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My Toyota Motorhome


Found 10 results

  1. Are there causes for the coach water pump cycling when the system's not in use (no tap open, not flushing toilet, etc) other than leaks in the system? My pump does this somewhat intermittently. For instance, about 90% of the time, within 30 seconds after I've closed a tap or completed a flush, the pump will give one very brief grunt. About 50% of the time, between 3 and 5 minutes later, it'll give another grunt. Sometimes, but rarely, it'll grunt again 5 minutes later. After that, it doesn't happen again. I can (and have) leave the pump on all night and it won't grunt again. If its has its first grunt or two, I can turn it off over night and it won't grunt again when I switch it on in the morning. Other than one short section that runs behind the fiberglass bathroom unit wall, I've checked all the piping and connections and they're bone dry. I've checked the drain tubes coming from the system drainage valves, and they'd dry. I've checked the pump and the floor under the pump, and it's dry. I have checked the plumbing going into the water heater, and checked in, around and under the compartment it's in, but I haven't pulled the heater all the way out. I'm stumped! I did drain the system last year, is it possible there's an air bubble in there somewhere that's causing this? I've used all the taps since then.
  2. Dumb newbie question, I've developed a leak in the east coast storms and hurricane weather. I'm in the process of finding someone to help me get it fixed up, but in the meantime I'm trying to avoid making it worse. I've searched the forums and found a lot of camper covers, but I was hoping to find something more akin to a "cap" that would cover the top of my toyhome, but not much more than that. So we're talking the entire top, but only down so far as my overcab hangs, that way I could still drive with it on. Does such a thing exist? Should I just buy a regular cover and cut it up? Or should I just fashion one from a tarp? Anyone that's been through something with this.
  3. I was so stoked to purchase my first rig. Got it home, started cleaning and taking stuff apart and discovered this nastiness. Recommendations and/or resources for how to replace wood and possibly reseal windows? I’ve been told marine grade plywood with epoxy varnish and construction adhesive Doesn’t help to live in Oregon either.
  4. Right around the same time Badgerbear posted about this same issue, I started noticing it on my driver's side rear axle: wet/dirty hub, strong smell of gear oil. Finally got time to start digging into the problem tonight (and, btw, I'm super-thankful for the great tips and photos that were posted in BB's earlier thread!). Once I got the darn cone washers out, I got a good look inside the hub, and everything is nasty/filthy in there! Can't wait to get that all cleaned up, looking good, with new grease. Anyway, it didn't take long to see what was causing the leak... the outer seal is totally wonky and off-center, as you can see in this photo (sorry, working outside in the dark; poor lighting). When I bought this Toy about 2 years ago, the PO told me that he had just had the rear brakes serviced to the tune of several hundred $$$, and I'm guessing that somebody didn't get that outer seal installed correctly (or, could it have moved somehow?). Fortunately, the inner seal was working great and the inside brake area was completely dry; everything in really good shape there. So, I'm going to replace the damaged seal, and check the bearings and repack 'em. I do have a few questions about all this, for the gurus: I'll need to pull the inner seal out to remove the inboard bearing for inspection/repacking, so... should I probably plan on replacing that seal too, given that it could get torn up during extraction? There seemed to be some sort of paper gasket material visible around the hub (see in above photo) once I pulled the axle. I haven't heard anybody mention a gasket like that—would black RTV sealant work as a replacement? Recommendations? Not really a question, but... I don't know how much fluid has been lost, so I probably better count on topping off the differential when I'm done. I banged up one of the six hub studs (see below) and put a nice, little curve in it, while trying to get a really stubborn cone washer loose. Will I need to order this from Toyota or is there another good source? (Links always appreciated!) Thanks for looking, guys/gals. Appreciate the help!
  5. I discovered a slight leak in the closet of my 1984 Toyota Sunrader 18'. It was dripping down the vent pipe that goes down to the black water tank. Turns out there's a water line running alongside that vent pipe, and I traced it back down to where it attaches to another water line under the fridge near the heater. Fortunately, there's a valve where it attaches, and I was able to shut that off. My question is: What is this water line's purpose? Why does it even exist? Is there any harm in always leaving it turned off?
  6. I recently purchased a 1986 Travel Master and noticed a faint smell of gasoline in the cab while driving the other day. Once I was home I checked to make sure the gas cap was good and for any noticeable leaks and didn't see any, but I noticed a pretty strong smell of gas coming out of the exhaust pipe. What could be causing this? Does it require immediate attention or am I okay to drive?
  7. This antique propane tank leaks where the clear window (pressure gauge transducer is) as indicated by my leak detector. It empties the tank in about a month. Any idea as how to mitigate this issue? I am not even sure to how remove the tank either since it's under the closet inside (lift up from inside?) This is on 1990 Itasca Spirit.
  8. I found the source of my mold smell. I guess I should have pulled the overhead cushion back further before buying my 1993 Seabreeze. I probably would have bought her anyway though. Here is what I can see. Window leaking under wall paper and dripping into the seam. Seam is mushy. The actual wall still feels solid, but the wallpaper is no longer adhered to the wall. Is there any way to put a stop to this without tearing anything out? I was thinking about caulking the window and caulking closed the smelly seam. Is this a bad idea? Does anyone know how much this might cost to have it professionally repaired or how difficult it would be to cut out the moldy part? Hopefully the part that needs to be removed, if any, is the bed under the cushion near the wall and not the wall itself. Thank you for any help!
  9. Though the PO did a good job of Dicoring all the seams, I didn't believe him when he said "You won't have to worry about any leaks for years". I noticed that back by the propane tank on the dogleg of the Dolphin, the siding had pulled away from the channel and the Dicor just wasn't going to hold it together. So using a technique that I developed while living in an old trailer, I tried this fix. A narrow strip of aluminum foil to initially bridge the gap, several pieces of Gorilla Tape to give it some body, and topped off with aluminum foil tape. I added some extra pieces of aluminum foil tape down in the channels to make sure it was sealed. If you ever tried to get this aluminum foil tape off, well it's pretty danged sticky. I figured if you got a leak, you got to fix it now. Worry about doing it right later. I added some dots of reflective tape to gussy it up a bit. We'll see how long it lasts.
  10. I am the proud but nearly defeated owner of a 1983 mini cruiser that was gifted to me by a dear friend. I live in it full time but it has a laundry list of issues and I can't even figure out where to start. Both tanks are cracked and leaking. The black tank ranks as hopeless. The water heater disintegrated. The cabover leaks like a sieve and is rotted through and through. The A/C drips water constantly when it runs. I don't even know if the (scary-looking) furnace or the stove work because we never got to pressure test the LP system. The repair guy who gave it a going over just shook his head and told me it would be best to wait until some of the other difficulties were tackled. Crazy as it seems, I love this thing even though I think it's trying to kill me. I have read through numerous posts here and am awed by your collective knowledge and mad repair skills. My budget says I can't pay someone to make magic happen and my pride says I can do it myself. But my voice of reason says I need help since I have no indoor work area and limited tools available. I have searched all kinds of places to find replacement tanks. There are none that match the dimensions on the original tanks. Is there a commonly used alternative? What size water heater do I need? I am inclined to think a Suburban or Atwood 6 gallon tank is appropriate but I have not had time to measure thoroughly. Do I need to replace the door to match the water heater brand or will the one that is there do the job? The electrical system is confounding to me in all kinds of ways. There are two sets of outlets - one black framed that only work with shore power, one set ivory framed that run from the battery. I set off the inverter (1800W, I believe but I'm not in front of it right now) immediately if I plug anything in that isn't a laptop charger, more or less. It's really frustrating. I have one coach battery that I replaced when I got the Eaglet last year. The one that was in it was cooking right under where I was sleeping. That was fun, too ;-) Where would you start with everything that needs to be done?
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