1. Thought I'd share two minor improvements to the 91 Warrior that I completed recently: Center Caps My rig never came with any center caps on the front wheels (did they all originally, from the factory?), so I thought I'd make use of a recent hobby purchase, a 3D printer, to come up with a solution. Using Fusion360, I spent a crazy amount of time modeling and then printing about 10 different versions of these caps in ABS, trying to find the best way to engineer the retaining clips so that they could a) bend a little b) hold everything securely and c) not break instantly upon installation (harder than it sounds!). I also put the Winnebago logo on the front, obviously, which turned out pretty legit IMO... we'll see how they hold up, fingers crossed. It was a fun project and a great learning experience, especially in terms of gaining beginner CAD skills. AirLift 25804 Compressor Kit It's helpful to be able to adjust your air bags based on how much gear you've carrying and current road conditions. I typically like to run higher pressure (60+) when I'm doing long-distance, interstate travel on excellent highways—just keeps things tighter and less will-nilly, especially when the semis are flying past you, sucking you into that low pressure bubble (we all been there!). At the same time, if you're not carrying a full load or are just moseying around a state park, 40psi seems to be the way to go on my rig. I always bring a 12v compressor and tire gauge of course, but that process can be a hassle and definitely isn't something you can do on the fly! This kit comes with just about everything that you need to add onboard air to your rear air suspension. There are a few different options in terms of installation (some recommended, some probably not), but I chose to put the control panel near the driver's left knee and then ran the 1/4-in air line with 12v+ behind the vinyl flooring and through a sturdy grommet in the transmission tunnel, down to the compressor unit, which I mounted on the rear crossmember. Underneath, I was careful to keep the air lines FAR away from any exhaust components, and I wrapped the lines in a good bit of heat shield insulation where they passed over the transmission. I may also add some kind of "splash plate" over the compressor unit eventually, but I don't think it's going to get a lot of moisture where it is—if any water does intrude, I added some tiny holes in the downward corner of the case for easy drainage. So far, it's working great and will hold the same pressure for many days, no leaks! Also, due to the remote location of the compressor (and some sturdy rubber I sandwiched between it and the frame), it makes very little noise when running. I just really enjoy being able to adjust the bags while driving, to see the impact on ride and handling. (It IS just a single-circuit setup, however, so I can't adjust left vs right, but honestly I rarely ever did that before and don't mind the loss.)
  2. Just finished a nice little trip to Lake of the Ozarks SP over a long weekend. Great weather, nice scenery, and tons of surprisingly tame, white-tailed deer, right up around the Warrior for most of our stay. Brought our e-bikes along, per usual, and the wife and I had a great time buzzing around the area. Unfortunately, heading out of the park and down the main park entry road on our way home, a loud crash was heard overhead, then a few pieces of debris rained down on the hood. The large 59x12" cabover window is gone, as you can see—most of the glass ended up inside the window curtain and on the mattress. Not sure if a falling branch struck the window or if a large bird impacted or what - ?! We drove home just fine but kept it under 55mph. First time that's happened to us in our eight years of ownership. So the question is whether to try and replace the glass... or to block off that unlucky window opening completely. The large rubber window seal is in pretty good shape, it appears, but I know these Class C cabover windows tend to be problematic, even from the factory. I'm reading through the forum posts on the subject, but feel free to chime in here if you have any thoughts/suggestions. Thanks!
  3. I haven't seen this question asked in awhile (or ever heard a conclusive answer, maybe?)—but has anybody installed a good pullout entry step that they'd recommend? Specifically, I'm looking into solutions for a 91 Warrior that never had a permanent pullout step, from the factory or otherwise. The Warrior does have a fairly sturdy sheetmetal structure around the interior doorway step that I might be able to bolt up thru for mounting, but I'm curious to see what others have done. Thanks!
  4. All is working well, but I'm doing a bit of pre-Spring maintenance since it's sunny and 70º today—topping up my Group 29 with distilled water and cleaning up connections, etc. Anybody know what the three connections would typically be off of the coach battery positive wire, seen in the photo? One circuit breaker is 15A, the other two are 30A. I need to do more meter testing, but only one of them seems to terminate at the 12V panel inside. I assume that one is a charge wire from the Alternator... but what about the third?
  5. I'm a total dunce when it comes to engines. My hubby is away for a few months (figures!) and I have found what could be 'my' Toyota RV. I have to travel a few hours to look at it and don't want to waste my time or the owners if it is a dud. So, here is what I know.. It's a 1992 Itasca Spirit with 106k km. The ad reads... Clean, comfortable 22 foot motorhome Toyota cab, Winnebago coach. Toyota V-6, 3 liter engine. New fridge, 6 brand new tires. Generator. Tilt steering, cruise control, automatic with overdrive. 18 mpg. Always maintained, kept under cover. Manuals and receipts The photos show what looks to be a very clean, well maintained unit. No apparent rust on the body. What should I be asking and looking for? We currently own a large travel trailer, so I can deal with the appliance checks, sewer, etc. But, what should I be wary of as far as the engine goes? And the body? Help would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to miss this one if it is a goodie! Thanks in advance. Sue
  6. Year & Model: . 1992 Toyota Winnebago Itasca Spirit 320RB I want to replace the foam-rubber seal / weatherstrip / moulding that runs around the inside edge of the passenger-side coach entry door. Looks like I'll need about 20 lineal feet of seal. a) . Do I need to use the Winnebago OEM replacement part? . If so, from where do I order it, and how much will it cost? b} . Or, can I use an inexpensive, good-quality, functional equivalent from eBay, Amazon, Home Depot, Lowes, RV Parts Country, Camping World, Autozone, O'Reilly, Napa, or other supplier? c) . Please make suggestions and provide links if you have them. In cross section view, the existing seal resembles a very broad and open "V" shape, with about 120 degrees between the two "wings" or "sides" of the "V". 1) . One wing of the "V" is flat and adheres to the door. . I call this the flat wing. . It measures about 3/32" Thick (in cross section) x 7/16" Wide (in cross section) 2) . The other wing of the "V" is curved [curved concave towards the middle of the "V"] and gets thinner toward the tip of the "wing". . I call this the curved wing. . This curved wing measures roughly 3/32" Thick x 3/8" Wide. . [The convex side of the curved wing is the surface that presses against against the door frame when the door is closed, thus sealing the gap between the door frame and the door.] See attached photo: . In the photo, the seal is standing on the flat wing (adhesive side down), and the curved wing is projecting upwards and to the right. [Note to Website Staff: . As I was creating this post, a spontaneous emoticon kept appearing in place of the characters "b)" . I was finally able to suppress the spontaneous appearance of the emoticon by replacing the text "b) . " with the text "b} . "]
  7. I spent today going over all the various appliances in my rig (1992 Itasca Spirit). I've only had this baby for a few days, and in between taking care of my grandkids while their parents are away, I managed to get the furnace, fridge and hot water all running. I then changed the oil in the built in Kohler gennie, started outfitting the rig with gear and decided where to install the 19 inch flat screen TV I bought 2nd hand. After I'd changed the oil in the gennie, I thought I'd let it run for a bit while I tested out the AC and microwave. Microwave works great. AC not so much. I have no clue where to even begin trying to troubleshoot it. Fuse? Is there one? Missing a step in starting it? Can't see any more buttons or switches. The manual wasn't very helpful. Any suggestions? Thanks!
  8. Hi All, I'm looking for a replacement upper control arm bushing for my 1991 Winnebago Warrior. The small local auto shops can't located them quickly, what should I be looking for and where do you recommend I have them serviced? I'm going to be up in the Boston, MA area from tomorrow and want to get the service done there. Thanks in advance. Nick
  9. Looking for a good-fitting replacement cover for the right-hand portion of our double stainless sink. I've still got the original (laminate-over-chipboard) cover, but it's pretty nasty and badly needs an upgrade. I see a lot of different sizes online but wasn't sure if there are clear "standards" for RV sink dimensions. Appreciate any suggestions for a replacement. (Original cover outer dimensions: 14 1/4" x 11 3/8" || Inner dimensions: 13 1/4" x 10 3/8")
  10. I finally just said to heck with it and took off down the road on my first outing in "Red Emerald". I can't even begin to express how proud I am of the little Toyota motorhome. Not one single hitch what-so-ever. It was just and over nighter or weekender and I was using abundant caution and care. Watched my speed (below 60 mph) and monitored the tranny for any bad signs and didn't spot a single problem. So besides being a lot of fun and very comfortable it was also a big confidence builder too. Look forward to many more trips now. Here is a video: The Alltamaha WMA / Harris Neck NWR Road Trip
  11. I have a 1990 Toyota Winnebago Warrior. the over cab bunk windows are both cracked in multiple places. Like a spider web but not that tight. I'd like to replace these before they start to leak. I have the DOT info from the windows but don't know how to find the windows. Are "originals" still available? Can an auto glass shop make something suitable for me? The DOT info is: Guardian Safety Float Laminated AS3-90 2GG-MIN DOT 22 232 My little Toy has been wonderful and I plan to keep it a few more years so I wan't to keep it in top shape. Thanks for any help you can provide. ToyGoTa, because my Toy goes ta lots of fun places!
  12. Hi Folks, This is my first post here - I'm hoping some of you experts can share your expertise and advice towards a potential 1st time motorhome purchase. My wife and I (& two young kids) need a camper to travel round trip from Maine to Colo next spring for work, we'll be there for 5 weeks and don't want to rent a house/apt. Plus these little campers seem like a lot of fun in general Our family is used to tenting, so the Warrior would be a major room upgrade for us. We have a limited budget and can't spend a lot, but I also understand that you get what you pay for. We are used to old vehicles (95 Honda & 91 Volvo are our personal vehicles, the volvo has 365k miles!). So here is what we have found and are considering: 1988 Winnebago Warrior, 84k mi, 22RE, 4spd manual, $3700 (note this price overrides price in ad as it includes extra repairs necessary to pass inspection) - http://maine.craigslist.org/rvs/5651965292.html Model is rear bath with drivers side dinette (319RB?) Owner has done extensive restoration (replaced framing/foam/skin) to roof and walls and I've been unable to find any weak areas including on the roof. Fresh silicone is on all the seams. Roof recently painted. It rained a lot recently and I could find no damp areas. Drove it to my garage today (started immediately with cold engine) and mechanic couldn't find any serious issues. He did note that the head gasket has a minor leak (would pass inspection just fine). The $3700 asking price includes new tires, new brake pads/shoes, repair to exhaust, and rebuilt wheel bearings on front (owner is retired mechanic and is making these repairs). Engine oil looked good. Drive to the garage & back was 40 min total, speeds up to 55mph, some hills. This was my first time driving a MH but still I found it drove very well, had good power, steered straight, no unusual bouncing, shifted easily and clutch grabbed well. There has been a minor accident to the drivers/front/bottom corner of coach, where propane tank sits. Damage to Al and plastic exterior but tank is fine. Door for tank still latches, but just barely. Overall body paint needs a polish but otherwise seems good. Undercarriage shows some surface rust but nothing that the mechanic was worried about. Propane tank also has surface rust but seems solid and is full. I haven't done a pressure leak test from the tank to stove/heater/etc. Interior has operable stove (no oven), water heater, water pump. The fridge (orig) is missing it's gasket and has not been tested, I would be surprised if it worked. I would prob. get a small 12v fridge to replace it with. Window above sink is broken, local glass guy said $40 to replace. More TLC needed for cracked toilet seat, stained carpet, new curtains, and adding upholstery to bed-over-cab which has new foam (dinette upholstery looks fine). Coach AC blows cold and has new exterior cover. Both roof vents are new. There is no coach battery. Instead the previous owner rigged up the coach elec system to the engine battery, there's a household on/off switch to control the connection. I would want to install a deep cell for coach use. The previous owner also started to add solar, two panels are installed on the roof but the wires dead end inside the coach. Most of our nights will be in wild or free locations, so autonomy from the main grid is important. There is no radio, though 2 small speakers exist in cabin. Cruise control does not work. Cabin AC does not work (belt was removed), not a deal breaker in northern New England. The owner reportedly purchased this RV for $2500 2 yrs ago and the restoration has cost $700 so far not including the extra repairs I listed above. It's not been registered or inspected since then but he has driven it around the parking lot once in awhile. The owner previously owned an 84 Dolphin and bought this as an upgrade but has since injured himself to the point where long car trips aren't possible. He'd like to get the money he's invested back and seems unwilling to lower the price. We have several months before our trip to CO but don't want to miss out on a good opportunity, especially one that is so local for us. Thoughts? Advice?? Words of Wisdom??? Thank you!! Erik
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