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Showing results for tags 'seal'.
Found 5 results
Leaky roof and rotten wood
MikeyQ posted a topic in Whoops, Mishaps and Murphy's LawHello, I was about to set off on my first road trip in my new to me 1993 Winnebago Warrior before discovering the roof is leaking in two location. The forum seems to have a lot to say about products. First, what is thermo panel exactly and what product is best for sealing the roof? there is leaking at damaged area that appears to have been patched by previous owner, not just at lap joints. Secondly, any advice on pulling out the rotten wood and replacing it? If I want to do this right it looks like I will have to replace part of the roof. IMG_4599.HEIC IMG_4600.HEIC IMG_4601.HEIC
Question - replacing running lights
WAdolph92 posted a topic in General DiscussionHi 👋. Going to replace my running lights in the next few days. I have 2 questions to ask: 1. I’ve watched a few videos and none use anything to seal the running lights to the fiberglass. Is this recommended, and if so, with butyl tape? Seams like a potential leak waiting to happen if I don’t. I plan on cleaning all the old caulk down to the fiberglass, putting the new LED in place with screws, and sealing around the edge with Dicor lap sealant (non-sag). Sound about right? 2. The lights I purchased are below. Amazon (Partsam). One red and one black wire. Please help me know which wires to connect to which. 😀 Thanks! Julie in WA
Year & Model: . 1992 Toyota Winnebago Itasca Spirit 320RB I want to replace the foam-rubber seal / weatherstrip / moulding that runs around the inside edge of the passenger-side coach entry door. Looks like I'll need about 20 lineal feet of seal. a) . Do I need to use the Winnebago OEM replacement part? . If so, from where do I order it, and how much will it cost? b} . Or, can I use an inexpensive, good-quality, functional equivalent from eBay, Amazon, Home Depot, Lowes, RV Parts Country, Camping World, Autozone, O'Reilly, Napa, or other supplier? c) . Please make suggestions and provide links if you have them. In cross section view, the existing seal resembles a very broad and open "V" shape, with about 120 degrees between the two "wings" or "sides" of the "V". 1) . One wing of the "V" is flat and adheres to the door. . I call this the flat wing. . It measures about 3/32" Thick (in cross section) x 7/16" Wide (in cross section) 2) . The other wing of the "V" is curved [curved concave towards the middle of the "V"] and gets thinner toward the tip of the "wing". . I call this the curved wing. . This curved wing measures roughly 3/32" Thick x 3/8" Wide. . [The convex side of the curved wing is the surface that presses against against the door frame when the door is closed, thus sealing the gap between the door frame and the door.] See attached photo: . In the photo, the seal is standing on the flat wing (adhesive side down), and the curved wing is projecting upwards and to the right. [Note to Website Staff: . As I was creating this post, a spontaneous emoticon kept appearing in place of the characters "b)" . I was finally able to suppress the spontaneous appearance of the emoticon by replacing the text "b) . " with the text "b} . "]
Right around the same time Badgerbear posted about this same issue, I started noticing it on my driver's side rear axle: wet/dirty hub, strong smell of gear oil. Finally got time to start digging into the problem tonight (and, btw, I'm super-thankful for the great tips and photos that were posted in BB's earlier thread!). Once I got the darn cone washers out, I got a good look inside the hub, and everything is nasty/filthy in there! Can't wait to get that all cleaned up, looking good, with new grease. Anyway, it didn't take long to see what was causing the leak... the outer seal is totally wonky and off-center, as you can see in this photo (sorry, working outside in the dark; poor lighting). When I bought this Toy about 2 years ago, the PO told me that he had just had the rear brakes serviced to the tune of several hundred $$$, and I'm guessing that somebody didn't get that outer seal installed correctly (or, could it have moved somehow?). Fortunately, the inner seal was working great and the inside brake area was completely dry; everything in really good shape there. So, I'm going to replace the damaged seal, and check the bearings and repack 'em. I do have a few questions about all this, for the gurus: I'll need to pull the inner seal out to remove the inboard bearing for inspection/repacking, so... should I probably plan on replacing that seal too, given that it could get torn up during extraction? There seemed to be some sort of paper gasket material visible around the hub (see in above photo) once I pulled the axle. I haven't heard anybody mention a gasket like that—would black RTV sealant work as a replacement? Recommendations? Not really a question, but... I don't know how much fluid has been lost, so I probably better count on topping off the differential when I'm done. I banged up one of the six hub studs (see below) and put a nice, little curve in it, while trying to get a really stubborn cone washer loose. Will I need to order this from Toyota or is there another good source? (Links always appreciated!) Thanks for looking, guys/gals. Appreciate the help!
Stupid Question (Maybe?)
HannahSunrader84 posted a topic in General DiscussionHello! I bought my '84 Sunrader at the end of September, the previous owner had made lot's of "improvements". One of which was to take the inside frames off of the windows in the cabover bed, then he taped them on with roofing tape (the bane of my existence). Then he was confused about why it was leaking.... Anyway I have a very basic and possibly stupid question about the windows. I have one pulled out, am I correct in my assumption that the inside frame screws down to the outside frame creating a seal by tightening together on your sealant (butyl tape) ? Thank you in advance for your wisdom and help! I'll post pictures as I have them! Hannah